1010 fender Information request

[Hive23]

I am looking for other 1010 owners that could help me with pics and / or dimensions for the OEM fenders. I would like to try and fabricate a set using automotive body panel shaping forming techniques as a practice and skill building for other projects. I have also noticed that there may have more than one style of fenders used on the 1010's depending on tractor "builds" (R, RS, RUS, etc) and year model. The 1010 I have is a 1963 RUS serial above 35000.

 

[Mnethercutt]

The RUS has the big fenders of the 3 styles; there wasn't a design change on the fenders so your serial number shouldn't matter. I have both the smaller ones for the RS/R and I think I still have a set of RUS ones from a parts machine but they're in another state right now. I can send what pictures I have but I don't think they'll be any/much better than what's availble online. Have you looked at the parts diagram on jdparts?

I assume you don't have a set of your own you can measure?

 

[Hive23]

The RUS has the big fenders of the 3 styles; there wasn't a design change on the fenders so your serial number shouldn't matter. I have both the smaller ones for the RS/R and I think I still have a set of RUS ones from a parts machine but they're in another state right now. I can send what pictures I have but I don't think they'll be any/much better than what's availble online. Have you looked at the parts diagram on jdparts?

I assume you don't have a set of your own you can measure?

The fenders that I have look like these aftermarket 2010 fenders that have been "modified" by a mud dobber with a tombstone welder. There are bent like a crushed beer can and about to break off of their own mounts (which are also homemade with scrape iron). I don't fault the guy for doing what he did to keep it running, I've done similar things to better equipment. However, I would like to make this thing look decent enough for a parade at least once in its lifetime and mine. Looking at my manual it appears to me that the RU and RUS use the same style but who can really tell from a these screenshots. I do know that, from the specs listed in the manual, that my tractor is running different tires than standard. I know for sure that the front tires are 7.5 x 15 and I am almost certain that the rear tires are a different size base on my search history (the rubber is so cracked I can barely see anything). Unless you or anyone else has better advice, my current thought is to measure "area" to "fender" and attempt to reproduce something similar with the current rubber. So..... With that in mind, any decent pictures of what the styling is/was on the OEM fenders would be absolutely amazing.

 

[Hive23]

I forgot to answer the question about what JD parts had listed. These are the ones listed on the website and from what I see the part has an "am" prefix meaning they are aftermarket but I'm sure they are close but I also know the OEM fenders had some bead rolled "flair".

 

[Jim.ME]

I forgot to answer the question about what JD parts had listed. These are the ones listed on the website and from what I see the part has an "am" prefix meaning they are aftermarket but I'm sure they are close but I also know the OEM fenders had some bead rolled "flair".

From info I have found I believe the AM prefix of the part number is related to the JD factory that built the part, not designating an aftermarket part. If you have JD info that says that means aftermarket it would be interesting to see to add to the factory letter codes which show M or AM as the Horicon/Dubuque. M as a suffix stands for the Horicon plant.

John Deere owns A&I which are most of the aftermarket parts the dealers sell. The A&I parts are designated with A- as a prefix in front of the regular John Deere part number such as a JD part number T22098 would be A-T22098 for the interchanged A&I part. The A&I parts are often shown as alternates in the new parts catalogs

Here is a link to the aftermarket fenders PartsASAP, YT's parent company sells.

AM1843T fender

 

[Hive23]

From info I have found I believe the AM prefix of the part number is related to the JD factory that built the part, not designating an aftermarket part. If you have JD info that says that means aftermarket it would be interesting to see to add to the factory letter codes which show M or AM as the Horicon/Dubuque. M as a suffix stands for the Horicon plant.

John Deere owns A&I which are most of the aftermarket parts the dealers sell. The A&I parts are designated with A- as a prefix in front of the regular John Deere part number such as a JD part number T22098 would be A-T22098 for the interchanged A&I part. The A&I parts are often shown as alternates in the new parts catalogs

Here is a link to the aftermarket fenders PartsASAP, YT's parent company sells.

AM1843T fender

Jim you are right, I knew there was a letter "A" in the prefix somewhere and might have overlooked some parts in the past because of an extra A or the lack thereof. I went back to JD's parts page and they have both listed, just not available. The JD fenders and ASAP fender look identical and when I compare those to the few verified pics online of similar trim and year model tractors they look the same.

I will definitely do a bit more digging and try to find close ups of the mounting area as well as how the sheet metal is terminated on the edges ( I believe they are rolled over). With that information I will definitely try to make a set of my own to fit the larger rear tires that I have and put a little extra flair in the metal. I'm thinking something to the fleur-de-lis.

 

[farmer52]

A in front of a John Deere part means an "assembly" not aftermarket. Agree with @Jim.ME

 

[Jim.ME]

A in front of a John Deere part means an "assembly" not aftermarket. Agree with @Jim.ME

"A-" in front of a part number means it is from A&I. Since JD owns A&I one can wonder if some are the same part in different packaging. I check the prices and have found the part by the JD part number cost less than the same part from A&I.

 

[Jim.ME]

Jim you are right, I knew there was a letter "A" in the prefix somewhere and might have overlooked some parts in the past because of an extra A or the lack thereof. I went back to JD's parts page and they have both listed, just not available. The JD fenders and ASAP fender look identical and when I compare those to the few verified pics online of similar trim and year model tractors they look the same.

I will definitely do a bit more digging and try to find close ups of the mounting area as well as how the sheet metal is terminated on the edges ( I believe they are rolled over). With that information I will definitely try to make a set of my own to fit the larger rear tires that I have and put a little extra flair in the metal. I'm thinking something to the fleur-de-lis.

For some tractors they used one fender for all size tires. For later models there were spacer blocks that set on top of the axle between the axle and fender mount. Longer bolts were used based on how high they wanted to lift the fender. I don't see the blocks used on the 1010 but they could be. Some later models had fender extensions between the lower front part of the fenders and footrests, another concept you could fabricate/use if you want better protection from the tires for the operator.

 

[Mnethercutt]

I went back through one group of photos yesterday and all I have is pictures of the fenders on my RS. There is another folder on my computer I forgot to check that might have more pictures of my parts machine that has the RUS fenders that I'll check when I get home from work this evening.

Assuming I didn't sell the fenders when I sold the rear wheels and axles to a guy a few years ago, I can try and take actual measurements for you once I'm back at the tractor, but that probably won't be until the July timeframe.

Do you have the service manual or just the operators manual? I've got a PDF version of the service manual and can look through that to see if there are any good pictures if you don't have the service manual.

 

[Hive23]

I went back through one group of photos yesterday and all I have is pictures of the fenders on my RS. There is another folder on my computer I forgot to check that might have more pictures of my parts machine that has the RUS fenders that I'll check when I get home from work this evening.

Assuming I didn't sell the fenders when I sold the rear wheels and axles to a guy a few years ago, I can try and take actual measurements for you once I'm back at the tractor, but that probably won't be until the July timeframe.

Do you have the service manual or just the operators manual? I've got a PDF version of the service manual and can look through that to see if there are any good pictures if you don't have the service manual.

I went back through one group of photos yesterday and all I have is pictures of the fenders on my RS. There is another folder on my computer I forgot to check that might have more pictures of my parts machine that has the RUS fenders that I'll check when I get home from work this evening.

Assuming I didn't sell the fenders when I sold the rear wheels and axles to a guy a few years ago, I can try and take actual measurements for you once I'm back at the tractor, but that probably won't be until the July timeframe.

Do you have the service manual or just the operators manual? I've got a PDF version of the service manual and can look through that to see if there are any good pictures if you don't have the service manual.

I have the Jensales service manual, which I was led to understand was a duplicate of the OEM service manual or something very similar. Oddly enough the best pictures I have found so far are similar model/trim tractors for sale on Ebay.

 

[Hive23]

For some tractors they used one fender for all size tires. For later models there were spacer blocks that set on top of the axle between the axle and fender mount. Longer bolts were used based on how high they wanted to lift the fender. I don't see the blocks used on the 1010 but they could be. Some later models had fender extensions between the lower front part of the fenders and footrests, another concept you could fabricate/use if you want better protection from the tires for the operator.

Are you referring to fender extensions as in the concept used for the orchard trim models that had the wrap around fenders. As for spacer blocks, I would assume that a piece of 2" X ?? square or rectangular tubing with the ?? dimensions representing the height differential needed for clearance would suffice or would it be something different?

 

[Jim.ME]

I have the Jensales service manual, which I was led to understand was a duplicate of the OEM service manual or something very similar. Oddly enough the best pictures I have found so far are similar model/trim tractors for sale on Ebay.

You can often find some good pictures on seller sites like Tractorhouse.

 

[Jim.ME]

Are you referring to fender extensions as in the concept used for the orchard trim models that had the wrap around fenders. As for spacer blocks, I would assume that a piece of 2" X ?? square or rectangular tubing with the ?? dimensions representing the height differential needed for clearance would suffice or would it be something different?

The fender extensions used on some models after the 1010/2010 are more just a flat bent plate about 1/8" thick. It fills between the bottom of the fender and the footrest so a foot or leg wouldn't slip off the footrest and go down between the footrest and tire.

The JD blocks are cast and about 2" in height. Square or rectangular tubing could be used to make similar. All thread rod, the same diameter as the axle mounting bolts can be used to make bolts the length needed if such riser blocks are added. The block under the fender here is on a 2030, same type arrangement as your fenders, shows how the block(s) can be used to lift the fenders for tires with larger diameters.

 

[Mnethercutt]

Went back through and finally found the pictures I had, but I don't think they'll be very helpful. These are the only 3 I have of my parts machine (which, for the record, is keeping my 1010RS going so don't hate me for parting it out so poorly in these pictures) that include the fenders in the picture. Note that the right hand fender (seen on the left in one of the pictures) is bent pretty badly.

 

[Mnethercutt]

Lo and behold I found the fenders behind the shed in my parts pile. Here's pictures and an attempt at measurements. Hope this helps.

Measurements, in order of pictures, are:
W - 33 1/4"
H - 26 1/2"
Curve depth - 5 1/4"
Bottom Plate - 2"