12 volt alternator

[Dawgbone]

Where can I pick up one for my 8N? Would like one with low amp and one that doesn't cost too much.

 

[Ultradog MN]

A typical 65 amp 10-SI will produce more
power than you can use. But they are
probably the most common and therefore the
cheapest.
Any Napa, Oreillys or other major parts
store will probably have a couple in stock.
A lot of places can't find anything any
more without a make, model and year.
If that is the case tell them it is for a
1975 Chevy 10 pickup.

 

[old]

O'Reilly's has them. You want one made for say a 1980 Chevy pickup no power anything no AC and it will be around 35amp and cost $50-75. Been a while since I got the last one and with inflation they most likely have gone up. Last one I got was $53 plus core alternator

 

[Dawgbone]

Great and thank you. Will the 65 amp be self exciting?

 

[Dawgbone]

Also is this a one wire?

 

[old]

Not a one wire but a 3 wire. One wire last one I got cost me $80 at O'Reilly's and you have to rev the engine up to max RPM to get it to start charging but sa 3 wire starts charging as soon as the engine starts and cost a lot less

 

[Dawgbone]

I'm not familiar with the 3 wire so where would each wire go?

 

[Denny K]

Buy the pulley that this site sells whch for about $23.00 and is about 2.625 od and is made to fit the 5/8 fan belt. A larger pulley will have to be spun faster before it starts charging. I experienced this with my 8N. Old generator pulley was too large.

 

[old]

Didn't you send me an e-mail?? If you did I answered you that way and even gave you my home number

 

[Dawgbone]

Ok thanks

 

[Dawgbone]

Try this one [email protected]

 

[Dawgbone]

Not sure what happened. I didn't get anything.

 

[old]

Check your spam area of e-mail. My Hughes net e-mail seem to mess with many sites and e-mail servers. I did try calling you but that didn't work either

 

[Dawgbone]

Got them thank you.

 

[Jim L WA]

I have 3 tractors all with 1 wire alternators. They each have a different personality so to speak. One starts charging right away, one will start after revving up about 1/3 throttle and the other needs to be revved way up like Old said. They all have the 5/8 wide pulley on them.

 

[Dawgbone]

Yeah, I had a one wire on mine that had to be revved up to almost full throttle before it started charging. It finally quit working so I'm
going to town next week to get a 3 wire one.

 

[R Geiger]

(quoted from post at 19:33:03 12/10/22) Yeah, I had a one wire on mine that had to be revved up to almost full throttle before it started charging. It finally quit working so I'm
going to town next week to get a 3 wire one.

I have two 8ns with 1 wire alternators and they both charge with out raising the RPMs very high. Fast idle and they charge just fine. Got them from this site!

 

[old]

Your lucky then. My late 1950 8N I am lucky if it charges unless I rev it up to high RPM. It has had a 1 wire on it for decades now and was on it when my dad got it in the mid 80s

 

[Bruce(OR)]

Self exciting at a lower RPM usually takes a different internal voltage regulator that will wake up at 400 RPM.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

The DELCO 10-SI, 1-WIRE ALTERNATOR is a popular choice for many here, and you can get anywhere parts are sold as mentioned. There is also a 10-SI 3 WIRE unit you can
use too. Be sure you understand the 6V/POS GRN system first and if you have an early 8N with the front mount distributor or a later 8N with the side mount distributor
- it matters. If you are having starting issues, just going to 12V may not solve the problem - if it won't start on 6V what makes you think it will on 12V? There is
nothing wrong with 12V but then there's nothing wrong with 6V either. Whichever setup you choose does matter if it is correctly wired. Early N's (39-50) used the front
mount distributor which required the OEM Ballast Resistor. Later 8N's and after using the side mount distributor did not use the Ballast Resistor. When doing a 12V
conversion, advise to swap out 6V coil with a 12V coil, but will need an external 1-OHM ceramic resistor in the coil circuit if you choose to use a 6V Coil. The 8N and
after FORD 6V setup also uses a GENERATOR with a VOLTAGE REGULATOR -see PICTOGRAMS. With the 12V setup both GEN and VR are removed from the circuit and the ALT is
used. A common mistake made by some when attempting a 12V job is to leave the VR in the circuit which will cause problems, non-starting mainly. Another common mistake
whether if using a GEN or an ALT is the failure to use belt tensioning device. Without proper fan belt tension, you will never charge the battery. Some opt to swap out
the AMMETER for a VOLTMETER when doing 12V as shown in PICTOGRAMS. I prefer an AMMETER for technical reasons. My final advice is to invest in the ESSENTIAL MANUALS and
diagrams and read religiously, especially if you are a newbie.


WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR:

FORD TRACTOR ELECTRICAL DIAGRAM, AFTER S/N 8N-263843, 6V/POS GRN:

Tim Daley(MI)

 

[warbaby]

I use a 1980's-1990's GM CS-130 alternator. Theyre 20-30 bucks at a junk yard. Make your own brackets, use a hardware store turnbuckle for belt tensioning, and
a fuse type GM diode inline from the ignition switch to the alternator's exciter circuit to keep it from back-feeding your coil and youre charging 10+ amps at
idle for under 50 bucks in no time!

 

[Eman85]

(quoted from post at 18:33:03 12/10/22) Yeah, I had a one wire on mine that had to be revved up to almost full throttle before it started charging. It finally quit working so I'm
going to town next week to get a 3 wire one.

Your 1 wire most likely has all 3 terminals, have you tried energizing it with a jumper wire at idle? You can wire just like a 3 wire and it should work instead of buying another alt. or buy a reg and put it in yours.

This post was edited by Eman85 on 12/11/2022 at 09:31 am.

 

[old]

At one time I thought that also but the one on my 8N if I try to excite it by jumping to the charge post does nothing

 

[Hobo,NC]

(quoted from post at 21:50:36 12/11/22) I use a 1980's-1990's GM CS-130 alternator. Theyre 20-30 bucks at a junk yard. Make your own brackets, use a hardware store turnbuckle for belt tensioning, and
a fuse type GM diode inline from the ignition switch to the alternator's exciter circuit to keep it from back-feeding your coil and youre charging 10+ amps at
idle for under 50 bucks in no time!

I did not have your luck on my first C130 it went up in smoke soon after I installed it.

The main activation lead is the "L" terminal on the plug, the "L" terminal must have a resisted ignition wire to the "L" terminal. Resistance can be obtained thru use af a resistor or you can use the 194 bulb no charge light as the resistor, the 194 light bulb will supply proper resistance. CAUTION: if you connect a full 12 volts to the "L" terminal without the resistor or proper light bulb, it will cause the voltage regulator to fail, sometimes fast and sometimes slow.



https://alternatorparts.com/gm-delco-remy-cs130-alternator-wiring-diagram.html

 

[Eman85]

CAUTION: if you connect a full 12 volts to the "L" terminal without the resistor or proper light bulb, it will cause the voltage regulator to fail, sometimes fast and sometimes slow.

Never heard of that before, I've wired a lot of cars using just a diode to prevent backfeed. My 8N has been wired with a diode for over 20 years with no bulb inline.

 

[Hobo,NC]

NOTE for a CS-130

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 13:11:12 12/12/22)
NOTE for a CS-130

ome posters don't read, just talk. To others, an alternator is an alternator, no matter 10DN, 10SI, CS130, etc. :roll:

 

[Eman85]

I wired a CS130 on an S10 with a V8 conversion and didn't use a bulb or resistor.