JD 4030 issues

[Chevyboy454]

Goodmorning everyone, I have dug through plenty of forums and have not read much for the issue I am having, I'm new to forums so I hope im doing this right!

Customer brought me a JD 4030 late model quad range the work I recently done on it is extensive so ill explain the best I can some stuff may be out of order so I apologize

The tractor would drive in R1 R2 A3 A4 B3 B4 C3 C4 D1 D2
The tractor does not drive in A1 A2 B1 B2 C1 C2 D3 D4
PTO would not stay on

Figured it might be mechanical failure but had to do some tests first
Absolute first was to remove the screen and change the filter, retested, no change
Checked lube pressure and system pressure as well as quad range pressure between 1-2 everything was very low and not up to spec for system pressure of 105-115psi, Did air leak tests sounded like quad range had a leak in it so informed the customer and he said we'll do the permaclutch aswell as the quad range since we'll be right there, checked out valves inside both relief housing and clutch regulating housing, pulled valves both off, found the issue with the PTO which was a broken lever, checked gaskets for breaks, resulted in nothing, new gaskets installed, new o-rings on pipes going into quad range and clutch operating housing, tested again just to see, no change

So since we were going to do the transmission pump, quad range and permaclutch ill inspect the transmission through the top plate and see what I can see since the cab was coming off, look in and find chunks of gear and taper bearing, turns out about 25ish years ago the bearings let go in the transmission and his father brought it to john deer they did the bearings and I'm assuming gears but left all the pieces in it for some reason, my boss about 10 years ago did the load control arm seals and shaft and he pulled a Ziploc bag of bearing and other garbage pieces out, fast forward to the present day and I've got a couple more pieces out so neither the customer and I were happy about how much john deer left, so I tried to deep clean the inside as best as I could getting everything out I could get, did the load control shaft again with bushings and seals since it was leaking

Transmission pump changed, pulled it out and seen the pump was scorn and upgraded to a 4040 pump (done some machining to it to get it to fit) since none for a 4030 are available at my location, split bellhousing in front of range transmission to inspect everything, top shaft syncros done and checked out everything inside the range transmission, including shift forks, made sure no snap rings were broken or gears were free spinning when they shouldn't be, quad range has been rebuilt with all new seals, packing and the pipe on the side with new hold down and bolt, throw out bearing seals done and inspected with new packing, pto and drive clutch both done on permaclutch and adjusted with the proper JD tool from the dealer as well following the steps in the IT manual, pulled both oil filter relief valve and clutch regulating valve apart and inspected and cleaned, changed pto lever inside due to being bent causing PTO to not stay on, changed springs on the clutch pressure valve and cooler relief valve, valves look good, no nicks or round edges, get it all back together and check pressures again, lube pressure is great now, flow meter to check flow for transmission pump is around 11gpm at around 1900 rpm which is a little better then it should be from reading the book, clutch pressure, pto pressure and brake pressure are around 70psi and go up with rpm but nothing extensive only a few psi, pto works and locks on as it should, I haven't put it on equipment to see if its slipping, lube reduction valve is working as when the clutch is depressed it dips in lube pressure, remote pressures are up and where they should be and hold steady, as well as brakes work, steering works, 3 point hitch goes up and down so I am only assuming the front pump works as I don't have a destroke valve on it and am unsure if I should be looking at it due to the fact the tractor still doesn't move in all the same gears/ranges like before but moves in all the other gears/ranges like before and I'm unsure if that could be the cause for this

If anyone has any ideas or suggestions please let me know as I am pulling out my hair over this tractor, thank you

I'm sure I'm forgetting information in this post but if you have any questions I will try to get back to you as quick as I can

 

[NY 986]

Does the tractor have a Sound Guard Body on it? If so the rubber mounts might be severely worn affecting the shifting of the tractor. Meaning the cab is not holding position especially while in motion.

 

[Chevyboy454]

Tractor does have a soundgaurd on it, I've removed the linkages and had someone shift it into gear to eliminate if that is an issue, while I held the clutch in and slowly release and does not move, then shifted it to D while it was in the gear they put it in to verify they did infact set it in correctly into 1 but it shouldn't work in D1 and 2 since they use the same gear correct?

 

[Tx Jim]

IIRC traction & pto pressures should be 155-165 psi. If Perma-clutch doesn't receive correct hyd pressure it will surprise me if hyd hi-lo receives correct pressure

 

[Fixingfarmer]

I had a 4640 that it was that topshaft being worn would do that where the synchronizers engage on the splines. Customer complaint was no hi lo but it was missing a gear range. Cab mounts likely need attention as well

Often shafts from the dealer would be a “rebuilt” used one as they aren’t made anymore or at least a couple years ago were not available

I had to take 2 to make 1

The dealer manual will explain the power flow I’d suggest buying one at John Deere publications.

If you cross the middle neutral slot and the problem changes I’d bet you are headed to the same spot I was

He’s going to spend some $$$

 

[Chevyboy454]

IIRC traction & pto pressures should be 155-165 psi. If Perma-clutch doesn't receive correct hyd pressure it will surprise me if hyd hi-lo receives correct pressure

I was able to do some more tests today with it since I have some more time, Pressures are around 100-120 depending on RPM around 1800 which is spec for a 4030 in the IT manual, when putting tractor in A-3 since A-1 and 2 dont grab and holding brake while releasing clutch slowly it almost stalls and pushes through the brake so i know the permaclutch is grabbing good in that sense, hi-lo pressure when linkage is off and switched back and fourth does not drop so im fairly certain that part of the tractor is working as indicated

 

[Chevyboy454]

I had a 4640 that it was that topshaft being worn would do that where the synchronizers engage on the splines. Customer complaint was no hi lo but it was missing a gear range. Cab mounts likely need attention as well

Often shafts from the dealer would be a “rebuilt” used one as they aren’t made anymore or at least a couple years ago were not available

I had to take 2 to make 1

The dealer manual will explain the power flow I’d suggest buying one at John Deere publications.

If you cross the middle neutral slot and the problem changes I’d bet you are headed to the same spot I was

He’s going to spend some $$$

I have been messing around with the linkages and I fear you may be correct, If i shorten the linkage and play around with the shifter in the cab i can get it into A1-A-2 and B,C all in ranges 1-2 driving but D is out of the question for 3-4 which I can see the cab sagging/settled causing that issue with range D, I am going to remove the cab mounts and inspect them but they didnt seem deteriorated but again I dont have a good one to go off of, Ive checked with my local scrapyards and its not looking ideal for another top shaft and Im worried it could be the same or worse if I were to find one as you stated it took 2 to make the 1, now when I had the Top shaft out to replace the syncros I didnt notice anything obvious with wear but I didnt have another "good" shaft to compare to would it be the cages the syncros sit in or the collar in the center? I will also be removing the top transmission cover and inspecting the issue with my own eyes, so I will let you know what I come up with in the next day or so, Thank you

 

[NY 986]

I have been messing around with the linkages and I fear you may be correct, If i shorten the linkage and play around with the shifter in the cab i can get it into A1-A-2 and B,C all in ranges 1-2 driving but D is out of the question for 3-4 which I can see the cab sagging/settled causing that issue with range D, I am going to remove the cab mounts and inspect them but they didnt seem deteriorated but again I dont have a good one to go off of, Ive checked with my local scrapyards and its not looking ideal for another top shaft and Im worried it could be the same or worse if I were to find one as you stated it took 2 to make the 1, now when I had the Top shaft out to replace the syncros I didnt notice anything obvious with wear but I didnt have another "good" shaft to compare to would it be the cages the syncros sit in or the collar in the center? I will also be removing the top transmission cover and inspecting the issue with my own eyes, so I will let you know what I come up with in the next day or so, Thank you

Places like Abilene Machine used to have rebuilt shaft assemblies. Might pay to check with them.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

I attempted to take a picture of the parts diagram and circled the likely failure

If you have the same problem I did you will need all the parts on this page or as many as you can find you will want to go in with your serial number and check at John Deere i purposely didn’t give you part numbers so I didn’t get it wrong for you that is where to start in person at Deere once you have pulled the cover off and looked in to see(I’m not sure on D if you will be able to see it anyway) but it will be piecing it together from whoever can get it

I believe I got a shaft from Bootheel and synchronizers and drums from Deere but it is going to likely be a task. You probably have more to choose from on the smaller tractor than I did.

10,17,15,and 19 were the main culprits but while you are there it’s difficult to stop you won’t want to do this twice and yes it’s the collar part of the shaft with the springs and balls

On mine it was one of the synchronizer drums itself that had ground the shaft the drum more worn than the shaft but both not serviceable

Approximately 1/4 inch was worn off between drum and collar together

And no looking at it I was like boy I sure hope this does it was easy to second guess myself because it didn’t look too bad and I was going to have 10k in labor to put somewhere if this doesn’t fix it not to mention stands and sound guard body lifting tooling I made

But it did fix it. Sometimes if a bearing went out they might have just been patching it up to sell it while it moved at all. But that’s being negative again and I’m supposed to be good

Good luck and keep us posted how this goes