706 Starting issues

[Kuch1982]

Early serial # 706 diesel. For the last little while trying the push button start, it clunks then nothing immediatly after. A few pushes and it will finally turnover. However, tonight it did one clunk, and nothing again. Pushing the button multiple times and not a peep. Figured it was the switch, so jumped the terminals. Nothing. Went to the starter and jumped that, spins freely but wont engage. Figured a boost or hammering the starter would engage....nothing. im guessing the starter is stuck or something. Ideas before I pull it off?

 

[Powered By IH]

Are you sure you have good battery voltage and good voltage getting to the starter?

 

[used red MN]

Went to the starter and jumped that, spins freely but wont engage.

To jump it at the starter you have to jump across from the large battery cable terminal to the smaller S terminal that the wire from the starting circuit is connected to. Jumping across the two large terminals give you exactly what you got the starter motor spinning but no engagement. The magnetic coil that pulls the internal contacts together has to be energized so at the same time it mechanically pushes the starter drive out to engage the flywheel teeth. As PBIH asked what is your battery voltage? There may just not be enough voltage there to engage the starter. Check voltage if below 12.7v charge batteries and try again.

 

[Kuch1982]

Early serial # 706 diesel. For the last little while trying the push button start, it clunks then nothing immediatly after. A few pushes and it will finally turnover. However, tonight it did one clunk, and nothing again. Pushing the button multiple times and not a peep. Figured it was the switch, so jumped the terminals. Nothing. Went to the starter and jumped that, spins freely but wont engage. Figured a boost or hammering the starter would engage....nothing. im guessing the starter is stuck or something. Ideas before I pull it off?

Ok...stupid me...I was on the wrong starter terminals. (Its been a long week) I got it to fire! Thank you!!!

So I guess that leads me back to the switch...but not sure how it wont turn over when I jump the wires there. Just nothing

 

[Kuch1982]

To jump it at the starter you have to jump across from the large battery cable terminal to the smaller S terminal that the wire from the starting circuit is connected to. Jumping across the two large terminals give you exactly what you got the starter motor spinning but no engagement. The magnetic coil that pulls the internal contacts together has to be energized so at the same time it mechanically pushes the starter drive out to engage the flywheel teeth. As PBIH asked what is your battery voltage? There may just not be enough voltage there to engage the starter. Check voltage if below 12.7v charge batteries and try again.

Ok...stupid me...I was on the wrong starter terminals. (Its been a long week) I got it to fire! Thank you!!!

So I guess that leads me back to the switch...but not sure how it wont turn over when I jump the wires there. Just nothing

 

[used red MN]

but not sure how it wont turn over when I jump the wires there.

It seems like your battery voltage was/is probably low. So along with that there is a possibility that the extra resistance in the circuit for the starter button lowers the voltage enough that it would not turn over when you jumped the start switch wires. The direct jump at the solenoid bypasses all that and essentially gives the highest voltage the system has right to the solenoid coil. The only way to test that is to make sure the batteries are fully charged and then see how it responds. Do you still have two 6 volt batteries in a series or has it been updated to 12 volt batteries?

 

[Kuch1982]

Uograded to 12 volt and full voltage. I do have power at the switch terminal, So Im boggled on why nothing happens when I jump the 2 terminals on the switch

 

[Kuch1982]

It seems like your battery voltage was/is probably low. So along with that there is a possibility that the extra resistance in the circuit for the starter button lowers the voltage enough that it would not turn over when you jumped the start switch wires. The direct jump at the solenoid bypasses all that and essentially gives the highest voltage the system has right to the solenoid coil. The only way to test that is to make sure the batteries are fully charged and then see how it responds. Do you still have two 6 volt batteries in a series or has it been updated to 12 volt batteries?

Uograded to 12 volt and full voltage. I do have power at the switch terminal, So Im boggled on why nothing happens when I jump the 2 terminals on the switch

 

[Powered By IH]

I'm hearing that you are jumping the teminals on the starter switch itself, correct?

If you have power before the switch and you are jumping it, that could mean you have a problem farther downstream in that electrical line. Like maybe the wire to the starter broke, etc.

You could try making sure that you have good power to the button, then measure across that button while pressing it down. You should have the same voltage reading on both sides then.

Then have an assistant help you if possible, and measure the voltage down at that S terminal/Trigger wire on the starter and see if you get any voltage there with the button depressed. I would assume that would be a bad line then. Another way is to measure the continuity between the 2 points and see if the wire is broken that way.

Or maybe the wire isn't broken, maybe it's a connection that went bad, etc. Hard to say without seeing the physical tractor.

Good luck!

 

[Kuch1982]

I'm hearing that you are jumping the teminals on the starter switch itself, correct?

If you have power before the switch and you are jumping it, that could mean you have a problem farther downstream in that electrical line. Like maybe the wire to the starter broke, etc.

You could try making sure that you have good power to the button, then measure across that button while pressing it down. You should have the same voltage reading on both sides then.

Then have an assistant help you if possible, and measure the voltage down at that S terminal/Trigger wire on the starter and see if you get any voltage there with the button depressed. I would assume that would be a bad line then. Another way is to measure the continuity between the 2 points and see if the wire is broken that way.

Or maybe the wire isn't broken, maybe it's a connection that went bad, etc. Hard to say without seeing the physical tractor.

Good luck!

Thanks for the advice. When I get a minute, Im going to pull the wires off the terminals and see if I can jump with a cleaner connection. I assume one of the wires goes to the 's' terminal directly, where does the other go? Ground?

 

[560Dennis]

Get out the volt ohm meter and do voltage drop test .
Prove that you cables are working as designed to carry the load .
Clean all the connections .
I use 0 2 cables made up for the tractors , crimping ends, no temporary clamping style ,
Probably got cables in YT parts

 

[rrlund]

Come on guys, you know it's the solenoid.

 

[used red MN]

Come on guys, you know it's the solenoid.

So you say… has not been proven to me yet.

 

[used red MN]

Thanks for the advice. When I get a minute, Im going to pull the wires off the terminals and see if I can jump with a cleaner connection. I assume one of the wires goes to the 's' terminal directly, where does the other go? Ground?

One wire does go to the solenoid but it may be running through a safety switch on either the park lever, low high gear lever to make sure it is in neutral or a clutch switch. Sorry I am not that familiar with the setup on that tractor. The other wire would be getting power from the on/off switch.

 

[Kuch1982]

One wire does go to the solenoid but it may be running through a safety switch on either the park lever, low high gear lever to make sure it is in neutral or a clutch switch. Sorry I am not that familiar with the setup on that tractor. The other wire would be getting power from the on/off switch.

Well I appreciate the advice. Ill just start chasing wires until I can find something. I suspect there is an old cracked wire somewhere.

 

[used red MN]

Well I appreciate the advice. Ill just start chasing wires until I can find something. I suspect there is an old cracked wire somewhere.

Do you have a test or volt meter? If you do at the safety switches with them plugged in test for power on both wires as you hold the start button down with the key on. If there is power on one terminal but not the other then the switch is not activated properly or its internal contacts are bad. Confirmation can be made by jumping across the terminals of the plug of the switch.

 

[Kuch1982]

Ill give it a shot! Thanks!

 

[Kuch1982]

Do you have a test or volt meter? If you do at the safety switches with them plugged in test for power on both wires as you hold the start button down with the key on. If there is power on one terminal but not the other then the switch is not activated properly or its internal contacts are bad. Confirmation can be made by jumping across the terminals of the plug of the switch.

Ill give it a shot! Thanks!

 

[ss55]

Do you have a test or volt meter? If you do at the safety switches with them plugged in test for power on both wires as you hold the start button down with the key on. If there is power on one terminal but not the other then the switch is not activated properly or its internal contacts are bad. Confirmation can be made by jumping across the terminals of the plug of the switch.

Would checking the resistance across the switch do the same thing?

 

[used red MN]

Would checking the resistance across the switch do the same thing?

Yes and no, in my opinion using the load of the solenoid coil across the switch contacts is a better test. And trying to keep it simple, indication this is needed is here.

I assume one of the wires goes to the 's' terminal directly, where does the other go? Ground?