12 volt wiring

[IMAMAC]

Ok, so I have a Ford 9N. I installed a 12V conversion kit. I tried to start it, it didn't fire up, I have no spark.

I see that my original 6V resistor is toasted so that is probably the problem. I thought I followed the (very poor) instructions and had it hooked up properly
but I guess not.

Can anyone take a look at this picture and tell me what I need to do to fix it?

The red wire is coming from the alternator. The brown wire from the coil.

Thanks much!

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Does it have a 12v coil? If so, all you need is the OEM ballast resistor. Get rid of the ceramic resistor.

Google "wiring diagrams JMOR " and find the diagram that fits your tractor.
75 Tips

 

[IMAMAC]

Yes, it has a 12 v coil. It came with the conversion kit.

I don't know what you mean about a ballast resistor, is that the original 6V resistor that cooked when hit with 12V? That would be the top resistor, which is mounted horizontally in the posted pic.

The ceramic resistor came with the kit. I mounted it on the side as you can see in the pic. If I "get rid" of it, what am I supposed to do with the wires? I really need more detailed instruction.

Thanks

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Get another ballast resistor. This site or nnalert's has them. Remove the ceramic resistor and follow the JMOR wiring diagram.

If you have both resistors and a 12v coil, you will have to much resistance in the circuit and get a weak or no spark.

See tip # 30.
75 Tips

 

[Bruce (VA)]

The top resistor is the OEM Ballast resistor. It's not a 6v resistor. It's measured in ohms, no volts. Unlike a fixed resistor (the ceramic one) the ballast resistor is .03 ohms cold and 1.7 ohms red hot. That means you get more current to the coil for a cold start, but not a lot of current when the tractor is running. All you need when it's running is 3.5 amps.More than that and the coil will burn up.

 

[HCooke]

Do what Bruce says. Ditch the white ceramic resistor.

 

[IMAMAC]

Ok, thanks Bruce. So, When I replace the ballast resistor and remove the ceramic resistor, Im going to hook the brown wire that feeds the coil directly to the ballast resistor and remove the orange wire? Correct? The JMOR wiring diagram shows the big yellow wire that feeds the starter switch going to the center post of the ballast resistor. The instructions with the 12V kit show it going to the ammeter. Could that have caused this? So, Im going to hook the big yellow wire to the center terminal on the bottom of the ballast resistor like the JMOR says instead. Please stop me if this is incorrect.... Thanks very much!!

 

[HFJ]

"Im going to hook the brown wire that feeds the coil directly to the ballast resistor and remove the orange wire? Correct?"

correct. i'll leave the other question(s) to someone here with a full deck. my cards are marked, but i won't swear they're all there

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 13:17:17 08/27/16)
"Im going to hook the brown wire that feeds the coil directly to the ballast resistor and remove the orange wire? Correct?"

correct. i'll leave the other question(s) to someone here with a full deck. my cards are marked, but i won't swear they're all there

Could that have caused this?" No. From where you are, I would recommend leaving the large yellow & large read where they are on the ammeter, but move the small wire on ammeter to the opposite post of ammeter. Now you will have "NET" READING AMMETER (I.E., LOADS & CHARGING). It is not good to try to use part of one wiring diagram and part of another.

 

[IMAMAC]

ok, I installed a new starter switch, new starter, new battery cables. My tractor isn't even rolling over. I wired according to JMOR and I got no action. Can someone please take a look and see if they can see anything wrong? When I jump the starter post directly from the battery, it rolls fine.

I wonder if I fried the points when it tried to start with 2 resistors? Would toasted points keep the starter from rolling it over? I need this thing to run! Thanks to all for your expertise and generous help...

 

[JMOR]

None of that wiring in the picture has anything to do with the starter. If shorting the two start switch posts together make starter turn, then the problem is clearly with that starter switch.

 

[IMAMAC]

Ok, Im glad. I thought I was going nuts. Thank you very much.

 

[IMAMAC]

Thanks guys! I got it running with your help. The starter switch plunger was too short. I soldered two pennies on the plunger and make it longer. Everything works great. The ammeter reads total load too. Fantastic. I really appreciate the help.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 11:21:11 09/28/16) Thanks guys! I got it running with your help. The starter switch plunger was too short. I soldered two pennies on the plunger and make it longer. Everything works great. The ammeter reads total load too. Fantastic. I really appreciate the help.

ou are welcome. You are up & running, but just FYI, I expect that it was the wrong (earlier model, dash mtd, 9N11450A) starter switch, which is different than the later (neutral safety start switch, 9N11450B). Of course, I could be wrong, too. :wink: