1070 Air conditioner condenser

Do not waste your money. Buy a new one that is designed for the R134. Once converted to R134 the R12 parts cause the pressure to go so high that eventually the evaporator and the lines will leak. Compressors will only last for a few years. The new condensers that are designed to work with the R134 develop about half the pressure. I just had my 970 all converted to the 134 system. The only thing that was useable from the entire R12 system was the compressor clutch. I can look in the file and see what the condensor cost, but if I remember right it was about $150.
 
DKase

I changed seals and put 134 in my 2390. It works but not not like it should and I have thought about converting it the right way and was wondering what it would cost and entail.

Thanks
THaden
 
Can your old one be soldered? I charge all our R12 units with very inexpensive propane. Propane is a better coolant than R134 & R12. Before you jump all over me, your A/C contains about 2 pounds propane. How many pounds are piped into your house?
 
r-12 is available in the neighborhood here for a $$$? .. but , Feel it best to go 134 , however It is your position that the comprssor , radiator condensor,evaporator and all will not hold up to the increased demands of prssure .. would you mind a ph call on the subject ?? .. thanx jim
 
thanx ,john , shucks wish i had one to fix ..lol , the condenser part in front of the radiator is missing entirely !.. Have heard that Propane could do the job ,and not against it entirly ,, my biggest concern would be fire hazard ????... was thinki8ng that an old 72 lincoln condenser coil could work or perhaps one out of a 86 dodge truck ???.. others claim that is inviting trouble into a already difficult science , for a clod kickin cuntry boy ..lol . probably should give ruscha a call to see if they have one ...
 
BIG BIG $$$$ The pressures had run so high for so long that the compressor was shot, all the hoses were seeping, evaperator was leaking. Condensor was OK, but simply replacing the bad parts would not fix the high pressure problem. That is caused by the condensor. Cost me just under $2000 parts and labor. On a 90 degree day I run the temp control about 1/2 way to max with the fan on low. It could freeze me out of the cab now.
 
John It seems to me we have been through this before. I hope you have HUGE warning tags on your system by every connection. At the pressures that your system runs every table spoon of propane has the same explosive power as a stick of dynamite. If you want to take that risk yourself fine. Please do not recomend it to others without all the facts.
 
DKase-- I suppose you would tell me that to fuel a propane tractor by blowing off excess pressure is a no-no too. I fueled that way fo 53 yrs. . But if what you say a teaspoon is like a stick of dynamite I think fueling with a pump would be just as dangourous. Only guy I know that had a fire from proopane was when he was blowing off dust with vapor and his tractor was running and he went by the generator. He didn"t get hurt but burnt up his tractor.
 
Jim, there is also a product out there called Freeze 12 that works well and doesn't cost all the bullion in Fort Knox. I think the last time I checked it was like $8.00-$12.00/ # (can)and a system usually only takes 2-3 cans. Before spending major bucks on an R134 system, which for the long term is the real way to go, I would measure the spot for the evaporator and you know the condensor is about the size of your radiator. The size of the condensor is not as important as the size of the evaporator because if you have ever looked at high efficiency home units the condensing coil is way larger than your old lower efficiency models. What you try to do is remove as much heat as possible from the gas before it hits the compressor, this way the compressor works less hard. With an evaportator coil too large the heat transfer surface is enlarged and your air temp will be higher exiting the coils. Too small then you run the risk of not converting all of the high pressure liquid to gas and compressors DO NOT like to try and compress liquid and you will eventually, if not quickly, ruin the compressor. If you have an old eveporator go to an automotive AC supply store and see how close you can come to the original size. AND if they have one with copper lines go with that over aluminum lines. While aluminum has a little better heat transfer characteristics than copper and for fuel economy in cars its much lighter, there is a metallurgical problem with the way they are designed and the aluminum core coils are not long lived, especially in humid cliamtes.

Jim
 
What is the risk when we put the family in the car for a drive, pull up to the gas pump & put 20 gallons of gasoline in the tank? Potential fire bomb on wheels & I guarantee that the 20 gallons of gasoline will make a bigger boom than 2 pounds of propane.
 
DKase I totally agree. Not mention Case A/C systems work better than any color anyways. Charge it 134. If you can't get it to cool decent you have other problems, leaks, plugged condenser, bad expansion valve, etc. A 30# can of 134a is up to $150 now...so what that will do 10 Case tractors. I bet someone would really be ------ if they sucked that propane in their $6000 A/C machine!!!!!!!!!!!
 
That's 20 gal. of liquid at 0 psi not 3 pounds of of vapor at 250 psi. The point is these guys don't need to try chargeing their tractors with a explosive gas when they don't know what they are doing to start with.
 
John I had actual heard it was a flamable gas with a bit of something else for other purposes, didn't know what. Didn't know if was butane, propane or LP gas. I think Butane has a higher boiling point than Propane so that makes sense. Propane could cause an evaporator to freeze up as I think its boiling point is around 20 degrees F.

Jim
 
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