1030 lower bore issue

[jon f mn]

Came across this on my 1030 block. I there is only one like this. I missed it because it was covered with rust. Will this seal ok? Or do I need to fix it?

 

[scott mcintosh]

That bore looks ugly I would find a machine shop that has knowledge in block repair and have it machined and inserts installed.While it is there if counter bore have top done also while it is on machine.Hopefully Rod will chime in with a shop closer to you.Won't be cheap but things go together so smooth when done.Had 1370 block uppers done last year it cost me 1400.00 but that was with cam bearings installed.Scott

 

[John Saeli]

Jon: Many years ago I was taught by a CASE Dealer-Mechanic to NOT lose sleep over pits and gouges in the lower sleeve bores. Fix them with J.B. Weld, and hone when dry. Done many that way ever since, with 100% success.

 

[jon f mn]

Was thinking that would work. On this one I think the o-rings will actually sit on good block, but might get damaged on install. I think some jb to smooth things might work good.

 

[LJKCK]

I've never done a case engine but have used Belzona on other engines including caterpillar 3306s. It is expensive but sets up harder than jb and haven't had a problem in quite a few years of service. I just sand to get good adhesion, mix, and slap some on and sand until it fits, then let it cure before the sleeve goes in. If Belzona fully cures before you work with it, it will take a lot longer to shape since it gets very hard. First worked with the stuff when I worked at the CNH dealership 13-14 years ago. Have also heard of guys using silicone when going together but know of one instance that only lasted a few thousand hours from overhaul until there was coolant getting into the pan again.

 

[JK930CK]

I've overhauled both my 930's in the past few years. Both looked like yours. Repair as mentioned by others, make smooth, test fit. Use plenty of lube on install and with good steady hand pressure they will slide in fine. Knock on wood, neither of my engines have leaked.

 

[1370rod]

Jon the kind repair I choose really depends on the owners future uses and wishes for the tractor. The best way of course is to have the block machined and reconditioned. I know if you had the blocked checked out there would be more issues than that one lower bore. That service comes with quite a price, but without a doubt the best repair. I have repair some lowers like that with JB also with good result after getting the OK from the owner. Cost by far less but with increased risk. Those blocks are noted for counterbore issues and poor sleeve support but most of the time problems do not crop up if the tractor has a semi retired easier life. That is my 2 cents worth, Rod.

 

[jon f mn]

Thanks Rod! This one will get limited hours on it from now on so I'm hoping the jb solution will work. Other than this the block looks very good, one of the best I've seen. There are no signs of any cracking in or around the upper bores which kind of surprised me. And all 5 of the other lower bores look good. Many years ago I bored a 930 out for 504 sleeves for pulling. To get that big when you bore the front hole the water pump housing needs to be bored a little, just knock off a little to clear the sleeve. Anyway, hitting that with the boring machine walked the machine back a little so the lower bore got out of alingment without us seeing it. So we built it up with jb weld and re-bored it and it is still holding today, over 20 years later, running 3,000 rpms and about 200 hp without a turbo. But only for pulling tho. That is the only time I've ever used jb weld. I think the o-rings will set on the good block and the jb will just be to keep them from getting damaged during assembly. That is my hope anyway.

 

[mEl]

Jon, If I were you I would take the posters advice and use Beloza, it is a great product, so much stronger and easy to form until it sets, in needed applications it can be drilled and tapped just like metal, it is a two part mix, not particularly cheap but would be a much more permanent repair. Hope the project goes well.

 

[jon f mn]

That be available at napa?

 

[mEl]

Jon, we got it from an industrial supply house in Williamsport Pa, Schearer industrial or something like that, now defunct, I will search to see if Fastenall or someone like that can supply it,

 

[mEl]

(reply to post at 11:11:38 04/03/17)

Jon, you can check it out on Amazon, it is very expensive, I think a good alternative would be Devcon, which I am quite sure you may have already used at times, it is also a 2 part mix of industrial quality. Belzona is the proper spelling of the other product, I misspelled it in my previous post. Just me I guess but I never warmed up to JB weld for some reason, that has no bearing on it being a bad or good product, just me

 

[1370rod]

Jon I know nothing about building a engine for pulling, but 200 hp from a non turboed engine sounds darn good to me, Rod.

 

[jon f mn]

I no longer own it, but here she is pulling this year on concrete over in Wisconsin. After over 20 years since I built her she is still mostly unchanged.
930 pulling