Mini split heat pump????????

[atlarge54]

Considering replacing a central A/C system with a new mini split system. I don't really want to go el cheapo and want a good warranty on a quality unit. At my age (75) I don't want to worry about repair/replace issues.

Any sparkies have tips on providing surge protection for one? I have Square D QO breakers.

What real life experience can you provide? How valuable is a high SEER rating? The A/C load on the unit will be rather light and using it on the heat side will be optional.

 

[Richard G.]

Considering replacing a central A/C system with a new mini split system. I don't really want to go el cheapo and want a good warranty on a quality unit. At my age (75) I don't want to worry about repair/replace issues.

Any sparkies have tips on providing surge protection for one? I have Square D QO breakers.

What real life experience can you provide? How valuable is a high SEER rating? The A/C load on the unit will be rather light and using it on the heat side will be optional.

I will be watching this.
I want to go Mini Splits for our house.

 

[Hobo,NC]

There is nuttin to installed a mini split if you can do automotive air you can do a mini split. I was talking to my HVAC guy today about putting one in my cousin small man cave. He said you could get them pre charged now hook it up and flip the switch. At this time we are looking at a 9000 with heat he is going to get me a price from a local HVAC store tomorrow.

Google mini splits that come pre charged

 

[kencombs]

I have an 18K unit. About a year old, Pioneer brand, bought from Parker-Davis. It replaced a 12k unit that was just too small for the area, but worked well for a couple of years. Both were self-installed with no problem.

But, a few days after the first on was started up the inside blower motor failed. I called the seller and they sent a new motor without any issues, even though it was not installed by a 'pro'. That is why the second was bought from the same place. There is a one year parts warranty if self done, register the unit with a pro installer's ID and get a 5 year.

The second one went it really quickly since all the wiring etc was already in place. One short afternoons work and it was running. Just connect the lines and electric, vacuum the inside unit and line set, confirm no leaks and open the valves.

Every maker only provides a parts warranty only. And at today's labor rates that is the biggest part of a repair call. So there is little value in
the added cost of the big names in the business. You're still going to face a big bill to replace any major part. Better to source a complete replacement of a cheaper unit if dealing with 24K and smaller.

I compared pricing of Mitsubishi, the best in most opinions, with my choice. Went with this one at less than 25% of a Mitsubishi installed.

Just my experience and opinion.

 

[da.bees]

Considering replacing a central A/C system with a new mini split system. I don't really want to go el cheapo and want a good warranty on a quality unit. At my age (75) I don't want to worry about repair/replace issues.

Any sparkies have tips on providing surge protection for one? I have Square D QO breakers.

What real life experience can you provide? How valuable is a high SEER rating? The A/C load on the unit will be rather light and using it on the heat side will be optional.

Mini-spit market,service,repair and installation is a forest to say the least. I have decades of hvac experience but no longer physically able to do much. I've set in a chair supervising guys with zero experience to install single head units in 5 to 7 hours. Pros around here want $1400 to $3200 labor for same installs. Unless you find a solid recommendation, I think you will do ok with big box store units and installers.
If you decide to diy, we can help you out. IMO pre-charged lines are a marketing tool. Pumping down with borrowed/rented pump is not difficult if someone explains procedure. Balancing charge is where many diyers miss the mark. Actually, a fair share of techs don't know how either.

 

[Paul swpa]

Don't like the one in my house. No way to really clean the mold out of the inside part of it. I have solid wood (cherry) walls if was drywall maybe wouldn't be such a big deal, but I'm not getting the wall wet to damage it. Mine has been in for nineteen years now. Haven't ran it this is second summer. If I had central air I don't think I would even consider a split unit to replace it. Just my two cents.

I did try cleaning it once. Put plastic on wall around it and worked very carefully, collected used water in buckets (plastic shielding made into a funnel at the bottom). Only partially successful after two days of cleaning.

 

[da.bees]

Don't like the one in my house. No way to really clean the mold out of the inside part of it. I have solid wood (cherry) walls if was drywall maybe wouldn't be such a big deal, but I'm not getting the wall wet to damage it. Mine has been in for nineteen years now. Haven't ran it this is second summer. If I had central air I don't think I would even consider a split unit to replace it. Just my two cents.

I did try cleaning it once. Put plastic on wall around it and worked very carefully, collected used water in buckets (plastic shielding made into a funnel at the bottom). Only partially successful after two days of cleaning.

I hear you when you say you wouldn't buy another but since you already have one, maybe you can get it back operational. Misting mold with chlorine normally kills it and residual chlorine on surface prevents new growth. No Rinse evaporator coil cleaner also does a good job killing mold. The biggest problem with no rinse is clogged condensate drain from sudden influx of trash coming off coil. Temporarily directing condensate through short hose into a container for first 48 hours and/or while rinsing makes it less likely to clog. I've rinsed hundreds of coils with garden sprayer and letting drain pan handle run-off. No conversation about coil cleaning is complete without caution regarding acid cleaners intended for OUTDOOR CONDENSER. I recommend only using acid cleaner on condensers after training and never using acid cleaners on evaporators.

 

[joeysmith]

First question is what's wrong with your current hvac system?

If its just the equipment an not the ductwork id push towards just replacing the existing equipment if you called me out

Sounds like energy savings isn't an issue if you say light load on ac and heat is optional

 

[joeysmith]

Balancing charge is where many diyers miss the mark. Actually, a fair share of techs don't know how either.

There is no balancing the charge on mini split systems so its even worse that "techs" cant get the charge correct

Sad state of affairs the hacked up stuff we come across all the time

 

[da.bees]

There is no balancing the charge on mini split systems so its even worse that "techs" cant get the charge correct

Sad state of affairs the hacked up stuff we come across all the time

I don't follow you.

 

[joeysmith]

I don't follow you.

Mini splits are a strictly weighed in charge.
You can kina fudge around with pressures an temps bit its not the correct way to charge one

 

[MM-TX]

Considering replacing a central A/C system with a new mini split system. I don't really want to go el cheapo and want a good warranty on a quality unit. At my age (75) I don't want to worry about repair/replace issues.

Any sparkies have tips on providing surge protection for one? I have Square D QO breakers.

What real life experience can you provide? How valuable is a high SEER rating? The A/C load on the unit will be rather light and using it on the heat side will be optional.

You put this on the cut off box - Intermatic-AG3000

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Intermatic-AG3000-1-Phase-Types-1-2-SPD-Protection-AC-Surge-Protector-120-240V?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=Shopping_Electrical&utm_campaign=Shopping_X_Electrical_X_SSC_New&utm_campaignid=22402706596&utm_adgroupid=175772922365&utm_targetid=pla-2465212573324&utm_product_id=AG3000&utm_matchtype=&utm_keyword=&utm_adtype=pla&utm_category=Electrical&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22402706596&gclid=CjwKCAjwmozTBhAeEiwAkEGZzlPt3Ds5_lvhyVXokDopUi0v4o5lcMv37aNLYdspz_IOLTpMk-mICBoC1OsQAvD_BwE

I have a total of 4 heat pump multizone units in 2 old houses. I bought them, installed them and ran the copper and had a HVAC guy connect the lines. I have no warranty for that reason. Maybe I saved half. I bought Fredrich Floating Air Pro because they are the only ones that are made so you can easily drop the blower wheel assembly out of the unit to clean it thoroughly (take it outside). This also gives you access to the coils. Dirty fan kills minisplits and they build up yuck pretty regularly. More in some areas than others. I don't think they work as well for heat in cold parts of the country.

I really like mine.

 

[Paul swpa]

I hear you when you say you wouldn't buy another but since you already have one, maybe you can get it back operational. Misting mold with chlorine normally kills it and residual chlorine on surface prevents new growth. No Rinse evaporator coil cleaner also does a good job killing mold. The biggest problem with no rinse is clogged condensate drain from sudden influx of trash coming off coil. Temporarily directing condensate through short hose into a container for first 48 hours and/or while rinsing makes it less likely to clog. I've rinsed hundreds of coils with garden sprayer and letting drain pan handle run-off. No conversation about coil cleaning is complete without caution regarding acid cleaners intended for OUTDOOR CONDENSER. I recommend only using acid cleaner on condensers after training and never using acid cleaners on evaporators.

That's what I did, used a (new/clean) garden sprayer. Coils were pretty easy, the fan is the problem. Fan is hidden so deep can't really get to it. One like MM-TX has where fan is removable for cleaning might have me thinking differently than I do with what I have.

 

[Randyscottsboro]

I have a total of 5 unit in 2 different houses. Been using 2 of them for 12 years and would never go back to central unit again. 3 units are newer with higher seer ratings and it shows in power usage and heating. They heat at a much lower ambient temp. I installed them myself and had a a/c guy check off on the install and warranty card.

 

[MarkB_MI]

I put a two-head Mitsubishi mini-split in our house about 15 years ago and it has worked great. Central air wasn't an option because our quad-level house has hydronic heat, so there's no ducting and no place to put ducting. It's quite and seems to be pretty efficient. You do have to clean them regularly, which is not the easiest thing to do. Most mini-splits have a pretty high SEER, but higher is better since the higher the SEER the cheaper they are to operate.

I did the installation myself with a little help from my electrician son. You'll need a vacuum pump to evacuate the lines, then you just open valves on the outside unit to charge the llines. The unit is pre-charged for up to a certain line length; if your lines are longer than that you'll have to add more refrigerant.

You'll need a GOOD flaring tool, such as the Ridgid 377, as the lines are pretty thick. I also recommend buying a micron gauge to ensure you're getting a good vacuum. I found that I couldn't pull a good vacuum with hoses; I had to use straight copper tubing between the pump and air conditioner, with a micron gauge teed into the line. If I did it again, I would pick up a bottle of Nylog, which is a sealant intended for refrigeration flare fittings.

Note that R410 units are no longer made. New production will be R32 and any R410 units will have been made prior to 2026

 

[atlarge54]

First question is what's wrong with your current hvac system?

If its just the equipment an not the ductwork id push towards just replacing the existing equipment if you called me out

Sounds like energy savings isn't an issue if you say light load on ac and heat is optional

Current system is 35 years old. 60,000 BTU NG Bard forced air (90%+) furnace, the A/C A-coil is original, the original condenser was replaced about 20 years ago. I believe the condenser is an off brand 24,000 BTU and the A-coil has a restrictor orifice to reduce capacity to 18,000 BTU. About a month ago the breaker for the condenser tripped. The A/C has been working fine ever since.

 

[MarkB_MI]

Mini splits are a strictly weighed in charge.
You can kina fudge around with pressures an temps bit its not the correct way to charge one

They come precharged with enough refrigerant for a given line length. Additional refrigerant is added only if that length is exceeded.

 

[joeysmith]

Current system is 35 years old. 60,000 BTU NG Bard forced air (90%+) furnace, the A/C A-coil is original, the original condenser was replaced about 20 years ago. I believe the condenser is an off brand 24,000 BTU and the A-coil has a restrictor orifice to reduce capacity to 18,000 BTU. About a month ago the breaker for the condenser tripped. The A/C has been working fine ever since.

I would still recommend replacing your existing equipment if you called us to come look at your setup

 

[MM-TX]

Current system is 35 years old. 60,000 BTU NG Bard forced air (90%+) furnace, the A/C A-coil is original, the original condenser was replaced about 20 years ago. I believe the condenser is an off brand 24,000 BTU and the A-coil has a restrictor orifice to reduce capacity to 18,000 BTU. About a month ago the breaker for the condenser tripped. The A/C has been working fine ever since.

Some things to consider do you feel you need a head unit in every room? How big is your house? Is it one story? Are you looking at one multizone or two?

My 2 story has 2 24K outside units with 5 head units. Old, large shotgun house. Downstairs is all open with 2 1200K heads, one front and back. Upstairs has 4 BR and 2 bath. Master BR is huge with 1800K head , 2 BR each have 9000 head and one seldom used BR has none. Because of it's location it would have required it's own outside unit on a porch I didn't want to look at it anyway. It's probably under spec'd for the house but I did that on purpose. Equipment cost less and It is very comfortable and economical for us. But we don't require it to be cold or toasty just comfortable. Wife keeps them at set 79 degrees we have ceiling fans in every room.

Country house has big rooms and tall ceilings lots of original leaky windows. It does have 9-12 inches of insulation in the attic. It has ceiling fans in every room. It has 2 24K outside units with 6 head units. 12K heads in kitchen, entry-dining and big living room. 9K heads in 3 BRs. None in bathrooms. I had to put one of the outside units where I didn't want to look at it, but I'm used to it now. One of the BRs I had to run a long line under the house to reach. This system is also a little undersized. We leave it off when not there and it cools down and stays comfortable quickly.

My houses never had any AC and I really like the mini splits. That doesn't mean they have been without some issues and some learning how to keep them clean.
I would guess since you already have a central system replacing it with a modern central system by a good installer would be a lot cheaper and work better than what you had.

 

[atlarge54]

Some things to consider do you feel you need a head unit in every room? How big is your house? Is it one story? Are you looking at one multizone or two?

My 2 story has 2 24K outside units with 5 head units. Old, large shotgun house. Downstairs is all open with 2 1200K heads, one front and back. Upstairs has 4 BR and 2 bath. Master BR is huge with 1800K head , 2 BR each have 9000 head and one seldom used BR has none. Because of it's location it would have required it's own outside unit on a porch I didn't want to look at it anyway. It's probably under spec'd for the house but I did that on purpose. Equipment cost less and It is very comfortable and economical for us. But we don't require it to be cold or toasty just comfortable. Wife keeps them at set 79 degrees we have ceiling fans in every room.

Country house has big rooms and tall ceilings lots of original leaky windows. It does have 9-12 inches of insulation in the attic. It has ceiling fans in every room. It has 2 24K outside units with 6 head units. 12K heads in kitchen, entry-dining and big living room. 9K heads in 3 BRs. None in bathrooms. I had to put one of the outside units where I didn't want to look at it, but I'm used to it now. One of the BRs I had to run a long line under the house to reach. This system is also a little undersized. We leave it off when not there and it cools down and stays comfortable quickly.

My houses never had any AC and I really like the mini splits. That doesn't mean they have been without some issues and some learning how to keep them clean.
I would guess since you already have a central system replacing it with a modern central system by a good installer would be a lot cheaper and work better than what you had.

The house is a 2 BR 1100 sq ft single story attached to a 2000 sq ft shop that has it's own heat and A/C. Side walls are R 36+ and one of the longer walls is adjacent to the shop so heat/cool loads are small.

My thoughts regarding mini split (single head) were to leave the original system in place and if something failed I could fall back on the mini split for heat and A/C using the blower on the existing system wired up for low blower speed.