1256/1466 compatability

DeltaRed

Well-known Member
Asking for a friend... Friend has a 1466 that burned the cab and all controls. The motor/trans were not hurt. The tires are also good. He found a 1256 with a bad engine. Can the 14 engine be transplanted.?Will the bell houseing fit? I know of other issues,so we are not completely blind....Thanks,Steve.
 
Why not just run it without the cab for a bit till you find a cab for it? I can't say about the engine swap but ,would not the cabs swap easier on them? A cab should be pretty reasonable to find for a 1466. About all they were good for was a wind block in the winter and rain in spring while finishing that last pass. When we put all new bearings and a set of ring and pinion in our 1466 about 10 years ago we ran it without the cab for a few years till my brother bought a 16 row planter .Then we put the cab back on so the monitor and controls for the planter fold would not be exposed to the weather. For got what a noisy box that was .It is the white cab that set out almost to the fuel cap. It's kind of a pain to get into with the opening in the tight front corner so you have to get in and then step back to the seat around the TA lever and corner of the dash. Might try that junkyard in Colfax IA they are just north of I-80 You can see them from the highway as you pas the exit. I talked to them about a used hydraulic pump for the combine. They seemed reasonable to deal with and knowledgeable they are a decent sized yard. Number is 515 674 3001.
 
Why not just run it without the cab for a bit till you find a cab for it? I can't say about the engine swap but ,would not the cabs swap easier on them? A cab should be pretty reasonable to find for a 1466. About all they were good for was a wind block in the winter and rain in spring while finishing that last pass. When we put all new bearings and a set of ring and pinion in our 1466 about 10 years ago we ran it without the cab for a few years till my brother bought a 16 row planter .Then we put the cab back on so the monitor and controls for the planter fold would not be exposed to the weather. For got what a noisy box that was .It is the white cab that set out almost to the fuel cap. It's kind of a pain to get into with the opening in the tight front corner so you have to get in and then step back to the seat around the TA lever and corner of the dash. Might try that junkyard in Colfax IA they are just north of I-80 You can see them from the highway as you pas the exit. I talked to them about a used hydraulic pump for the combine. They seemed reasonable to deal with and knowledgeable they are a decent sized yard. Number is 515 674 3001.
I dont think he is concerned about the cab.Burnrd all the wireing,seat.hydralics,warped hood,burned the paint off the rearend....I will talk to him about it more...
 
Long story short, the answer is "yes" with an *. Meaning, there are some compromises.

The DT436 engine from the 1466 is physically larger than the DT407 of the 1256. While the engine can be squeezed between the frame rails of the 1256, it's much easier to use the 1466 frame rails.

All the bolt holes will line up, but there is an extra 2" of meat on the 66 series bell housing so the frame rails will stick out about an inch on either side. You will need to make up spacers for between the frame rails and the 1256's front bolster. The frame rails will also make the tractor a few inches longer, requiring extending some lines and creates hood fitment issues. Nothing insurmountable.
 
If all it did was burn the hoses off the valves and seat and warp the hood. I'd just put some new hoses on it swap the seat from the 1256 . And swap the gage clusters out either by panel or the gages in the panels if they will not fit. the few wires needed to make it start charge and run and fuel tank and run it till I found a used hood or a junk unit with a good hood. those hoods are 3 pieces so the center piece would be pretty easy to straighten with just the 2 bends for the sides to set on top of the side panels. Change the o-rings in the hydraulic valve bodies if they leak from being hot and about all there is to that tractor. To eliminate a lot of wiring just swap the alternator to a internally regulated one and not much for wires since the regulator would be out of the picture on it. Most of the wiring behind the 2 dash panels would be in the ones on the 1256 so just unplug them and move there.
 
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