farmersamm
Well-known Member
This is an offshoot of the Van Sickle paint post up in Tractor/Farm Talk.
Despite skepticism............a properly done expanded metal underlay on a stock trailer floor is quite successful if properly done.
Think of a steel floor like a snare drum. The drum head takes a lot of abuse because it's tight, AND SUPPORTED BY MANY POINTS AROUND THE RADIUS.
Expanded metal, when welded every few inches around each perimeter within a given area, or welded at every diamond shape, will form an extremely rugged drum head..................and won't suck into the gap........making it suitable for the live load that hooves present.
When I do a steel floor, either on one of my builds, or an old trailer...............I operate with the same principle.
Many small welds around the perimeter. Never use large welds.
And..........I first pre-stress the trailer by bowing it to a slight degree. Jacking it up at the midpoint from the bottom to create the bow. Because I'm only welding on one side of the beam/structure I have a heat imbalance. The floor will want to contract as the welds cool.........causing the entire trailer to bow. Pre bowing it in the opposite direction alleviates this tendency.
Under floor welds are done in the same manner. A large number of very small welds. These small welds prevent the floor plate from sucking into the gap when loaded heavily.................like you see on a lot of poorly made trailers.........they look like roller coasters. And by keeping the welds small, you won't create dips in your newly welded floor.
By following this procedure, you can turn out a very nice, flat, floor.
When welding.......heat, while you need it, can be your enemy. If you learn how to control it, you can beat the problems.
Despite skepticism............a properly done expanded metal underlay on a stock trailer floor is quite successful if properly done.
Think of a steel floor like a snare drum. The drum head takes a lot of abuse because it's tight, AND SUPPORTED BY MANY POINTS AROUND THE RADIUS.
Expanded metal, when welded every few inches around each perimeter within a given area, or welded at every diamond shape, will form an extremely rugged drum head..................and won't suck into the gap........making it suitable for the live load that hooves present.
When I do a steel floor, either on one of my builds, or an old trailer...............I operate with the same principle.
Many small welds around the perimeter. Never use large welds.
And..........I first pre-stress the trailer by bowing it to a slight degree. Jacking it up at the midpoint from the bottom to create the bow. Because I'm only welding on one side of the beam/structure I have a heat imbalance. The floor will want to contract as the welds cool.........causing the entire trailer to bow. Pre bowing it in the opposite direction alleviates this tendency.
Under floor welds are done in the same manner. A large number of very small welds. These small welds prevent the floor plate from sucking into the gap when loaded heavily.................like you see on a lot of poorly made trailers.........they look like roller coasters. And by keeping the welds small, you won't create dips in your newly welded floor.
By following this procedure, you can turn out a very nice, flat, floor.
When welding.......heat, while you need it, can be your enemy. If you learn how to control it, you can beat the problems.
