Yanmar 2210D hydraulic questions

[thebubbleboy]

Hello all,
I have come here over the years to read the wealth of knowledge posted but recently registered as I have a few questions that I couldn't find answers for using the search function.

I was having issues with my FEL and wanted to troubleshoot it and limit the possible problems.
Here is what I did:
Disconnect the FEL and coupled the hydraulic pressure line back together like it was before it had a FEL.
Drained all the fluid, cleaned the filter screen (was not dirty at all) and replaced the fluid with J20A fluid. Is J20A fluid ok? Many posts talk about the old 303 fluid (obsolete) and this said "replaces old 303 fluid and is far superior" on the bucket so I figured it would be fine. Bought it at the local Tractor Supply.
Installed a high pressure gauge inline on the pressure line. Started the tractor and raised the 3 point to it's highest position. You can here the engine load up just a little. The highest reading I got was 500 psi at about 2200 rpm. It was about 420 psi at 1200 rpm.
I figured that the pump was shot so I ordered a new one (should be here before Monday). I just want some information for testing after I install the new pump.
After the pump is installed and I let it warm up and circulate the new oil for a few minutes, what pressure readings should I get when the 3 point is in maximum lift position?
Please look at the attached (2) photos and tell me what each of the circled items are. I love the old 2210 but the lack of a shop manual has always been an issue.
Is "A" the valve that regulates the 3 point pressure? It has a pretty stiff spring under there and a few shims. "B" has a very soft spring and no shims....is this something to do with the small lever that controls the drop rate of the 3 point?
"C" and "D" I didn't touch. Does anyone know what they are for?
I want to know that the pump, pressure settings, fluid and 3 point are all ok before I move on to the FEL issues. FEL problems will be addressed in a future post.
I've read several numbers as far as the maximum pressure that the 2210 should be set at. Mostly 2000 to 2250 psi. Is this correct? I don't want to leave power unused but I don't want to kill my new pump or snap the woodruff key. If the springs need more shims, about how much does each shim raise the pressure/thickness of the shim?

Thank you everyone who took the time to read this. I look forward to your advice. thebubbleboy

 

[winston-HT]

Probably not understanding but just because you raise the 3 point to the highest position that does not create high pressure. Pressure can be created by closing the stop valve (round handle between your legs. However, you must be very careful. With the lift handle all the way down you could close the valve or almost close it and then slowly raise the lift handle. you should be able to get the over 2000 psi you talked about. I would try that with the old pump first.

 

[thebubbleboy]

Thanks for your reply. I will try what you suggested. Do you have any answers on the other questions? I know that your knowledge on the Yanmars is top-notch.

Fluid choice, max pressure, what the ABCD in the pics control?

Thanks again.

 

[winston-HT]

I believe your reference "C" is an outlet for a single action cylinder. I don't know what "D" is. I believe "A" and "B" are indeed relief valves but unsure which is which. One is your main relief valve and one is your safety relief valve. I can tell you on a 226 which is the same range as your 2210 that the safety relief valve is to be set at at 2503 to 2708 psi. That is the relief valve that handles implement bounce. The main relief valve is to be set at 2209 to 2356 psi. I would doubt either of the relief valves is causing your problem but it is possible. I am not a lubricant guru so no comment of fluid .

 

[thebubbleboy]

Thank you very much. I appreciate your help.

 

[bmaverick]

Thank you very much. I appreciate your help.

JDM J20A was the 1st replacement for the banned in 50 states and Canada JD303 fluid. Banned due to the oil being 80% whale oil.

JDM J20A came along to correct the hydraulic leaking that J14 was causing.
Yet, JD20A had it's own set of problems.

When Yanmar teamed up with John Deere to manufacture compact tractors, Yanmar ran incredible testing of their fluid with excellent results.
The fluid brought the update fluid to JDM J20B also known as Yanmar TF500.

The most recent upgrade Yanmar and Deere have done is the best fluid possible and other brand tractor manufactures use this fluid too!
JDM J20C also known as Yanmar TF500A.

Personally, I would not trust J20A. J20B is alright and J20C is the best.

Kubota UDT original is the same JDM J20C.
All made by Ashland-Valvoline

 

[thebubbleboy]

Thank you very much. Great oil information.