Help with Farmall H. (fixup stuff)

[Brian Ski]

Well, kind of looking for a friend to kick over ideas.

My son has a Farmall H that he picked up a while back. We had it running a few years ago. He moved and it got dropped off at my house. Left brake actuator shaft was seized and locked the brake. We were able to tap on the shaft and was able to loosen it up enough to trailer it. I asked him what he wanted to do with the tractor? He said fix what you want to. I asked what is his idea for it? He said he would like to restore it. Not necessarily perfect, but to do what I can. Tin is in good shape, but covered in moss/lichen. Most decals gone. Wiring shot. It had a can over the exhaust, but rusted and got a deal of water in the oil. I am draining the water/oil now.

I am good with vehicles. I have rebuilt engines and done almost anything to a car before. Tractors are a little different. Not sure how far I want to go. I don't have any books on this tractor. Most of what I find is off the net.

Ok, plenty of questions. Lets start with a few. I can clean up the brakes, but there is a felt washer under the actuating arm. Is it necessary? I don't see a part #. One cover was rusty inside. (the one that was frozen) clean it and polish the shaft. The other cover had some oil in it. So thinking of replacing the seals on both sides. I heard they can get water in the differential (from sitting) and raise the oil level to make it leak. Right cover had gasket sealer, and it is fine. Left did not and had the water in it. So was planning on sealing them.

Left rear axle seal is leaking. Water in oil and pushing against seal??? Ideas.

He wants to paint it... Is this a complete tear down?? Or clean up and paint?? What is the norm? brush or spray?

 

[Brian Ski]

I am going to start with fixing the brakes

Then an oil change, carburetor cleaning, air filter oil cleaning, enough wiring to get it to turn over and do a compression check. Ideas on good compression? I hate to tear down engine... But if I have to....

Then next he wanted to go 12 volt positive ground. Then electronic ignition. Yeah I know the purists are all rolling over.

Is there anything on here about fluid checks? Hydraulic, rear end, steering? Guessing the metal cylinder is some kind of filter.

I don't want to get the cart in front of the horse.

 

[Brian Ski]

This is the axle seal drip.

 

[Brian Ski]

One more thing before I give you guys a break...

What is this tube on the exhaust manifold. Not a lot of it left. Is it needed?

 

[lodoc]

What is this tube on the exhaust manifold.

Wild guess... If you turn it and moves some type of 'flapper valve' is it missing the bimetal? Ties into warm up mechanism?

 

[Absent Minded Farmer]

One more thing before I give you guys a break...

What is this tube on the exhaust manifold. Not a lot of it left. Is it needed?
View attachment 158834

That's the temperature lever for distillate or kerosene operation. It's of little use if you are running gas.

Mike

 

[used red MN]

It had a can over the exhaust, but rusted and got a deal of water in the oil. I am draining the water/oil now.

Number one in my book would be does the engine turn? Put it in neutral and grab the fan to try and turn it. Add extra tension to the non pulling side of the belt with your free hand. Or put it in 5th gear and shove back an forth on the top of the rear tires watching the fan to see if it turns. A Farmall plus water down exhaust almost always equals at least one or two pistons rusted tight in their bores.