10SI alternator spade question

[mpdhorsecop]

OK. I got the new alternator but just for safety sake I have a question. Looking at the back of the alternator; with the plug in connector on top; the two spades left to right, starting with the left connector, it is marked #1 on the housing and "N" right below it. On the right spade, #2. Below #2 is stamped "F". On all the diagrams I've seen on here #1 spade is the field wire. The #2 is the sensing wire (or strator). My question is this. Does that "F" below the #2 stamped on mine mean "Field" or should I just disregard those and hook it up the way it shows on the diagram john n la made? Ok two questions. Thanks.

 

[sotxbill]

the 10si has an internal regulator, so the f designation is pretty lame. the spade closest to the battery lug is the ignition sense.. it runs back to a bulb and then the igition switch. this lead will sense the ignition is on, and also light up the bulb if the alternator fails... the spade fartherest from the bat lug is a voltage sense lead. you can simply run it to the big battery lug and it will make sure that point has 14.2 volts on it.. or you can run it back closer to the battery at the starter selenoid and it will make sure the alternator gets that point to 14.2 volts at full charge.. that point is closer to the load so that if correctly gets the voltage at the right level nearer the battery. this remote sense was great for cars that ran wipers, defrosters, air conditioners, electric locks, electric windows, headlights, blinkers, heaters, radios, seat heaters and a billion other things the pull the voltage down a bunch, so the remote sense lead correctly kept the voltage near the battery and load at the right level.. In the case of the tractor where loads are usually about 15 amps max, the voltage sense lead can be simply straped to the battery output lead. and then a heavy cable run back to the selenoid or amp gauge.

 

[john in la]

Disregard the N and F and hook it up using the #1 and #2 per my diagram.

 

[Bob]

The CORRECT answer is that some of the EARLY (About 1972) 10SI-style Delco's did NOT have an internal regulator, and, in that situation, the "R" and "F" markings were the ones used, and the "1" and "2" marks were disregarded.

<img src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/424IH/Alternator%20Stuff/AlternatorHarness41.jpg">

If your's IS internally-regulated, use the "1" and "2" marks and disregard the others.

On the EARLY EXTERNALLY-regulated units, the terminal arrangement was I I .

On the INTERNALLY-regulated units, the terminal arrangement is -- -- .

 

[mpdhorsecop]

I had them right John. Just wanted to be sure. Got spooked when I saw those letters below the #'s. Had a bad alternator and the NAPA guys swapped it out after testing. Got the new one tested before I left. (advice from Sounder)
Hit the switch, light came on, started'er up and the light went out. Thanks guys for the help. Time to get to work.

 

[mpdhorsecop]

Bob that's a great shot! I appreciate it. Confirmed my wiring too.