1020 won't start

Yeah, you guys were a lot of help
Not just sure of your meaning here. I will say if you go back and read the thread, there were questions asked of you which were not answered, and checks/tests suggested for you to do that did not get the result reported, if you even did them. Using a forum to get repair info you have to be the eyes, hands, and ears for those trying to help you, they are not there to see or touch your tractor. Answers from you to the questions that were asked and results of the tests and checks, might have led to better results.
 
Yep labor has doubled 190 bucks an hour I saw on the sign in the parts department here. It’s not a bad project if you are game for it they usually take a morning if you have all the parts realistically by the time you bleed it if the other side is ok. It’s easy with a forklift but harbor freight cherry picker will do that little one. Longer alignment bolts with the heads cut off are nice too
Just a couple of weeks ago, I attempted to move my JD 420 (2-cyl) tractor which I hadn't started for several months. It started but only ran for a few seconds and sputtered and died. Restarted it with a few seconds of cranking and I did get it moved a few feet before it died again. Couldn't get it to run continuously. Pulled it home, did some troubleshooting on the fuel system (carb had been prof. overhauled earlier, plenty of gas going through it). Started checking the distributer, points, cap, wires, etc., without finding anything so having had previous problems with condensers in other tractors, decided I would get another condenser from a non-running tractor, installed it in the 420 and it fired right up and ran like a champ after I readjusted the carb. Restarted it several times, parked it in a shed. Bought a new condenser at the dealer a few days later to have on hand.
 
What did they find that was preventing it from starting and running, the original problem you posted about? By posting the solution you might be helping someone in the future, since we apparently failed in solving your problem.

As for the brakes, it doesn't take long for dealer labor and OEM parts to add up. We can feel your pain but unfortunately, that is the way things are going if one has to use a dealer.
No use barbing one another, but to my fault, I failed to mention it had a loader on it preventing me from even getting to the points, condenser etc,..Maybe if I had mentioned that, somebody may have had a suggestion on how to get the loader off without it falling down or tearing something up. It is a 143 loader without a parking stand and I can't find a stand for it anywhere. As far as the brake issue. I would have had to take it to a dealer anyway because I am not equipped with stands, jacks, etc that would have enabled me to get to the brakes. The dealer did give me a break on the labor as he reduced the labor down from 175/hr. to 145/hr. Seems this particular dealer has a rate of 145 for classic tractors and 175 for modern tractors. They replaced everything concerning the ignition system except the distributor as they said they didn't think it had been tuned up in years judging by the looks of things. I'll try to do better in the future and if I frustrated or offended anyone, I apologize.
 
No use barbing one another, but to my fault, I failed to mention it had a loader on it preventing me from even getting to the points, condenser etc,..Maybe if I had mentioned that, somebody may have had a suggestion on how to get the loader off without it falling down or tearing something up. It is a 143 loader without a parking stand and I can't find a stand for it anywhere. As far as the brake issue. I would have had to take it to a dealer anyway because I am not equipped with stands, jacks, etc that would have enabled me to get to the brakes. The dealer did give me a break on the labor as he reduced the labor down from 175/hr. to 145/hr. Seems this particular dealer has a rate of 145 for classic tractors and 175 for modern tractors. They replaced everything concerning the ignition system except the distributor as they said they didn't think it had been tuned up in years judging by the looks of things. I'll try to do better in the future and if I frustrated or offended anyone, I apologize.

That was decent of the dealer to give you the lower labor rate.

Do you have the Operator's Manual for the 143 loader? Do you understand that the parking stand only supports the lift arm frame (boom), that the uprights and boom cylinders stay in place on the tractor? If you don't have a copy, send me a PM and I will tell you where to get a copy.

In case you have a need to remove your loader in the future. I have tractors with 145 loaders, a 148 loader, and another similar loader on a 301A, none have parking stands. Having more than one loader does allow using one to remove another, but I have removed them without using another loader. Do you have a tree with a good-sized limb you can park under? Use a 1-ton chain fall or com-a-longs hung from the limb to hold the loader up, attaching to the arms near the upright. Some people have built gantry type frames to hang their loader from. I know a guy that built a place to hang his loader, inside the shed where he parked the tractor, for removal and storage. I have put a bucket under something the loader can't lift and used the loader hydraulics to lift the loader uprights off the mounts, backed the tractor away from the loader, then blocked under the uprights when the tractor was clear. Doing that does require longer (or extension) hoses on the supply and return to the valve during removing and installing the loader. Even if you had a parking stand, the tractor has to be running to use it to mount or dismount the loader. If you hang the loader, you need something to pull a dead tractor out from under the loader. Or something able to lug the loader away from the tractor.

Mentioning the loader might have helped, you would have gotten suggestions like the ones I gave you here, but loaders don't have to come off to do a tune-up. I will say that I feel I have a good idea of the difficulties of doing a tune-up on a JD like your 1020. The other day I put points and condenser in a dead 301A (basically the same 3-cylinder tractor as your 1020) setting on a trailer and I didn't remove the loader. I have done tune-ups on a 1520 and 2020 without removing the loaders. Access to the distributor is not as easy as doing a tractor without a loader, but easier than removing and reinstalling a loader just to do a tune-up, at least for me.

I wasn't trying to barb you and apologize if it came across that way. Back in November when we were trying to help you work through this, you left us waiting for some info from you. As I posted near the beginning of the thread "We don't know your skill set or available tooling." It sounds like the dealer did a tune-up of the ignition to get it running. We were trying to determine that was needed, we didn't know of your issue with the loader. Did they remove the loader to do the tune-up? We went from you saying you would have a picture in a day or two last November to here, 9 months later, that you took it to the dealer. On this side of the fence that kind of comes across as our info and suggestions were no good. That showed in wore out's post and was furthered by your reply to it. The more, clear info you can provide the less likely there will be misunderstandings. I work the ignition systems of those tractors with the loader on, I never thought there was any reason someone couldn't, or if there was, they would say there was a reason they couldn't. If the loader mounts don't attach to or block removing the axle housings, I wouldn't remove the loader to do the brakes. Better to give what you think might be too much info when asking for advice on a forum. You are the eyes, ears, and hands for the group. Speak up if you don't understand or have a problem, so we can do better in our efforts as we try to help.

I would still be interested in seeing a picture of what the part you replaced is, the one that you said the dealer called an ignition solenoid, in case it comes up again.
 
After spending 7000.00 at a dealer last year, I once again have a starting problem.
After cranking for at least a minute, it sputters and coughs finally deciding to run. It dies at low idle and won't start again unless I choke about half way, at which point it will run and idle at 1000 but as soon as I push the choke in it dies. Any adjustments to the carbuerator I can make ?
 
I would do the fuel flow test from the carb bowl drain first (report the results) to rule that out, as it will be asked for.

Was it running good and this just started or did you make an adjustment or was there an outside incident that this problem immediately followed?

Hold a plug wire near the block (tractor in park or neutral) and crank the engine over while holding the plug wire near the block to see the spark. You might have to slide the boot back to expose the metal end on the wire to see the spark. Report back with color and how far it will jump.

If it has stalled or the key been left on for any length of time with the engine not running the contact surfaces of the points may be compromised. Are you going to be able to work on the distributor with the loader on it, I seem to remember you had an issue around that before. You need to inspect the inside of the distributor cap, rotor button and the inside of the distributor (points) to look for moisture and cracks in the cap, carbon tracks inside the cap and on the rotor, make sure the center contact that the tab on top of the rotor button rubs is in the cap, and see if the points appear burn/discolored. some good pictures might give us an idea of condition, if you aren't sure.

Some looking and checking is needed up front to head in the right direction.
 
OK. SUPPOSEDLY the dealer changed plugs, points, condensor,rotor cap, adjusted valve timing and valve clearance. cleaned fuel tank, cleaned and adjusted carburetor, replaced fuel filter. When I got it back, it started and ran great but over a period of time. it has become more difficult to start, However, after it finally starts it runs fine. As you can imagine, I am becoming very frustrated with this tractor. I have made no adjustments to anything and have not left the key on except when actually running.
 
I understand you are frustrated. I can't just say do this and it will start and run prefectly. If I was right it would be luck.

The dealer worked on it over a year ago based on the earlier part of this thread, things often change over time. You haven't made any adjustments and the key hasn't been left on, good.

Looking at and checking things can reduce money spent on the wrong things. Along with the things above pull the spark plugs and see how they look. Post a picture of them. Points burn, filters get dirty, crud finds it way into carburetors, plugs foul, etc.
 
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