1010 with unresponsive hydraulics.

[M_bridges38]

Hi all, I have a '63 1010 RU with single Hydraulics and power steering. My hydraulics including power steering are currently unresponsive. I came across a paragraph in the service manual that states that if you have low pressure it could be an improperly set relief valve. I know where the valve is. Would the "adjustment" just be either adding or subtracting shims?

I have started the tractor to see if the PTO still spins. I figured if the original pump is toast I might be able to use a PTO pump for the loader that is on the tractor. The PTO does spin. The pump feels like its spinning too. I put my hand on the side of the pump housing while the tractor was running and you can feel that the pump is spinning. I can hear a faint whirring noise. The hydraulic fluid is full. I know I shouldnt run the tractor until I know whats up with that pump. I just needed to know what else was working to see if it was going to be worth dealing with the hydraulics. The tractor runs great and has forward and reverse. No strange noises while moving forward or back.

Anyone else have any experience dealing with these pumps? Are there any specific tools I will need? Are there any pitfalls I should avoid? The tractor runs great and is in decent shape. It was also free to me so I'd really love to get some use out of it.

 

[Tx Jim]

I suggest to check/clean screen located in hyd pump suction line

 

[Hay maker2]

I suspect a broken gear int he pumps. Have to recently added anything to the hydraulics like anew loader control valve?

 

[M_bridges38]

I suspect a broken gear int he pumps. Have to recently added anything to the hydraulics like anew loader control valve?

My brother in law had the tractor and he had put a 3 pt wood splitter on the back. He says he was lowering the splitter, it hit the wood pile, and he heard a loud metalic griding sound and then the hydraulics were unresponsive. When I run the tractor I dont hear anything like that. If one of the gears in the pump was broken it would make some kind of noise from the peices bouncing around in the pump housing right?

 

[Hay maker2]

My brother in law had the tractor and he had put a 3 pt wood splitter on the back. He says he was lowering the splitter, it hit the wood pile, and he heard a loud metalic griding sound and then the hydraulics were unresponsive. When I run the tractor I dont hear anything like that. If one of the gears in the pump was broken it would make some kind of noise from the peices bouncing around in the pump housing right?

I can tell you from experience, you most likely will not find a gear. I have two 1010's with power steering and had a broken gear. It took a long time to find a pump.

 

[M_bridges38]

I can tell you from experience, you most likely will not find a gear. I have two 1010's with power steering and had a broken gear. It took a long time to find a pump.

Thats fine. My plan was to put on either a PTO driven pump or a crank driven pump. Have you ever put one of those on a 1010?

Honestly, the pump being bad could make this job way easier. If its the bypass valve or something in the valve housing that would take a lot more work to get to. If the pump is bad i could just replace the pump with a PTO or Crank pump and still have access to the loader and PTO even if I dont have power steering.

 

[M_bridges38]

I suggest to check/clean screen located in hyd pump suction line

What tool would you recommend to get that fitting off? My thought is a crows foot wrench.

 

[Tx Jim]

I don't know why a regular open end wrench would not be fine.

 

[M_bridges38]

I don't know why a regular open end wrench would not be fine.

Theres just very little room. Especially for the 1-1/2" wrench I would need to fit in there. The valves and control rod for the load and depth control is right in front of that fitting.

 

[Jim.ME]

As a related point, I am going to suggest you do some cleaning of the area before you start trying take it apart or you might end up with a bunch of crud inside the housing.

A crows foot should work or a wrench. You may have to remove some of the other lines as well before you are done.

 

[M_bridges38]

As a related point, I am going to suggest you do some cleaning of the area before you start trying take it apart or you might end up with a bunch of crud inside the housing.

A crows foot should work or a wrench. You may have to remove some of the other lines as well before you are done.

Yeah ill be hitting it with the pressure washer before I take anything else apart.

 

[Tx Jim]

If I was performing that task after pressure washing I'd remove seat bracket & scv including control handle to give more access to nut with an open end wrench to nut securing hyd screen.

 

[Mnethercutt]

I've spent more time than I would like to admit in the transmission and hydraulic system on 1010s and a couple things I'd encourage you to consider:

1. The hydraulic pump is live and only runs the power steering and the hydraulics on the back. It doesn't have anything to do with your forward/reverse or PTO so unfortunately that isn't any indication of the issue (except ruling out a complete disconnection between engine and transmission).
2. While you should check the screen, don't expect it to be there. Both of the machines I've worked on the screen had long since disintegrated. Deere (or anyone else) doesn't make it anymore, and I've had no luck finding any on parts machines. I have since modified my tractor with a third party screen setup.
3. I use a really large wrench (1-3/8" I think?) to get the nut off on my return line, but I have an RS with the dual hydraulic system and there is room for me to get the wrench onto the nut from under the tractor; it doesn't look like you have that option so I don't have any good suggestions for you.
4. I would recommend you pull the pump after checking the screen. It's only the lines and then 2 bolts and it should lift right out. You can split the pump open to check the gears inside, or even easier just put some fluid in the return line fitting and turn it by hand to see if it does anything. The pump is driven by what I'll call an 'adapter block' that converts gear power 90 degrees up from an input shaft in the engine. (I'm sure there's a technical name/description for this but I'm not a technical person). That block uses 4 hex head bolts to hold it to the clutch housing. If your pump is pumping you can remove that block and inspect it to see if the gear on the end is chipped or damaged in some way, and can also see down into the clutch housing to look for any damage there.
5. If you decide to go with the PTO driven pump, I would recommend you leave the original pump off the tractor and fabricate a cover plate to bolt over that adapter block.

I'd post pictures but my tractor is in another state and JD doesn't have a good parts diagram that shows the hydraulic pump and the adapter block in the same assembly, and I can't find the PDF I made of the service manual to grab a picture from that. Good luck!

 

[M_bridges38]

I've spent more time than I would like to admit in the transmission and hydraulic system on 1010s and a couple things I'd encourage you to consider:

1. The hydraulic pump is live and only runs the power steering and the hydraulics on the back. It doesn't have anything to do with your forward/reverse or PTO so unfortunately that isn't any indication of the issue (except ruling out a complete disconnection between engine and transmission).
2. While you should check the screen, don't expect it to be there. Both of the machines I've worked on the screen had long since disintegrated. Deere (or anyone else) doesn't make it anymore, and I've had no luck finding any on parts machines. I have since modified my tractor with a third party screen setup.
3. I use a really large wrench (1-3/8" I think?) to get the nut off on my return line, but I have an RS with the dual hydraulic system and there is room for me to get the wrench onto the nut from under the tractor; it doesn't look like you have that option so I don't have any good suggestions for you.
4. I would recommend you pull the pump after checking the screen. It's only the lines and then 2 bolts and it should lift right out. You can split the pump open to check the gears inside, or even easier just put some fluid in the return line fitting and turn it by hand to see if it does anything. The pump is driven by what I'll call an 'adapter block' that converts gear power 90 degrees up from an input shaft in the engine. (I'm sure there's a technical name/description for this but I'm not a technical person). That block uses 4 hex head bolts to hold it to the clutch housing. If your pump is pumping you can remove that block and inspect it to see if the gear on the end is chipped or damaged in some way, and can also see down into the clutch housing to look for any damage there.
5. If you decide to go with the PTO driven pump, I would recommend you leave the original pump off the tractor and fabricate a cover plate to bolt over that adapter block.

I'd post pictures but my tractor is in another state and JD doesn't have a good parts diagram that shows the hydraulic pump and the adapter block in the same assembly, and I can't find the PDF I made of the service manual to grab a picture from that. Good luck!

Thank you for the insight. I have a copy of the service manual for the 1000 series tractors but its maddening to read. My 1010 is an RU with single hydraulics and power steering. The SN is 39237.

What im guessing im going tohave to do is take the pump off and put on a PTO driven pump. Is it just as simple as finding one with a similar GPM and then just in to in and out to out? Unfortunately I fear that the power steering is gone for good.

I've spent more time than I would like to admit in the transmission and hydraulic system on 1010s and a couple things I'd encourage you to consider:

1. The hydraulic pump is live and only runs the power steering and the hydraulics on the back. It doesn't have anything to do with your forward/reverse or PTO so unfortunately that isn't any indication of the issue (except ruling out a complete disconnection between engine and transmission).
2. While you should check the screen, don't expect it to be there. Both of the machines I've worked on the screen had long since disintegrated. Deere (or anyone else) doesn't make it anymore, and I've had no luck finding any on parts machines. I have since modified my tractor with a third party screen setup.
3. I use a really large wrench (1-3/8" I think?) to get the nut off on my return line, but I have an RS with the dual hydraulic system and there is room for me to get the wrench onto the nut from under the tractor; it doesn't look like you have that option so I don't have any good suggestions for you.
4. I would recommend you pull the pump after checking the screen. It's only the lines and then 2 bolts and it should lift right out. You can split the pump open to check the gears inside, or even easier just put some fluid in the return line fitting and turn it by hand to see if it does anything. The pump is driven by what I'll call an 'adapter block' that converts gear power 90 degrees up from an input shaft in the engine. (I'm sure there's a technical name/description for this but I'm not a technical person). That block uses 4 hex head bolts to hold it to the clutch housing. If your pump is pumping you can remove that block and inspect it to see if the gear on the end is chipped or damaged in some way, and can also see down into the clutch housing to look for any damage there.
5. If you decide to go with the PTO driven pump, I would recommend you leave the original pump off the tractor and fabricate a cover plate to bolt over that adapter block.

I'd post pictures but my tractor is in another state and JD doesn't have a good parts diagram that shows the hydraulic pump and the adapter block in the same assembly, and I can't find the PDF I made of the service manual to grab a picture from that. Good luck!

Thank you for the Insight I'll take that suction line off and check. I'm going to have to take it off anyway. I've been referencing a service manual that I have that is for all the 1000 series tractors. Mine is an RU with single hydraulics and power steering. SN 39237.

My guess is that I'll end up putting a PTO driven pump on the back of this tractor is it as simple as just taking the suction line putting it into the Inn on the PTO pump and then the pressure line into the out? Obviously I need to have some soft lines fitted for it and unfortunately it seems that the power steering is done. Do you have any suggestions of crank pump vs PTO pump and any brands that you would suggest?

 

[Mnethercutt]

Thank you for the insight. I have a copy of the service manual for the 1000 series tractors but its maddening to read. My 1010 is an RU with single hydraulics and power steering. The SN is 39237.

What im guessing im going tohave to do is take the pump off and put on a PTO driven pump. Is it just as simple as finding one with a similar GPM and then just in to in and out to out? Unfortunately I fear that the power steering is gone for good.



Thank you for the Insight I'll take that suction line off and check. I'm going to have to take it off anyway. I've been referencing a service manual that I have that is for all the 1000 series tractors. Mine is an RU with single hydraulics and power steering. SN 39237.

My guess is that I'll end up putting a PTO driven pump on the back of this tractor is it as simple as just taking the suction line putting it into the Inn on the PTO pump and then the pressure line into the out? Obviously I need to have some soft lines fitted for it and unfortunately it seems that the power steering is done. Do you have any suggestions of crank pump vs PTO pump and any brands that you would suggest?

If your S/N is 39237 then that's an early model and it may have a different style pump based on the part diagrams. I'm afraid I don't know anything about the hydraulic flow question, but I might can provide steps for repairing or replacing the pump depending on what you find. If it was my machine I would try and get the pump fixed or get another one before going with a PTO drive pump, but to each their own. Again I'd make sure that something is broken on your existing pump before going through the trouble of setting up the PTO style pump

 

[M_bridges38]

If your S/N is 39237 then that's an early model and it may have a different style pump based on the part diagrams. I'm afraid I don't know anything about the hydraulic flow question, but I might can provide steps for repairing or replacing the pump depending on what you find. If it was my machine I would try and get the pump fixed or get another one before going with a PTO drive pump, but to each their own. Again I'd make sure that something is broken on your existing pump before going through the trouble of setting up the PTO style pump

So I have the service manual for all of the 1000 series tractors so it's every serial number for the 1010s it does have a section specifically for the type of pump that I have. I've been trying to find a replacement pump for years I have not been able to find a machine with these specifications so if this pump is toast I have no other option than a crank or a PTO driven pump.