135 hydraulics

[Old massey135]

I have a Massey Ferguson 135 (I believe it is a 1969 model). The 3 point stopped operating correctly and I disassembled the top cover to take a look inside and make adjustments/look for broken parts etc. what I found inside has me a little confused. I stole this image from online because it had things laid out the way I could show what I was talking about the best. The “bushing” (red arrow) separated from the bracket(green arrow) that connects to the rod connecting position control on the top cover. Is anyone familiar with how they are mated? A fastener?are they pressed together? I can grab some other pictures of my actual tractor if needed to help explain. I’m just stumped because when I pulled the top cover the bushing had slid out of the rod and the adjustment bolt (yellow arrow) was backed out further than the one in this picture. Any help is greatly appreciated. Also if I am not using the proper terms for any of those pieces feel free to correct me. It may help in my search as I have spent hours on the internet with no schematic that has proved to be useful.

 

[painter*]

Can I ask what was the issue with the 3 pt? My 135 only works with the draft control. Position control does nothing.

 

[Old massey135]

Bought the tractor brought it home and went through all fluids. Everything worked well except that hydraulic fluid was pure milk. Then started not lifting at all after some use. I drained it again, flushed it, changes the filter etc. it wouldn’t lift anything heavy (200 lbs or more) with the pallet forks. I drained etc again and this time it would lift but wouldn’t go back down unless I lowered the throttle to the lowest idle and the position control handle felt “springy” it wanted to pull back even when lowered. Removed the lift cover and while inspecting all the linkage found this. Let me also add I have flushed and replaced the fluid 5 times over the past two years and it STILL looks like milk. I have purged everything I know to and it has been stored inside the barn, never say in the rain since I had it. I’m STUMPED.

 

[painter*]

I can understand your frustration.

 

[Jim.ME]

Bought the tractor brought it home and went through all fluids. Everything worked well except that hydraulic fluid was pure milk. Then started not lifting at all after some use. I drained it again, flushed it, changes the filter etc. it wouldn’t lift anything heavy (200 lbs or more) with the pallet forks. I drained etc again and this time it would lift but wouldn’t go back down unless I lowered the throttle to the lowest idle and the position control handle felt “springy” it wanted to pull back even when lowered. Removed the lift cover and while inspecting all the linkage found this. Let me also add I have flushed and replaced the fluid 5 times over the past two years and it STILL looks like milk. I have purged everything I know to and it has been stored inside the barn, never say in the rain since I had it. I’m STUMPED.

How high is humidity in your area and how large are temperature swings? Condensation can build up even setting under cover, more so if you don't get it out and run up to operating temperature and kept there for a time to evaporate the condensation out. What do you have for oil in it? If it sets for extended times have you tried cracking the drain plug loose until it just drips and see if the firs of what come out is water?

 

[Old massey135]

How high is humidity in your area and how large are temperature swings? Condensation can build up even setting under cover, more so if you don't get it out and run up to operating temperature and kept there for a time to evaporate the condensation out. What do you have for oil in it? If it sets for extended times have you tried cracking the drain plug loose until it just drips and see if the firs of what come out is water?

Huge swings. Never thought of that. I live in Alabama and the weather this year has been crazy. Weird that the last flush it was in my shop, it’s cold outside so not really humid and the next day I check the fluid and it is cream colored. Ruined all 8 gallons of new fluid. As for type of fluid first few changes I used STP (higher cost made be think better quality at $135/5 gallons) the last couple I used the cheapest I could find (tractor supply special $50/5 gallons) Because I didn’t want to ruin more “good” fluid.

Any thoughts on that connection issue with the linkage I mentioned in the original post?

 

[Jim.ME]

STP and Tractor supply are Brands, that doesn't tell which of their products you are using.

First question is do you have the MF135 service manual part number 1448813M1? If not, you should have a copy of that to guide you. I have a copy, but the pictures are so dark they just end up black in many areas when I have tried to copy or scan them.

 

[Old massey135]

STP and Tractor supply are Brands, that doesn't tell which of their products you are using.

First question is do you have the MF135 service manual part number 1448813M1? If not, you should have a copy of that to guide you. I have a copy, but the pictures are so dark they just end up black in many areas when I have tried to copy or scan them.

True, I apologize. I don’t have them in front of me to tell you the exact specs.

No sir I do not have the manual. I assume it is different from the Haynes manual? Don’t have that either but I have seen them numerous times and considered buying one. I like to learn the hard way I suppose. I will look up that part number you revised though. Thanks for that.

 

[Jim.ME]

True, I apologize. I don’t have them in front of me to tell you the exact specs.

No sir I do not have the manual. I assume it is different from the Haynes manual? Don’t have that either but I have seen them numerous times and considered buying one. I like to learn the hard way I suppose. I will look up that part number you revised though. Thanks for that.

I prefer the OEM manuals or a reprint of it. The I&T manuals are more condensed and are for better as a second resource to me. You can find good used ones on eBay at times. Read carefully as some are just sections of the manual.

 

[Homegrown1]

Attached is a picture of my controls when I pulled them a few years ago. Seems my "bushing" is under the locknut inside of the "bracket", not outside of it. This is from a 1965 MF135 Deluxe. Hope this helps.

 

[Ray,IN]

A 135 has hyd 2 drain plugs, each one, if not drained can retain about 2 qts of liquid. Water heavier than oil, so that 2 qts is mostly water.

 

[Old massey135]

Attached is a picture of my controls when I pulled them a few years ago. Seems my "bushing" is under the locknut inside of the "bracket", not outside of it. This is from a 1965 MF135 Deluxe. Hope this helps.View attachment 102941

The bushing has a shoulder on it that keeps it from pulling through the bracket that the locknut is on. It appears to have been brazed in whether that be factory or something that was done by whomever was into the tractor before. (Red arrow). Also on the arm (green arrow) that knurled screw is not on mine. I wonder if that’s necessary for everything to work correctly.

 

[Old massey135]

A 135 has hyd 2 drain plugs, each one, if not drained can retain about 2 qts of liquid. Water heavier than oil, so that 2 qts is mostly water.

I have not found the other drain plug. I agree that is the issue. I just need to look a little closer apparently. Thanks for the reply

 

[Homegrown1]

The bushing has a shoulder on it that keeps it from pulling through the bracket that the locknut is on. It appears to have been brazed in whether that be factory or something that was done by whomever was into the tractor before. (Red arrow). Also on the arm (green arrow) that knurled screw is not on mine. I wonder if that’s necessary for everything to work correctly.

That knurled knob is the adjustment that the roller/follower rides on. Look at the attached photo and diagram to see how the pivoting arm with the roller actuates the three point valve. If I remember correctly, there's not much friction when you turn this knob, so it could back out of the arm under severe vibration. I'd look for the adjustment knob in the bottom of the transmission housing.