110 plug female

[caterpillar guy]

I need a 110 plug configuration for about 25-30. amps. The Ac unit in the window has a molded plug on it of that style with about a 10or12 gag wire on it. Pg on cord /pigtail is fine plugs on the cord to it keep burning out the inside with these cheesy cheap 110 volt plugs I can get. One of the BS things about all these codes. They want a big heavy wire then make these cheesy pieces inside of plugs and switches to work the load and are so much less capable than the wire they want used. Such a line of crap on these codes. IF the pug on the unit is to light then why would a manufacturer put some thing like that on there if it needs more pug capacity. Just seems like nobody makes a plug to do the job on these things like that even on the bin augers I have some trouble with plugs for 20 amp on a 5 HP motor only drawing 21or 22 amps. I change one of those about each year or 2. Running those motors on 220 with 10or 12 ga wire and not over 20 feet from the box. One is less more like about 10 and the other is only about 3 feet further.

 

[miangus]

There seems to be a difference in quality between cheap plugs and the plugs from Hubbel and Leviton. For an appliance like an air-conditioned which can have a near continuous load I would also upgrade the receptacle to a single 20-Amp unit, which I believe is a code requirement. The standard duplex receptacle is only rated for 15-Amps, but the code allows its use on a 20 Amp circuit. I use the actual 20-Anp rated duplex plugs in my shop, they last longer.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

This may help you. I've been using 20 amp receptacles whenever I replace one. The plugs fit more firmly. Go to an electrical supply for better plugs.

 

[504]

I also replace my outlets with 20 amp ones. I have had three outlets go bad in the last twenty years, all installed incorrectly by the electrician who wired this house when it was built (20) years ago

 

[Mule Meat]

Levitron T5825, 20 amp outlet sounds about what you need along with a 20 amp breaker.

 

[Dusty MI]

How were they installed incorrectly? Just curious.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

How were they installed incorrectly? Just curious.

Seems simple enough but it happens. Black to brass, white to light, bare to ground is the rule. Didn't used to matter much but now most plugs have a wider prong for the "grounded' (used to be called neutral) wire.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Thing is the 20A is the same as a 15A, just with one blade turned 90 degrees. Same cheesy construction.

Step up to 30A plugs and receptacles. The NEMA TT-30, or "RV plug" is common and widely available. There's also the 5-30, and if you want to go twist-lock, the L5-30. Being from an IT background I'd probably pick the twist-lock

 

[Dusty MI]

15 amp receptacle is rated to only carry, and run through 15 amps. 20 amp is rated to carry 20 amp, and run through 20 amps.

 

[Non-farmer]

I also replace my outlets with 20 amp ones. I have had three outlets go bad in the last twenty years, all installed incorrectly by the electrician who wired this house when it was built (20) years ago

Small world. My house also is 20 years old, and I too had issues with the electrician my contractors referred me to. Happy ending, tho - because of those issues, I learned the craft myself, and have bent countless 1/2" EMTs for my basement. They look great, and no fires

 

[Janicholson]

I need a 110 plug configuration for about 25-30. amps. The Ac unit in the window has a molded plug on it of that style with about a 10or12 gag wire on it. Pg on cord /pigtail is fine plugs on the cord to it keep burning out the inside with these cheesy cheap 110 volt plugs I can get. One of the BS things about all these codes. They want a big heavy wire then make these cheesy pieces inside of plugs and switches to work the load and are so much less capable than the wire they want used. Such a line of crap on these codes. IF the pug on the unit is to light then why would a manufacturer put some thing like that on there if it needs more pug capacity. Just seems like nobody makes a plug to do the job on these things like that even on the bin augers I have some trouble with plugs for 20 amp on a 5 HP motor only drawing 21or 22 amps. I change one of those about each year or 2. Running those motors on 220 with 10or 12 ga wire and not over 20 feet from the box. One is less more like about 10 and the other is only about 3 feet further.

For extension cord caps (male or female) google Hospital grade Extension cord caps

 

[Brian G. NY]

ny

Thing is the 20A is the same as a 15A, just with one blade turned 90 degrees. Same cheesy construction.

Step up to 30A plugs and receptacles. The NEMA TT-30, or "RV plug" is common and widely available. There's also the 5-30, and if you want to go twist-lock, the L5-30. Being from an IT background I'd probably pick the twist-lock

I don't know how "cheesy" the average outlet is....seems to me it depends on who makes them....ya gets what ya pays for.
It is common practice to use 15 amp outlets fed by 20 amp breakers and 12-2 w/Gr cable. Meets code here in my neck of the woods.

 

[John T]

You stated 110 Volts and 25 to 30 amps sooooooooooo here are a few choices:

Some window ACs Ive seen use a 125 Volt 20 Amp 2 Pole 3 Wire Grounding NEMA 5-20P Plug.............

HOWEVER you stated 110 Volts and 25/30 Amps, so a 2 Pole 3 Wire Grounding 125 Volt 30 amp NEMA 5-30 or L5 -30 for a locking works

For 125/250 Volts 2 Pole 3 Wire Grounding 30 Amp, a NEMA 10-30 orrrrrrrrrrr a NEMA TT-30 (but thats typically for an RV)

While for a typical 120 Volt AC you only need 3 wires being Hot Neutral and Ground (2 Pole 3 Wire Grounding Plug) but for many clothes dryers that use 120 and 240, you need 4 wires (Hot 1, Hot 2, Neutral, Ground) 3 Pole 4 wire.

No warranty my eyes arent too good at small pics or print grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

John T

 

[Geo-TH,In]

I need a 110 plug configuration for about 25-30. amps. The Ac unit in the window has a molded plug on it of that style with about a 10or12 gag wire on it. Pg on cord /pigtail is fine plugs on the cord to it keep burning out the inside with these cheesy cheap 110 volt plugs I can get. One of the BS things about all these codes. They want a big heavy wire then make these cheesy pieces inside of plugs and switches to work the load and are so much less capable than the wire they want used. Such a line of crap on these codes. IF the pug on the unit is to light then why would a manufacturer put some thing like that on there if it needs more pug capacity. Just seems like nobody makes a plug to do the job on these things like that even on the bin augers I have some trouble with plugs for 20 amp on a 5 HP motor only drawing 21or 22 amps. I change one of those about each year or 2. Running those motors on 220 with 10or 12 ga wire and not over 20 feet from the box. One is less more like about 10 and the other is only about 3 feet further.

I've never seen a 115v window AC use more than 15 amps.
All 110v window AC are suppose to be on a single circuit, so a 12g ware. 20a recpt, and a 20 amp breaker is all you need.
Go to Amazon. The biggest 120v window AC B&D

BLACK+DECKER Window Air Conditioner 14300 BTU, AC Window Unit Cools Up to 700 Square Feet, Window AC Unit with Remote Control, 3 Cooling Speeds and Fan Only Function, BD145WT6, White​

• Unit dimensions of 21.5” x 19” x 14.6”
• Unit weight of 69.44 lbs.
• 10.9 CEER
• R-32 Refrigerant
• 115V, 60Hz, 11.8A

No need to overthink it.

 

[buickanddeere]

Thing is the 20A is the same as a 15A, just with one blade turned 90 degrees. Same cheesy construction.

Step up to 30A plugs and receptacles. The NEMA TT-30, or "RV plug" is common and widely available. There's also the 5-30, and if you want to go twist-lock, the L5-30. Being from an IT background I'd probably pick the twist-lock

15 and 20 amp duplex U-Ground can be had in industrial grade or hospital grade .

 

[Ericp351]

Remember NOT to try to go 25+ amps thru vintage 14 Ga. wire- regardless of any snazzy plug/ outlet ya buy.

 

[kencombs]

Yes, the NEC typically requires that motors over 3 HP be hardwired instead of using standard plugs and receptacles, as there are no plugs rated for higher HP. This is to ensure safety and compliance with electrical codes.

I asked " do 5hp motors have to be hardwired per NEC'. Above is the answer.

The starting surge heats the plug/recpt and the running load never allows them to cool. And the 80% rule also comes into play. 15A is the design continuous load for a 20a circuit, including plugs/recpts.

Lots of discussion about hard wiring air compressors when guys upgrade from smaller units to the common 5hp 60/80 gallon ones.

 

[Watthour]

I find that confusing, since I still have catalogs full of 200A+ receptacles and plugs, like Ralco, Hubbell, ABB, Eaton, and numerous others. Most of those are also rated for live de-contacting a load up to their full rating.

 

[kencombs]

I find that confusing, since I still have catalogs full of 200A+ receptacles and plugs, like Ralco, Hubbell, ABB, Eaton, and numerous others. Most of those are also rated for live de-contacting a load up to their full rating.

Yeah, I know but note the price of the pin and sleeve products. Not many are in a homeowners price range for an air compressor. Then there is the HP rating vs the amperage rating. The NEC makes clear distinction in that the two are not the same. A 21A motor may be 5hp but requires different wiring solution than a 21A resistive load for instance.

OTOH I've been running a 5hp 240v 3ph motor on 12ga THNN in conduit for years. And have checked the temp in breaker box and J box a number of times with a laser thermometer and no temp rise over ambient noted.

 

[moresmoke]

Yeah, I know but note the price of the pin and sleeve products. Not many are in a homeowners price range for an air compressor. Then there is the HP rating vs the amperage rating. The NEC makes clear distinction in that the two are not the same. A 21A motor may be 5hp but requires different wiring solution than a 21A resistive load for instance.

OTOH I've been running a 5hp 240v 3ph motor on 12ga THNN in conduit for years. And have checked the temp in breaker box and J box a number of times with a laser thermometer and no temp rise over ambient noted.

You draw 2/3 the amps on 3 phase that you do on single phase. And starting is much easier as you are not trying to charge a capacitor on the start. Your motor should be running around 15 amp at full load, which 12 ga would handle.