1020 leaking hydraulic oil

[KB]

OK, have 1020 that is dripping hydraulic/transmission oil where the 3pt arms are attached to the rod going through the transmission case. I have never seen this before. I have looked at the online parts breakdown and don"t see any seals for this area but then again I don"t see the rod that the arms attach to either. Just wondering if anyone has seen this before and what needs to be done to correct it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[tim s]

You need to look at the Load shaft in the parts ,,this is an easy repair, drain the oil, remove the lower links, pull the shaft out replace the o-ring and back up ring, re-install the shaft, you will need 2- A4730R and 2- T22098

 

[fatbob50]

KB, I have fixed four of these in the past 5 years. I did one on a 830 3 cylinder, a 2020, a 2950, a 2440, and I am working on one on a 2940 right now. I have it torn down and am waiting on parts for it. All of mine leaked and got progressively worse until I fixed them. This seems to be a common problem on these tractors. The leaks are fairly easy to fix. They usually cost me about 200.00 to 300.00 to fix them, depending on how many parts I have to buy. There are a couple of things to watch for when you are fixing this leak. One is that you usually have to replace the shaft, not just the seals. The other is you might have to replace the bushings if they are worn. I do not always have to replace the bushings, but have always had to replace the shaft. There is a seal on each side of the tractor that the shaft goes through. It is obvious to me (after changing so many) that John Deere has had a problem with this seal. John Deere no longer sells the original seal. The new seals are designed different and seem to work better. You can get by with trying to change the seals and not replace the shaft, but a friend of mine did that and had to go back and redo it all about a year later. Considering how much hydraulic fluid it holds, it is better to do it right the first time. That leak is at the very lowest part of your hydraulics, so all of your hydraulic fluid gets leaked out. You will also need to make sure you use shim washers to take up the slack in your lift arms. One other good thing about fixing that leak, is you get the opportunity to look inside your hydraulic case to check for anything that may have broken off and fallen in there. The 2950 I did, had chunks of emergency brake pad the size of marbles in it. Also, John Deere does not tell you how many shim washers you will need. It will vary from tractor to tractor with the thickness of the shim washers. You need to use enough shims that you get as much of the slack out as you can. You are welcome to email me with questions. I can also post a diagram of this on here if you want it. Good Luck, Bob

 

[Tx Jim]

Be sure and put L/D control lever in "D" so load control shaft won't contact parts key #15 on re-installation of shaft and as previously stated shim all side to side motion out of LC shaft when draft arms are attached.

 

[KB]

Thanks all for the help. Looking at the right diagrams does make a difference. I'll start tearing down from here and see what I'll need and where to go from there.