Help with Farmall H. (fixup stuff)

[Brian Ski]

Well, kind of looking for a friend to kick over ideas.

My son has a Farmall H that he picked up a while back. We had it running a few years ago. He moved and it got dropped off at my house. Left brake actuator shaft was seized and locked the brake. We were able to tap on the shaft and was able to loosen it up enough to trailer it. I asked him what he wanted to do with the tractor? He said fix what you want to. I asked what is his idea for it? He said he would like to restore it. Not necessarily perfect, but to do what I can. Tin is in good shape, but covered in moss/lichen. Most decals gone. Wiring shot. It had a can over the exhaust, but rusted and got a deal of water in the oil. I am draining the water/oil now.

I am good with vehicles. I have rebuilt engines and done almost anything to a car before. Tractors are a little different. Not sure how far I want to go. I don't have any books on this tractor. Most of what I find is off the net.

Ok, plenty of questions. Lets start with a few. I can clean up the brakes, but there is a felt washer under the actuating arm. Is it necessary? I don't see a part #. One cover was rusty inside. (the one that was frozen) clean it and polish the shaft. The other cover had some oil in it. So thinking of replacing the seals on both sides. I heard they can get water in the differential (from sitting) and raise the oil level to make it leak. Right cover had gasket sealer, and it is fine. Left did not and had the water in it. So was planning on sealing them.

Left rear axle seal is leaking. Water in oil and pushing against seal??? Ideas.

He wants to paint it... Is this a complete tear down?? Or clean up and paint?? What is the norm? brush or spray?

 

[Brian Ski]

I am going to start with fixing the brakes

Then an oil change, carburetor cleaning, air filter oil cleaning, enough wiring to get it to turn over and do a compression check. Ideas on good compression? I hate to tear down engine... But if I have to....

Then next he wanted to go 12 volt positive ground. Then electronic ignition. Yeah I know the purists are all rolling over.

Is there anything on here about fluid checks? Hydraulic, rear end, steering? Guessing the metal cylinder is some kind of filter.

I don't want to get the cart in front of the horse.

 

[Brian Ski]

This is the axle seal drip.

 

[Brian Ski]

One more thing before I give you guys a break...

What is this tube on the exhaust manifold. Not a lot of it left. Is it needed?

 

[lodoc]

What is this tube on the exhaust manifold.

Wild guess... If you turn it and moves some type of 'flapper valve' is it missing the bimetal? Ties into warm up mechanism?

 

[Absent Minded Farmer]

One more thing before I give you guys a break...

What is this tube on the exhaust manifold. Not a lot of it left. Is it needed?
View attachment 158834

That's the temperature lever for distillate or kerosene operation. It's of little use if you are running gas.

Mike

 

[used red MN]

It had a can over the exhaust, but rusted and got a deal of water in the oil. I am draining the water/oil now.

Number one in my book would be does the engine turn? Put it in neutral and grab the fan to try and turn it. Add extra tension to the non pulling side of the belt with your free hand. Or put it in 5th gear and shove back an forth on the top of the rear tires watching the fan to see if it turns. A Farmall plus water down exhaust almost always equals at least one or two pistons rusted tight in their bores.

 

[560Dennis]

Open the drains on the rear differential and get the water out of it( if any) . Use a heavy wire bottle brush ,plastic drop cloth and , five gallon pails to catch the sludge. 75 year old tractor go into a lot of sludge . You’re going to get dirty so be prepared. I let drain a couple of days .then I put some kerosene or diesel in it and drive it around to clean good let it set and drive it again after couple of days , I have hills in my yard to sloshing kerosene it around. up to you I’d you want to find all the leaks with the kerosene will that way .don't want oil leaking any where on nice painted tractor . Also I use a flexible magnet to probe the bottom of the differential casting to get all the foreign metal, gear teeth ,wire , pins, factory floor sweeping that may be inside. This is a must do for me. Never know what you’re going to find .post photos of what you find .
If satisfied, change all leaking seals , then fill it back up with SAE 90 weight gl1 oil . That way you got the right oil in there . Good project ,keep us posted.

 

[D Slater]

If up for a project go for it. Money wise it's cheaper to Purchase a running operating H that transmission, engine and other stuff let you determine condition.

 

[SadFarmall]

I would purchase an owner's manual and parts catalogue - easy to find reprints or originals. Exploded diagrams really help.
SadFarmall

 

[Brian Ski]

Wild guess... If you turn it and moves some type of 'flapper valve' is it missing the bimetal? Ties into warm up mechanism?

Could be, but it is rusted. Any attempt to mess with it and it will crumble. At least the steel bolt part.

Looks like this got hung up and not posted... But from posts above sounds like not needed.

 

[Powered By IH]

Well, kind of looking for a friend to kick over ideas.

My son has a Farmall H that he picked up a while back. We had it running a few years ago. He moved and it got dropped off at my house. Left brake actuator shaft was seized and locked the brake. We were able to tap on the shaft and was able to loosen it up enough to trailer it. I asked him what he wanted to do with the tractor? He said fix what you want to. I asked what is his idea for it? He said he would like to restore it. Not necessarily perfect, but to do what I can. Tin is in good shape, but covered in moss/lichen. Most decals gone. Wiring shot. It had a can over the exhaust, but rusted and got a deal of water in the oil. I am draining the water/oil now.

I am good with vehicles. I have rebuilt engines and done almost anything to a car before. Tractors are a little different. Not sure how far I want to go. I don't have any books on this tractor. Most of what I find is off the net.

Ok, plenty of questions. Lets start with a few. I can clean up the brakes, but there is a felt washer under the actuating arm. Is it necessary? I don't see a part #. One cover was rusty inside. (the one that was frozen) clean it and polish the shaft. The other cover had some oil in it. So thinking of replacing the seals on both sides. I heard they can get water in the differential (from sitting) and raise the oil level to make it leak. Right cover had gasket sealer, and it is fine. Left did not and had the water in it. So was planning on sealing them.

Left rear axle seal is leaking. Water in oil and pushing against seal??? Ideas.

He wants to paint it... Is this a complete tear down?? Or clean up and paint?? What is the norm? brush or spray?

Hi Brian, welcome to YT!

First thing I would do is pick up an owner's manual and an I&T service manual, if you haven't already. They are very good books that provide a lot of information.

The felt washer is not necessary, however it is a big component in sealing the brakes from the outside air. It is especially important for working in dusty conditions, so that dust doesn't get into your actuating shaft and bushings and ruin them. There is no PN, but they can be easily made with a thick piece of felt.

The biggest reason those letter series Farmalls get water in the transmission is because they sit outside, and water pools on the transmission top cover and gets in through the fill plug hole and the cavities where the bolts go, since the water has no where to escape too.

It is not necessary to seal the brake covers with RTV. Just clean the surfaces up good and you will be fine as long as you keep the drain hole open in the cover and use the tractor once in a while. Yes oil in the brakes most likely means the bull pinion shaft seals are leaking, best to replace them as you said and buy new brake bands. Not that hard to do.

It is very unlikely that enough water can get into the transmission and make the axle seals leak, most likely just needs new seals. Not hard to do.

I guess it just depends on how much tearing down of the tractor he wants to do. The more effort you put it though, the better it will look. Definitely at least spray paint, the best is to use a paint gun.

See if you can get it running first. If not then do a compression test if it's needed.

He should either keep it 6 volt positive ground, or go to 12 volt negative ground for EI. I will say many H's run on 6 volt everyday still, and the ignition system is easier to service with no EI. Plus then a lot more work comes with changing the voltage.

The manifold thing is because back in the day, they burned kerosene and distillate which required a hotter engine temp. The flapper inside allowed the operator to help regulate the incoming air/fuel mix temperature for better burning. Not used with gasoline, and it can be ignored.

I would recommend eventually posting a separate thread for each question/problem you have. This makes it less confusing, and you can get better responses. Posting here is completely free, so feel free to post as many threads as you need.

Oh, and please ask questions if you have them. We are here to help you.

Good luck and keep us posted!

 

[Brian Ski]

Number one in my book would be does the engine turn?

Looks like next on the list... I am a slow mover, several things going on. I know even if free, the old machines get a lot of crap in the rings and don't hurt to tear down and clean grooves.

 

[Brian Ski]

I would recommend eventually posting a separate thread for each question/problem you have. This makes it less confusing, and you can get better responses. Posting here is completely free, so feel free to post as many threads as you need.

Oh, and please ask questions if you have them. We are here to help you.

I appreciate it... I have been a member here for a while. I just don't post a lot. This project seemed to fall into this forum.

I am thinking of hitting one problem at a time. Then you also think maybe a big tear down and reassemble. But I hate it to turn it into another project you see on all the forums, I took it all apart and never got it back together.

On the other hand I had a really nice friend, old guy who had a very beautiful restored John Deere tractor who would love to help. He just passed 6 months ago.

Thanks for the big write up. I wonder if I can find a computer file of the manuals? I like to print off what I need.

 

[Brian Ski]

Number one in my book would be does the engine turn?

Ugh... I couldn't get it to turn by hand. Pulled the plugs. One cylinder had water the rest were rusty.

So I decided to mess with it and found this... Now I never forced anything. So this was the last time it ran.

 

[used red MN]

Money wise it's cheaper to Purchase a running operating H that transmission, engine and other stuff let you determine condition.

Ugh... I couldn't get it to turn by hand. Pulled the plugs. One cylinder had water the rest were rusty.

Unless you have some emotional/family attachment to this tractor like “uncle herb bought it new” At this point the words of Mr. Slater are very worthy of consideration.

 

[Brian Ski]

Unless you have some emotional/family attachment to this tractor like “uncle herb bought it new” At this point the words of Mr. Slater are very worthy of consideration.

Sounds like good advice. I will check with my son and see what he wants to do. I know this is tough to ask. I have no idea at all. What is the range these tractors sell for??

 

[used red MN]

I have no idea at all. What is the range these tractors sell for?

Not real nice, but running, drivable and mostly all there $500 - $1,000. Condition of rear tires can effect the price quite a bit.