Another cub 154 low boy question

Was mowing with it again when it stopped moving. The bolt or pin that holds the clutch pressure plate to the tranny sheared off. Parts book is very vague as to what was in there. Would a 5/16 grade 5 bolt and lock nut work? Had to take the clutch brake out to see what the problem was. The bolt on the PTO side was a real pain. Took a torque adapter and my wife's small hands to get that bolt out, don't think we are going to get it back together that way. You guys that have worked on these would you take the sheet metal off that covers the tranny and rearend to make it easier to access this area, or is there another way? Thanks.
 
I've done a lot of work on those things over the years.I just did a clutch in one a few weeks ago.I had to remove that second flywheel to replace the pucks in the clutch brake.You just can't quite get the space needed to take them out with that flywheel in the way.With it all apart get everything freed up so everything slides freely,the hub on the shaft,and most importantly,the bolt slides freely through the hub and shaft.That tight place is not where you want to run into burrs while sliding the bolt through.You will need a bolt long enough that only the shoulder contacts the hub and shaft.You don't want those parts riding on threads.That means you will have to start with a long bolt,and cut most of the threads off.Make sure you can thread the nut on after you saw the threads off,you don't want to be finding burrs after you get the bolt up in there.I put the bolt into a half inch socket on a 2 foot extension,and put it in from underneath.Really,the hardest part is getting a light set just right,and keeping the crap from raining in your eyes.
 
Use a cheap bolt on the drive shaft. You want it to shear off. It's designed to break. Shouldn't happen often, I've mowed hundreds of acres and only broke one bolt. No easy way to swap the bolts ,but.....it's not something you have to do very often.
 
Use a cheap bolt on the drive shaft. You want it to shear off. It's designed to break. Shouldn't happen often, I've mowed hundreds of acres and only broke one bolt. No easy way to swap the bolts ,but.....it's not something you have to do very often.
Why would 154,185 Cubs need a shear bolt do you think? When they moved the clutch to the engine flywheel on the 185 did they still have a bolt designed to break..?
 
Easier and quicker access . IMG_20260916_144756941_HDR.jpg
 
Duner,I can't access that bolt like that,the clutch brake is in the way.And,I can't remove that without removing the flywheel.Is yours earlier without the clutch brake? Or,did somebody in the past throw it away? That has been known to happen.At the Farmall dealer here in town some of the guys said it was a shear bolt,and some said that was a story that got repeated enough to be accepted.I never looked in the parts book to see what they called it.I kind of went with the guys that said it wasn't a shear bolt.What is a shear bolt protecting that far up the stream? Plus,it's being fed by something like 12-15 HP,.If I remember right the IH bolt is just a bolt with mostly all shoulder,and just a little bit threaded on the end to hold a nut.
 
I have removed the clutch brake with pucks more than once from above.
You need the correct wrench and patience as it goes slow.
I am putting it together this time with out the brake as all I do is mow with mine . When I replaced my rear flywheel I sought out one that said cast steel rather than cast iron. My rear flywheel at some point had in the distant past wobbled on the transmission input shaft so now it has a little play, flywheel to shaft. I shimmed the new one but it has .009 runout so I expect clutch chatter. I see no reason why it calls for a shear bolt at that point. Mine is NOT going to have one.
 
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