Tractor Rim Question

Fawteen

Well-known Member
Location
Downeast Maine
Bought a replacement 10x28 loop-mount rim for customer's 8N Ford. Didn't notice at the time that the valve stem hole was on the loop side of the rim, where the old rim has the valve stem on the opposite side.

Having the valve stem on the loop side (which is the inside of the rim) is a no-go as it will interfere with the rim weights.

Is there any reason I can't weld that up (paying particular attention to getting the tube side nice and smooth) and drill a new valve stem hole on the opposite side?

I went back and looked and most - if not all - of the available replacement rims have the valve stem hole on the loop side.
 
  • Like
Reactions: wh
Bought a replacement 10x28 loop-mount rim for customer's 8N Ford. Didn't notice at the time that the valve stem hole was on the loop side of the rim, where the old rim has the valve stem on the opposite side.

Having the valve stem on the loop side (which is the inside of the rim) is a no-go as it will interfere with the rim weights.

Is there any reason I can't weld that up (paying particular attention to getting the tube side nice and smooth) and drill a new valve stem hole on the opposite side?

I went back and looked and most - if not all - of the available replacement rims have the valve stem hole on the loop side.
I see no reason why not and stuff like that has been done. Many years ago on tailer wheels we drilled a hole tapped it and installed a grease fitting. Of course some people said it could not be done.
 
I see no reason why not and stuff like that has been done. Many years ago on tailer wheels we drilled a hole tapped it and installed a grease fitting. Of course some people said it could not be done.
Drilled and tapped a hole in a wheel then installed a grease fitting in it? Why would a wheel (rim) need a grease fitting in it?

Maybe you did that to a hub to lube bearings with a grease gun?

Bought a replacement 10x28 loop-mount rim for customer's 8N Ford. Didn't notice at the time that the valve stem hole was on the loop side of the rim, where the old rim has the valve stem on the opposite side.

Having the valve stem on the loop side (which is the inside of the rim) is a no-go as it will interfere with the rim weights.

Is there any reason I can't weld that up (paying particular attention to getting the tube side nice and smooth) and drill a new valve stem hole on the opposite side?

I went back and looked and most - if not all - of the available replacement rims have the valve stem hole on the loop side.
Go for it. I have made weld repairs to a number of tractor and implement rims by welding in patches and moving the hole for the tube stem. You are correct, just be sure the area is smooth when you are done and chamfer the edges of the stem hole a bit as well.

If you are getting a new tube, get a radial one, they are much better than the bias tubes these days.
 
Bought a replacement 10x28 loop-mount rim for customer's 8N Ford. Didn't notice at the time that the valve stem hole was on the loop side of the rim, where the old rim has the valve stem on the opposite side.

Having the valve stem on the loop side (which is the inside of the rim) is a no-go as it will interfere with the rim weights.

Is there any reason I can't weld that up (paying particular attention to getting the tube side nice and smooth) and drill a new valve stem hole on the opposite side?

I went back and looked and most - if not all - of the available replacement rims have the valve stem hole on the loop side.
I had to go look as I had a new set of rims put on some tires 20 years ago I never got them put on. I got lucky the valve stem is opposite the loop side. Weld it up prime with epoxy primer and paint with single stage urethane : )
 
Drilled and tapped a hole in a wheel then installed a grease fitting in it? Why would a wheel (rim) need a grease fitting in it?

Maybe you did that to a hub to lube bearings with a grease gun?


Go for it. I have made weld repairs to a number of tractor and implement rims by welding in patches and moving the hole for the tube stem. You are correct, just be sure the area is smooth when you are done and chamfer the edges of the stem hole a bit as well.

If you are getting a new tube, get a radial one, they are much better than the bias tubes these days.
Yes it was the hub
 
I've done that before. Weld up and move the valve stem hole. The rim is for a tractor, not a race car. If the weights have a notch for the valve stem, put it where you need it.
 
You can get plugs for the valve stem hole as well. I have seen both rubber and brass. Some of the larger rim sizes have holes on both sides. You use the one you want and plug the other one. Pic is just the first one that came up.
. IMG_3172.png
 
1.jpg


Modified the rim this morning. Went pretty well. Original idea to use the mag drill and an annular cutter didn't work as I couldn't figure out a way to secure the drill.

2.jpg


So I center punched the location, started with a 1/8 drill bit and then used a step drill to take it out to about 9/16 to match both the original hole and the hole in the bad rim.

3.jpg


Welded up the original hole using a punch-out circle on the top side and plug-welding the back side, then ground it all smooth with a flap disk.

4.jpg


A little spritz of Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer, and

5.jpg


A cover coat of Rustoleum Silver Metallic. Close enough, the rim as received was pretty rough and the rest of the tractor is rougher yet.
 
I think I would have gone back a little farther from the bead, but that's just me. I've fixed tires on three tractors where the stem was on the inside in just the past month, and getting the stem in with the hole back and inch or so from the bead was still a royal pain.
 
I think I would have gone back a little farther from the bead, but that's just me. I've fixed tires on three tractors where the stem was on the inside in just the past month, and getting the stem in with the hole back and inch or so from the bead was still a royal pain.

I generously powder the inside of the tire, get one bead on the rim, install the tube, run one of these stem puller guides through the stem hole and attach it to the stem so the stem can lay out of the way, install the second bead on the rim, and pull the stem up into place. You can put the stem nut on the puller before you put the end through the rim hole then the nut is there to thread onto the stem to hold it in the rim hole while you hold it with the puller.
 

Attachments

  • s-447-1main.jpg
    s-447-1main.jpg
    37.5 KB · Views: 0
I think I would have gone back a little farther from the bead, but that's just me. I've fixed tires on three tractors where the stem was on the inside in just the past month, and getting the stem in with the hole back and inch or so from the bead was still a royal pain.
I based that on the placement of the hole in the old rim.
 
If you wanted to reinforce it, you could weld a flat washer over the hole on the outside and weld it in place. If you can stand the extra thickness.
 
Yesterday's Tractor Forums

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top