Mini split heat pump????????

atlarge54

Member
Considering replacing a central A/C system with a new mini split system. I don't really want to go el cheapo and want a good warranty on a quality unit. At my age (75) I don't want to worry about repair/replace issues.

Any sparkies have tips on providing surge protection for one? I have Square D QO breakers.

What real life experience can you provide? How valuable is a high SEER rating? The A/C load on the unit will be rather light and using it on the heat side will be optional.
 
Considering replacing a central A/C system with a new mini split system. I don't really want to go el cheapo and want a good warranty on a quality unit. At my age (75) I don't want to worry about repair/replace issues.

Any sparkies have tips on providing surge protection for one? I have Square D QO breakers.

What real life experience can you provide? How valuable is a high SEER rating? The A/C load on the unit will be rather light and using it on the heat side will be optional.
I will be watching this.
I want to go Mini Splits for our house.
 
There is nuttin to installed a mini split if you can do automotive air you can do a mini split. I was talking to my HVAC guy today about putting one in my cousin small man cave. He said you could get them pre charged now hook it up and flip the switch. At this time we are looking at a 9000 with heat he is going to get me a price from a local HVAC store tomorrow.

Google mini splits that come pre charged
 
I have an 18K unit. About a year old, Pioneer brand, bought from Parker-Davis. It replaced a 12k unit that was just too small for the area, but worked well for a couple of years. Both were self-installed with no problem.

But, a few days after the first on was started up the inside blower motor failed. I called the seller and they sent a new motor without any issues, even though it was not installed by a 'pro'. That is why the second was bought from the same place. There is a one year parts warranty if self done, register the unit with a pro installer's ID and get a 5 year.

The second one went it really quickly since all the wiring etc was already in place. One short afternoons work and it was running. Just connect the lines and electric, vacuum the inside unit and line set, confirm no leaks and open the valves.

Every maker only provides a parts warranty only. And at today's labor rates that is the biggest part of a repair call. So there is little value in
the added cost of the big names in the business. You're still going to face a big bill to replace any major part. Better to source a complete replacement of a cheaper unit if dealing with 24K and smaller.

I compared pricing of Mitsubishi, the best in most opinions, with my choice. Went with this one at less than 25% of a Mitsubishi installed.

Just my experience and opinion.
 
Considering replacing a central A/C system with a new mini split system. I don't really want to go el cheapo and want a good warranty on a quality unit. At my age (75) I don't want to worry about repair/replace issues.

Any sparkies have tips on providing surge protection for one? I have Square D QO breakers.

What real life experience can you provide? How valuable is a high SEER rating? The A/C load on the unit will be rather light and using it on the heat side will be optional.
Mini-spit market,service,repair and installation is a forest to say the least. I have decades of hvac experience but no longer physically able to do much. I've set in a chair supervising guys with zero experience to install single head units in 5 to 7 hours. Pros around here want $1400 to $3200 labor for same installs. Unless you find a solid recommendation, I think you will do ok with big box store units and installers.
If you decide to diy, we can help you out. IMO pre-charged lines are a marketing tool. Pumping down with borrowed/rented pump is not difficult if someone explains procedure. Balancing charge is where many diyers miss the mark. Actually, a fair share of techs don't know how either.
 
Don't like the one in my house. No way to really clean the mold out of the inside part of it. I have solid wood (cherry) walls if was drywall maybe wouldn't be such a big deal, but I'm not getting the wall wet to damage it. Mine has been in for nineteen years now. Haven't ran it this is second summer. If I had central air I don't think I would even consider a split unit to replace it. Just my two cents.

I did try cleaning it once. Put plastic on wall around it and worked very carefully, collected used water in buckets (plastic shielding made into a funnel at the bottom). Only partially successful after two days of cleaning.
 
Don't like the one in my house. No way to really clean the mold out of the inside part of it. I have solid wood (cherry) walls if was drywall maybe wouldn't be such a big deal, but I'm not getting the wall wet to damage it. Mine has been in for nineteen years now. Haven't ran it this is second summer. If I had central air I don't think I would even consider a split unit to replace it. Just my two cents.

I did try cleaning it once. Put plastic on wall around it and worked very carefully, collected used water in buckets (plastic shielding made into a funnel at the bottom). Only partially successful after two days of cleaning.
I hear you when you say you wouldn't buy another but since you already have one, maybe you can get it back operational. Misting mold with chlorine normally kills it and residual chlorine on surface prevents new growth. No Rinse evaporator coil cleaner also does a good job killing mold. The biggest problem with no rinse is clogged condensate drain from sudden influx of trash coming off coil. Temporarily directing condensate through short hose into a container for first 48 hours and/or while rinsing makes it less likely to clog. I've rinsed hundreds of coils with garden sprayer and letting drain pan handle run-off. No conversation about coil cleaning is complete without caution regarding acid cleaners intended for OUTDOOR CONDENSER. I recommend only using acid cleaner on condensers after training and never using acid cleaners on evaporators.
 
First question is what's wrong with your current hvac system?

If its just the equipment an not the ductwork id push towards just replacing the existing equipment if you called me out

Sounds like energy savings isn't an issue if you say light load on ac and heat is optional
 
Balancing charge is where many diyers miss the mark. Actually, a fair share of techs don't know how either.
There is no balancing the charge on mini split systems so its even worse that "techs" cant get the charge correct

Sad state of affairs the hacked up stuff we come across all the time
 
Considering replacing a central A/C system with a new mini split system. I don't really want to go el cheapo and want a good warranty on a quality unit. At my age (75) I don't want to worry about repair/replace issues.

Any sparkies have tips on providing surge protection for one? I have Square D QO breakers.

What real life experience can you provide? How valuable is a high SEER rating? The A/C load on the unit will be rather light and using it on the heat side will be optional.
You put this on the cut off box - Intermatic-AG3000


I have a total of 4 heat pump multizone units in 2 old houses. I bought them, installed them and ran the copper and had a HVAC guy connect the lines. I have no warranty for that reason. Maybe I saved half. I bought Fredrich Floating Air Pro because they are the only ones that are made so you can easily drop the blower wheel assembly out of the unit to clean it thoroughly (take it outside). This also gives you access to the coils. Dirty fan kills minisplits and they build up yuck pretty regularly. More in some areas than others. I don't think they work as well for heat in cold parts of the country.

I really like mine.
 
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