110 plug female

[caterpillar guy]

I find it doesn't matter who's plugs by brand I buy none of them stand up anymore. I have plug trouble with all of them unless I go to 50 amp plugs for everything. I even had to finally change out one of those after 15or 20 years use. They all just seem to burn out the guts to them .Even if I put a rated or over rated plug on things. There is no spring to the pieces in these new plugs so if they get used in a slightly off direct plug in the prongs in the plugs can't make a good connection. Like somebody pushes them in at even the slightest bit of an angle or the female will not make the connection. When they used to make the double piece prongs on the males ends I used to get a thin screw driver or knife blade inbetween them and open them up just a wee bit so they would then make contact and work. Now all these cheesy single piece junk can't do that with them and the females are so cheesy and junky they just can't handle the amperage they are rated for. I rarely ever use less than 12 ga wire for anything but a Christmas tree light bulb not even if there is 2 of them in the string it will have 12 ga. wire. I would not even use it to wire a plug for your charger for your razor or other innocuous item with less than 3 amps draw. I do believe I use big enough wire to carry the load with plenty of capacity for the use on things. So in the long run your telling me to just accept this junk with no heavier plugs available and I've been to our local electrical shop where most of the Wire burners go to get parts and wire. The only guy in there that used to know what I wanted to do and was good at helping with suggestions died so not there any longer the rest are pretty much just useful idiots.

 

[buickanddeere]

You draw 2/3 the amps on 3 phase that you do on single phase. And starting is much easier as you are not trying to charge a capacitor on the start. Your motor should be running around 15 amp at full load, which 12 ga would handle.

Actual the number is the square root of the number 3 .
Charging the capacitor is a non issue .
The three phase advantage is that of constant application of torque on the rotor. With a true rotating magnetic field .
A single phase motor just pulses a stationary magnetic field . Needs an offset start winding to produce a phase shift .

 

[buickanddeere]

I find that confusing, since I still have catalogs full of 200A+ receptacles and plugs, like Ralco, Hubbell, ABB, Eaton, and numerous others. Most of those are also rated for live de-contacting a load up to their full rating.

Largest I have seen is a 600V, 600 amp with five pins .

 

[Destroked 450]

So which style plug those your ac unit have

20 amp and 30 amp are different
What is the amp rating on the ac unit
I’m not a electrician or engineer but I have helped a couple of industrial electrician friends on some wiring jobs with up to 2000 amp services
The number one rule was no circuit should have a continuous load of more than 80% of max rating of that circuit, therefore a 20 amp using 12 gauge wire should never have a continuous load of more than 16 amps, and even then it should be on its own dedicated circuit
Those 21-22 amp auger motors should be on a 30 amp circuit with 10 gauge wire and a line of sight disconnect switch to remove the load before plugging or unplugging the cord

 

[John T]

Yes, the NEC typically requires that motors over 3 HP be hardwired instead of using standard plugs and receptacles, as there are no plugs rated for higher HP. This is to ensure safety and compliance with electrical codes.

I asked " do 5hp motors have to be hardwired per NEC'. Above is the answer.

The starting surge heats the plug/recpt and the running load never allows them to cool. And the 80% rule also comes into play. 15A is the design continuous load for a 20a circuit, including plugs/recpts.

Lots of discussion about hard wiring air compressors when guys upgrade from smaller units to the common 5hp 60/80 gallon ones.

Hey Ken, its good to see someone besides myself bring up the 80% Rule yayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy My long ago rules for sizing conductors was to
1) Compute the Max Continuous current 2) Size the conductors for 125% of the MCC 3) Size the overcurrent protection to protect the conductors

Again Ive see window AC cords with a NEMA 5-20P Plug

Nuff said

John T

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

15 and 20 amp duplex U-Ground can be had in industrial grade or hospital grade .

"Industrial grade" and "hospital grade" is a joke. They're no heavier internally than a cheap 59 cent outlet you can get at Home Depot.

 

[caterpillar guy]

Destroked: Its like the first one only both are even width. All before that stupid odd sized prongs on the plug. I guess I will just have to keep changing the plugs since I'm mot going to wire in a stove plug with 10or12 ga wire to run a 110 socket.

 

[Destroked 450]

I’ve had decent luck with good connections by bending the plugs blades out just a little, you have to work the plugs blades around a little to get the blades started but once inside the plug them out more side pressure on the inside contacts for a better connection
As for the bin augers it your pulling that many amp continuously you need to upsize the wire and look at 30 amp generator plugs or twist lock type plugs, if your staring the motor by plugging in the cord and unplugging to stop the arcing in the plug will eventually burn out the plug, some type of disconnect switch is needed to power up the motor after the cord is plugged in and turned off before disconnecting the cord

 

[caterpillar guy]

Destroked: I agree on the disconnect just have not put one in yet. Been using the breaker for the on/ off switch .Which is not so good either. Big problem is the other parties involved.they don't see the need for the disconnects on the bins. I would like to hard wire the on bin in so there is no extension cord just flip the switch on or off. As for the other it is a bit more involved to wire it in and not have the wire in the way of equipment between the bins as we some times run a loader or telehandler in there to put the sweep auger in the one bin . I'm also working on a method to not have to lift it in there all the time or all the way.

 

[buickanddeere]

???

 

[Destroked 450]

Destroked: I agree on the disconnect just have not put one in yet. Been using the breaker for the on/ off switch .Which is not so good either. Big problem is the other parties involved.they don't see the need for the disconnects on the bins. I would like to hard wire the on bin in so there is no extension cord just flip the switch on or off. As for the other it is a bit more involved to wire it in and not have the wire in the way of equipment between the bins as we some times run a loader or telehandler in there to put the sweep auger in the one bin . I'm also working on a method to not have to lift it in there all the time or all the way.

Nothing wrong with a proper cord for equipment that has to be moved around or where hard wiring makes it inconvenient or a hazard. However I am a strong advocate for some type of disconnect switch either mounted on a piece of moveable equipment or within line of sight of any operating equipment, if you can stand at that piece of equipment and see the breaker panel that’s line of sight. Turning equipment on and off with a breaker is not ideal but I have done that as a temporary means, long term temporary a few times.

 

[Janicholson]

There seems to be a difference in quality between cheap plugs and the plugs from Hubbel and Leviton. For an appliance like an air-conditioned which can have a near continuous load I would also upgrade the receptacle to a single 20-Amp unit, which I believe is a code requirement. The standard duplex receptacle is only rated for 15-Amps, but the code allows its use on a 20 Amp circuit. I use the actual 20-Anp rated duplex plugs in my shop, they last longer.

I also believe in Leveton products. Most of the cords I have are to be found with replacement cape (the term in industry) on both ends. Some are Hospital grade (believe that term is valid) and others are just expensive, as in 5 to 7 dollars per. None fail when running high amp tools.
Making sure the male "prongs" are clean and shiny is critical as well. Jim

 

[caterpillar guy]

I fnd the whole code deal a joke with the little tiny cheap junk for prongs in a plug or fixture then the rquirement for hevy wire that is about twice as heavy as the fixtures and plugs can handle such hipocrisy to it. And then chastize the public for what the so called experts call cobbling. I have not found any plugs that are any heavier in the components department than the cheapest one I can find just cheap junk not even the slightest bit capable of the job. I'd hate to be the one putting my name to the parts as a Manufacturer.

 

[buickanddeere]

I fnd the whole code deal a joke with the little tiny cheap junk for prongs in a plug or fixture then the rquirement for hevy wire that is about twice as heavy as the fixtures and plugs can handle such hipocrisy to it. And then chastize the public for what the so called experts call cobbling. I have not found any plugs that are any heavier in the components department than the cheapest one I can find just cheap junk not even the slightest bit capable of the job. I'd hate to be the one putting my name to the parts as a Manufacturer.

The heavy cable is also to reduce VD on long runs . Heavy cable also conducts heat away faster from the “ small “ contacts .

 

[caterpillar guy]

I understand the concept just seems like it would make sense to have a fixture solid enough to tighten up without the parts bending. I guess one of the reasons I hate electrical work is those cheesy fixtures and then the big wire for them. Sort of like using a 200HP tractor to disc the garden with a 8ft disk.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

I find it doesn't matter who's plugs by brand I buy none of them stand up anymore. I have plug trouble with all of them unless I go to 50 amp plugs for everything. I even had to finally change out one of those after 15or 20 years use. They all just seem to burn out the guts to them .Even if I put a rated or over rated plug on things. There is no spring to the pieces in these new plugs so if they get used in a slightly off direct plug in the prongs in the plugs can't make a good connection. Like somebody pushes them in at even the slightest bit of an angle or the female will not make the connection. When they used to make the double piece prongs on the males ends I used to get a thin screw driver or knife blade inbetween them and open them up just a wee bit so they would then make contact and work. Now all these cheesy single piece junk can't do that with them and the females are so cheesy and junky they just can't handle the amperage they are rated for. I rarely ever use less than 12 ga wire for anything but a Christmas tree light bulb not even if there is 2 of them in the string it will have 12 ga. wire. I would not even use it to wire a plug for your charger for your razor or other innocuous item with less than 3 amps draw. I do believe I use big enough wire to carry the load with plenty of capacity for the use on things. So in the long run your telling me to just accept this junk with no heavier plugs available and I've been to our local electrical shop where most of the Wire burners go to get parts and wire. The only guy in there that used to know what I wanted to do and was good at helping with suggestions died so not there any longer the rest are pretty much just useful idiots.

Honestly, I've never had anywhere near that much trouble. You must be doing something wrong. Big old 12,000 BTU AC units, worked just fine in normal 15A plugs.

 

[buickanddeere]

I understand the concept just seems like it would make sense to have a fixture solid enough to tighten up without the parts bending. I guess one of the reasons I hate electrical work is those cheesy fixtures and then the big wire for them. Sort of like using a 200HP tractor to disc the garden with a 8ft disk.

imagine the size, weight, noise, expense and maintenance of a diesel engine to do the same work as that electric motor .

 

[caterpillar guy]

I think you missed some thing here the tractor was to work the garden not run an AC unit. I probably am doing something wrong usually am according to most who know me. As for the plugs they are all still junk.

 

[buickanddeere]

I think you missed some thing here the tractor was to work the garden not run an AC unit. I probably am doing something wrong usually am according to most who know me. As for the plugs they are all still junk.

Consumer Plugs are manufacture as cheap as possible and to meet the UL or CSA standards for a few hours .
The only reliable 15 or 20 amp duplex plugs and receptacles are industrial cost $20 or more each . Hospital grade does for over $100 each .
Any factory installed molded on plug or receptacle on an extension cord is just an accident waiting to happen .