Sheeting a (faux) Tin Roof Straight

[RTR]

run the tin long enough and cut it off something like this. But my problem now is the boards that I will screw the tin to in the corner don't seem to be fitting right. Not sure why it is so far above the rest.

 

[MM-TX]

run the tin long enough and cut it off something like this. But my problem now is the boards that I will screw the tin to in the corner don't seem to be fitting right. Not sure why it is so far above the rest.

Cutting an odd roof is not easy. Cut some big cardboard and lay it where the tin goes, as said laying boards across rafters also works. Let that tell you where to put the rafter not the other way around. If you are going to wrap around and join different heights you will have to compromise somewhere.

 

[MM-TX]

This is what I mean by purlins die into each other. They have to lay flat on the rafters and meat each other in a straight line. If they don't you have to move something. Put that rafter up long and cut it when you know where it wants to stop.

 

[used red MN]

I got back on this and here is what I’ve completed. It appears that it is going to have to be mounted much lower?? When I layed the thin strip of wood up there to see how it would lay out, it looks like it is too high. I measured the 2 support 2x4s on either side of the corner and made the center one the length the difference of the 2. That way the transition of the tin from one side to the other should be a smooth taper. Please help me understand what I’m doing wrong

View attachment 164926

View attachment 164927

View attachment 164928

View attachment 164929

View attachment 164930

In my opinion if you try connect the outer edge of the short roof to the long roof I don’t think that the “connecting section” of the roof line will ever look right. Leaving part of the roof rafter exposed as shown by the yellow in MM-TX’s last photo in reply 39 is the best comprise.

 

[RTR]

This is what I mean by purlins die into each other. They have to lay flat on the rafters and meat each other in a straight line. If they don't you have to move something. Put that rafter up long and cut it when you know where it wants to stop.


View attachment 164984

Makes sense to put it up long and cut afterwards. I will remove it and run my thin boards across, sheet it with cardboard, then can put it back up so the vertical position matches.

 

[Mule Meat]

Going to be blunt here.
What I am seeing is a cobbled up mess.

The roof trusses are cut on or installed on two different angles ( as witnessed by how the board is laying). The ones over the door needs to be cut on the same angle and length as the ones on the side or vise versa. Not doing so. You will never get anything to come out right with the pulins or tin.

Honestly the trusses along the wall and corner needs to be torn out first.

Place a purlin much longer than needed so it goes past the corner. Adjust the truss on the corner so that the purlin lays flat on it. Then cut and install the trusses along the side so that they are on the same angle and height as the ones over the door and a purlin will lay flat on them and the corner truss. The trusses need to all be the same length if you want the tin to meet at the corner and be even.

 

[flying belgian]

This is the way I did mine.

 

[RTR]

I think I am going to try to cut my cardboard pieces the same size as the tin so I will have a template so to speak.

 

[Scott 730]

Going to be blunt here.
What I am seeing is a cobbled up mess.

The whole thing looks like a head banger to me. Especially in front of the shelving. IMO. YMMV.

 

[Mule Meat]

The whole thing looks like a head banger to me. Especially in front of the shelving. IMO. YMMV.

Yes.
The purlins would BASICALLY look like this if the trusses were installed correctly. But all of the trusses need to be cut on the same angle, installed at the same height, level and be the same length in order for that to happen..

 

[RTR]

The whole thing looks like a head banger to me. Especially in front of the shelving. IMO. YMMV.

Shelving will not stay there

 

[RTR]

Current situation. Trying to move this section down an inch so it is level with other side once the hip purlins are installed. Not so easy getting this in place and screwing down by myself

 

[grandpa Love]

View attachment 165024

Current situation. Trying to move this section down an inch so it is level with other side once the hip purlins are installed. Not so easy getting this in place and screwing down by myself

If you lived closer, we could drop by and get that knocked out in a couple hours ..... simple stuff for us, but decades in the business helps.

 

[RTR]

If you lived closer, we could drop by and get that knocked out in a couple hours ..... simple stuff for us, but decades in the business helps.

I'm not that far - just Florence. We have the Alabama Music Hall of Fame and Fame Studios here. I also have tractor parts I can trade! haha. I spent 2-1/2 hrs last night and didn't make any progress. I did mount that piece back on the wall 1 inch lower, but I'm still scratching my head. It is just so hard for me to figure out the measurements and build something that is "out in space" . I'm just not experienced in building or working with wood.

 

[MM-TX]

Current situation. Trying to move this section down an inch so it is level with other side once the hip purlins are installed. Not so easy getting this in place and screwing down by myself

From the above statement I assume you are using construction or deck screws. If not on this job they will be much easier, takes the bounce right out those boards.

You can take the outside purlin of the long roof loose and slide it over, the outside two even better. Use them to hold up the outside end of the hip rafter, If the purlin is to short to still catch 2 rafters replace it, leave it long and cut in place later.

You can put a temporary 2x4 block on the wall as a ledge to rest that end of the hip rafter on.

The hip rafter takes a double angle cut at the top to fit snug against the purlins. I'd just fake it (not cut the top) and hold the hip rafter perpendicular to the earth while screwing it from above. Once purlins are coming from both directions it will be easy to correct it and keep it lined up.
When I'm using construction screws close to the end of a board, specially a 1x4, I go to the trouble to drill pilot holes to keep from splitting it.

With the hip in the right place then you can pull a string or two, or a long board from the hip rafter to the wall where you want the roof over the door. Put those rafter brackets back up one at a time. The strings will let you know where they really go and if your angles are right.

I always work by myself. This is how I would approach it from where you are now.

If you can get @grandpa Love over there that's a better deal.

 

[RTR]

From the above statement I assume you are using construction or deck screws. If not on this job they will be much easier, takes the bounce right out those boards.

You can take the outside purlin of the long roof loose and slide it over, the outside two even better. Use them to hold up the outside end of the hip rafter, If the purlin is to short to still catch 2 rafters replace it, leave it long and cut in place later.

You can put a temporary 2x4 block on the wall as a ledge to rest that end of the hip rafter on.

The hip rafter takes a double angle cut at the top to fit snug against the purlins. I'd just fake it (not cut the top) and hold the hip rafter perpendicular to the earth while screwing it from above. Once purlins are coming from both directions it will be easy to correct it and keep it lined up.
When I'm using construction screws close to the end of a board, specially a 1x4, I go to the trouble to drill pilot holes to keep from splitting it.

With the hip in the right place then you can pull a string or two, or a long board from the hip rafter to the wall where you want the roof over the door. Put those rafter brackets back up one at a time. The strings will let you know where they really go and if your angles are right.

I always work by myself. This is how I would approach it from where you are now.

If you can get @grandpa Love over there that's a better deal.

I am using screws. I think Kevin could make short work of this! I am just about done worrying over it. Maybe he will find a tractor to buy up this way soon....