4020 loss of engine Power

Followed the stated steps, tractor fired right up and throttle responsive as designed. Can I drive the tractor with the window off so I can get it out of the field to the barn? I'm going to need a step by step guide for IP removal. I did this once in 2007 and remember that the flywheel had to be turned to a certain spot to keep everything in time. Right now I need to get it in the barn if that is a possibility?
Put the window on but leave it loose enough to leak fuel out. It doesn't have to leak a lot, just need to keep the internal pump body pressure down.

If you have to go far and don't want fuel leaking you could remove the check valve fitting from the pump, install a different fitting you can run a hose from into a can, and collect the fuel while you make the move.
 
Put the window on but leave it loose enough to leak fuel out. It doesn't have to leak a lot, just need to keep the internal pump body pressure down.

If you have to go far and don't want fuel leaking you could remove the check valve fitting from the pump, install a different fitting you can run a hose from into a can, and collect the fuel while you make the move.
It's about a thousand feet to the barn. Will that be okay if I loosely put the gasket and plate back on?
 
To drive it that far, put the timing cover and gasket back on with the two screws. Then the return line and elbow that Tx Jim showed, circled in red, take the line off that 90 degree elbow, and take out the elbow. The tractor will run and fuel will come out the hole where the elbow was, make a mess, but that is OK, you can drive to the house. You need to do this to trap diesel fuel in the pump housing for pump lubrication. Tractor will run and drive, the injector pump will get lub diesel, make a diesel fuel mess, but you will get the tractor home. Let me know when you want the next step! I will tell you how to line things up to take off the injector pump! The pump will need a mayor tear down to replace the governor retaining ring.
 
To drive it that far, put the timing cover and gasket back on with the two screws. Then the return line and elbow that Tx Jim showed, circled in red, take the line off that 90 degree elbow, and take out the elbow. The tractor will run and fuel will come out the hole where the elbow was, make a mess, but that is OK, you can drive to the house. You need to do this to trap diesel fuel in the pump housing for pump lubrication. Tractor will run and drive, the injector pump will get lub diesel, make a diesel fuel mess, but you will get the tractor home. Let me know when you want the next step! I will tell you how to line things up to take off the injector pump! The pump will need a mayor tear down to replace the governor retaining ring.
 
If you don't want high $$$$ fuel to leak out then remove the 90° fitting then break glass ball then reinstall fitting, reattach fuel return line & tighten the 2 timing window screws. Be sure to replace fitting with a ball when inj pump is repaired & avoid driving tractor extended amount of hours especially at higher engine rpm's due to fact that governor in inj pump could fail allowing engine to overspeed.

Update:
Scratch my idea of breaking that ball due to that fitting part # AR40820 cost $56.34 from JD parts & not near that amount of diesel would leak from loose return line while driving tractor a 1000 yds with fuel leaking from IP.
 
A mentioned before, you could do far worse than once back under cover, getting in touch with DieselTech (on this site). Give him your pump information (tractor, year, model, pump part number, and serial number from the tag on the pump). Then let him be the quarterback and follow his guidance.
 
I got interrupted by my bride of 55 yrs. First thing Monday I plan to use your guidance and get it in the barn and get ready for the IP removal. All you gentlemen have made this a comfortable experience and I am grateful for everyone's help! A local friend of mine should know where to take the IP for overhaul.
Tx Jim mentions a glass ball. Once I remove the 90° fitting will there be anything other than fuel coming out with engine running?
 
It should be just fuel. The glass ball is in the fitting which is actually a check valve fitting. It prevents backflow into the pump and releases excess fuel back to the tank.
 
It should be just fuel. The glass ball is in the fitting which is actually a check valve fitting. It prevents backflow into the pump and releases excess fuel back to the tank.
I understand! Waiting until it warms up outside.
 
A mentioned before, you could do far worse than once back under cover, getting in touch with DieselTech (on this site). Give him your pump information (tractor, year, model, pump part number, and serial number from the tag on the pump). Then let him be the quarterback and follow his guidance.
How do I find Diesel Tech on this site?
 
Thanks to you gentlemen the tractor is in the barn, IP is removed, and now I'm sourcing a tech for exchange or rebuild. I have spoken with a Rich Norman, DeiselTech . Also, have talked with Badger Diesel and they use the EID one piece all metal weight cage which sounds like a acceptable upgrade. There is also a local place in Little Rock but they are a couple hundred bucks higher than the rest which could be worth it being that no shipping would be involved. I said all that to ask two questions; Does anybody know of Rich Norman and his work? Are there opinions of the EID weight cage upgrade on the forum?
 
After removal of the cover and gasket. Fuel will run out but that is OK. Start the engine, will it run and respond to throttle change? If does, the injector pump governor retaining ring has fell apart, pieces plugging fuel outlet on the injector pump fuel return line. Injector pump will need to be removed and rebuilt. Suggest DIESEL TECH for help!
Are you aquatinted with Rich Norman DeiselTech?
 
Will known here on Yesterdays Tractors! Does great work, knows the Stanadyne Roosa Masters Fuel Injector Pump. Your 4020 pump problem is common. Contact Diesel Tech ; mhf 35 diesel @yahoo.com, visit with him about your problem and ask him about the EID governor weight cage retainer upgrade? He will steer you in the right direction. Do ask about his services, turn around time, and cost to repair...
 
Will known here on Yesterdays Tractors! Does great work, knows the Stanadyne Roosa Masters Fuel Injector Pump. Your 4020 pump problem is common. Contact Diesel Tech ; mhf 35 diesel @yahoo.com, visit with him about your problem and ask him about the EID governor weight cage retainer upgrade? He will steer you in the right direction. Do ask about his services, turn around time, and cost to repair...
Some of the IP techs reference using a Bosch setup to run and analyze their rebuild. Are you familiar with such and if you recommend using a tech that uses this technology?
 
I have used rich to rebuild 4 of my pumps and 2 for friends. I use a usps flat rate box cost about $14 to send it. His price was beyond fair if not cheap compared to any place near me. Turn around 2-3 weeks if I recall. Have one to send to turn up and a set of injectors for a pulling tractor.
 
Does anybody know of Rich Norman and his work?
I have not personally used his services but have never been in need. As has been said many on here use his services all you ever hear is good feedback on the forums.
Some of the IP techs reference using a Bosch setup to run and analyze their rebuild. Are you familiar with such and if you recommend using a tech that uses this technology?
Any pump shop worthy of hanging a shingle for injection pump repair will have and “injection pump test stand” to calibrate and test a pump when they are finished. I don’t think the brand of the equipment is all that important. The pump on your Deere is old school and not that high tech with lower output pressures etc. The latest and greatest technology is not really required for it.
 
Yes, your injector pump should always be put on a test stand after rebuild? You need to check specs of transfers pump pressure, CC output for all cylinders, leaks, and general operation before putting back on the tractor.. Esp the CC output is horsepower, which can be adjusted! Ask your tech if they run their rebuilt injector pump on a test stand? To me that is important to have done...
 
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