'47 Cub governor adjustment advice

Here is an example of governor inspection and repair to look over if you want.
I see that the intent was there to repair weight hud with braze , but also see that the bores and alignment is questionable and this cause the weights fly out and rub the housing.
helpful video of repairs
 
Did the same guy who marked the Super C flywheels mark the idler gear on these engines ? It looks like barely a scratch on the front side of the gear.
The governor alignment dot is on the back of the gear. You have to remove the distributor and the oil seal to see it. That's about the stupidest design flaw on a Cub. We find the front door and count gear "valleys" around to the correct place,saves pulling the distributor and seal.....the seal gets damaged, gotta buy a new one, whole new bag of worms 😂🤬.
 
@560Dennis
Thanks for the instructions and the video but I'm beyond that point. The issue for me is what can be repaired and what is too far gone, which they never seem to talk about. At some point fixing stuff is just for the fun of it. I'm thinking I'll chuck the weight carrier in my lathe and see if I can bore an oversized hole in the middle of it.

@grandpa Love
I did find the punch mark on the back of the gear. Thanks. It does line up with what might be a mark on the front. Those are some of the most useless timing marks.

The tractor starts and runs and has some actual throttle response. The timing is a little off, 18-20° at high idle. I'm going to wait for it to cool off a little before I reset that. The high idle speed sounds a little slow but I'll have to get the PTO working before resetting that. I&T manual helpfully lists the PTO speed at high idle...
 
My mistake. It is the belt pulley speed. I guess you do see what you want to see...

The I&T and the IH manuals have different methods for setting the length of the gov to carb linkage.
I&T says to set the operator's speed control to wide open and push the lever on the rockshaft towards the carb and push the linkage to open the throttle plate. Adjust the clevis so the pin sildes in.
IH says to set the speed control lever to about half throttle, hold the carb throttle plate at WOT and adjust the linkage so the pin fits. Then lengthen the linkage by one turn. The difference appears to be that the rockshaft lever is where ever it is when you fit the pin.

Which method do you like for syncing the carb and the governor to minimize surging ?
 
Once you push the control lever half way, I don't think it matters how much more you push it. There will still be tension on the governor spring. I push it all the way as the maximum tension may help make sure all the moving parts have moved to their limit. When fitting the pin, I try to make sure all the slack/wear in those parts is taken up, in other words that the linkage is as long as possible while the pin can still be inserted. The lengthening by one turn is the quick way of getting about the same.
 
My mistake. It is the belt pulley speed. I guess you do see what you want to see...

The I&T and the IH manuals have different methods for setting the length of the gov to carb linkage.
I&T says to set the operator's speed control to wide open and push the lever on the rockshaft towards the carb and push the linkage to open the throttle plate. Adjust the clevis so the pin sildes in.
IH says to set the speed control lever to about half throttle, hold the carb throttle plate at WOT and adjust the linkage so the pin fits. Then lengthen the linkage by one turn. The difference appears to be that the rockshaft lever is where ever it is when you fit the pin.

Which method do you like for syncing the carb and the governor to minimize surging ?
Which method? Trial and error..... sometimes parts are worn a little and you can't just set it to factory spec 😔. We do wide open and then adjust back and forth as needed. No two are the same. .......stuff is much easier to figure out and repair when you have a bunch of tractors and you can compare them. For example, several years ago we couldn't get an A throttle adjusted correctly,no matter what we did. Started comparing parts to a couple other As..... found the issue,the steering column was bent slightly forward, affecting the length of the rod to the governor. We also discovered that someone had added a few bends or kinks in that rod to make it "fit". It would have been impossible to tell that if we didn't have another one or two to compare it to. Swapped steering columns and rod, problem solved 😎
 
Ha ! That's why I never take both brakes apart at the same time.

This seems like a perky little tractor when the governor works. Thanks to everyone for all the help. Now I've got to work it a bit.
 
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