1010 upper link length

[nails1]

I'm looking for the approximate length of the upper link for a 1010 3pt hitch. I'm hoping to find a generic one. It's an early model, if that matters.
Thank you.

 

[MSM]

Which model of 1010? 1010 S takes a shorter top link than a 1010 row crop or utility which can utilize
an aftermarket generic top link

 

[nails1]

It's actually a 1010W. (I hate to say that out loud.)
I got lift arms from an RU, which had the same trunnion pins and lower frame. So I bet a utility would be the same as mine.
Thanks!

 

[Ray]

I think I have a nice original at my shop off a 1010 W.

 

[nails1]

How much? [email protected]

 

[nails1]

I have a choice of top links: minimum length 21" or 24". What would you pick? (Either one is just $40.)
My lift arms are about 30" long.
For the foreseeable future, I'm just lifting a scraper blade.
Continued thanks.

 

[Bob Harvey]

Might have read this wrong, BUT, you do know there are adjustable top links ? ?

 

[jd2cylman]

(quoted from post at 20:08:03 08/03/18) Might have read this wrong, BUT, you do know there are adjustable top links ? ?

The 420,430, and I'm pretty sure the 1010 all used similar rear ends, model dependent. Some had a center link MAIN body that was 21" long or 24" long, depending upon which style tractor you had. Standard and utility tractors used a short body center link. W's and T's used a long body. The threaded ends for each ball end are the same length for each body. My 430W came with a short body center link, but it was supposed to have a long body. After a lot of internet searching I found a reasonable deal on a long body style. I have an extra short body upper link laying around, but it doesn't bother me

 

[nails1]

Might have read this wrong, BUT, you do know there are adjustable top links ? ?

Of course. The two that are readily available (generic, sitting on the shelf, right down in town) have a "minimum length 21 or 24 inches". They adjust longer than that. I'm just trying to figure out the best one to get.

short body center link. W's and T's used a long body

My 1010 didn't come to me with the 3-pt hitch. I'm rounding all of that up, since I got the hydraulics working. I got everything but the upper link. I mean, I don't have an upper link to switch center bodies. I'm trying to buy a generic link off the shelf, without really knowing what length to buy.

I thought all 1010's had the same geometry and it was a simple question. Sheesh. I'll just use a level to measure a top link that sticks out about the same as the lift arms. It'll probably be the 24. If that's too long, I'm only out $40 to go back and buy the 21.

 

[jd2cylman]

My 1010 didn't come to me with the 3-pt hitch. I'm rounding all of that up, since I got the hydraulics working. I got everything but the upper link. I mean, I don't have an upper link to switch center bodies. I'm trying to buy a generic link off the shelf, without really knowing what length to buy.

I thought all 1010's had the same geometry and it was a simple question. Sheesh. I'll just use a level to measure a top link that sticks out about the same as the lift arms. It'll probably be the 24. If that's too long, I'm only out $40 to go back and buy the 21.

Well, thanks to Deere making it more complicated, a simple answer can get equally complicated. The center link mount was further in or out depending on rear wheel configuration, thus the confusion. The longer or shorter body compensated for that. I don't know the exact lengths of the center body, but your measurements were close.
So, after all this unintended learning, basically you want a center link that when it is half way extended, it matched your lift arms length as you said.
Most of us thought you going for an original link. Sorry.

 

[nails1]

Sorry for the confusion.
Maybe soon my Parade Queen can earn some keep plowing snow.

 

[Mike M]

Hook up the lower arms on the implement and use a tape measure to see what top link will fit the best. That's what I'd do.