1010 Fluids

[Hotflashjr]

On the 1010 I bought a few months ago I want to change the fluids in the final drives, pto, and transmission. The book calls for SAE 80 multipurpose lubricant. My local Deere dealer is running a special on lubricants and filters and I am getting an order together for all the tractors. Just looking to verify JD GL-5 80w-90 would be the modern day equivalent of SAE 80 that is recommended in the owners manual?

Also, I would like to run Hy-Gard in the hydraulic system instead of the 5w-20. Has anyone done this or have a reason not to do this?

Thanks!

 

[Localboy]

I run SAE30 motor oil in the hydraulic system, as my old 40.

 

[Hay maker2]

Per my JD Service manual, it states that you can either use 80W oil or Hy-Guard for the transmission or PTO. I know the two oils are totally different. I used Hy-Guard in both of my 1010's as I had an issue with the PTO not releasing. The PTO was gummed up from 55 years of old heavy oil, once I cleaned it up it would release like it was suppose too.

The final drives should have 10W as per my manual, they hold 1 gallon each if I remember correctly.

The Hydraulics should use 10W non-detergent.

I use Hy-Guard Hy-Guard in everything except the engine as it is more convenient to have one type of oil instead of multiple types of oils

 

[Hotflashjr]

I ran the 10W non-detergent in the TOM of my MT with no issues but that also had the pump on the engine. When the seals failed whatever was in the TOM would go into the engine. I also ran the 10W in the engine.

I was also thinking Hy-Gard in everything outside of the engine and air cleaner cup but saw the GL5 was the equivalent. It makes sense to use the Hy-Gard to me since it is in the back end of every modern tractor JD makes.

On the final drives it is funny your book has something different than mine. Just double checked and it says SAE 80 in Final Drives, Trans, PTO housing.

 

[Hay maker2]

(quoted from post at 15:44:46 12/15/16) I ran the 10W non-detergent in the TOM of my MT with no issues but that also had the pump on the engine. When the seals failed whatever was in the TOM would go into the engine. I also ran the 10W in the engine.

I was also thinking Hy-Gard in everything outside of the engine and air cleaner cup but saw the GL5 was the equivalent. It makes sense to use the Hy-Gard to me since it is in the back end of every modern tractor JD makes.

On the final drives it is funny your book has something different than mine. Just double checked and it says SAE 80 in Final Drives, Trans, PTO housing.

Is your manual a JD manual or IT???

 

[Mike M]

Well I've only had 1 model 2010 apart in the pto area to fix the roll pin that gives problems in the linkage inside. And from what I remember the live pto on them looks like a 2 cyl. one but is DRY and did not run in oil ? But follow your JD owners manual as I really don't know.
I would not see a problem running hy-gard in anything with wet clutches or hydraulics. I have ran it for years in my old tractors. Hy-gard is really good oil ! I had a dehumidifier fan motor giving problems every year I'd have to oil it. Tried several different oils for motors and all needed more later. tried hy-gard in it and never had to oil it again for years until the rest of it crapped out. That really sold me on hy-gard.

 

[Hay maker2]

(quoted from post at 16:17:58 12/15/16) Well I've only had 1 model 2010 apart in the pto area to fix the roll pin that gives problems in the linkage inside. And from what I remember the live pto on them looks like a 2 cyl. one but is DRY and did not run in oil ? But follow your JD owners manual as I really don't know.
I would not see a problem running hy-gard in anything with wet clutches or hydraulics. I have ran it for years in my old tractors. Hy-gard is really good oil ! I had a dehumidifier fan motor giving problems every year I'd have to oil it. Tried several different oils for motors and all needed more later. tried hy-gard in it and never had to oil it again for years until the rest of it crapped out. That really sold me on hy-gard.

The PTO on the 1010 and 2010 and miles apart is design. The PTO on the 1010 is in front of the transmission (between flywheel and trans.) and the PTO on the 2010 is between the final drives. The 1010 PTO is very similar to the 2 cylinder hand clutch design and the PTO on the 2010 is just like a flywheel and pressure plate with an extremely complicated mechanism to engage / disengage it!

 

[Hay maker2]

I should of said PTO Clutch.....

 

[Mike M]

I'm pretty sure most of the tractors made to run hy-gard in the tranny were also equipped with a lube pump and piping to pump the oil around to critical areas. I don't think I'd run it in something made to run 80w. I'd get an 80-90 as it is common to find.

 

[Hay maker2]

Attached is the page from my JD1010 service manual. 80W or John Deere 303 Special Purpose oil to be used in the transmission and differential.

The 1010 use "splash" lubrication in the transmission. There are also "canals" casted into the housing. These canals will catch oil as the oil is thrown from the gears, then the oil is channeled into bearings and things to provide lubrication.

 

[Hotflashjr]

OM-T17340T original owners manual.

 

[Hotflashjr]

So I am going to run Hy-Gard in the hydraulics, GL5 in the trans and final drives and 5w-20 in the engine with cool-hard. Think that's the best choice.

 

[Mike M]

Like I sometimes say any oil is better than no oil ! LOL. And I have seen some with no oil ! Some had leaked it all out.

I think those are good choices. Since it's really cold out the 5w-20 may be fine but I wonder as it warms up next year if it will leak and burn more ? Guess you will see how tight the engine is.

 

[Hotflashjr]

I will likely change to 10-30 in the spring and if we keep this on snow blower duty next winter back to the 5-20. On the MT I had changed twice a year since it did plow duty between the 10w and 20w. It gets cold enough here where it makes a difference. Figure it doesn't hurt to have new oil in these old engines either.