135 manual steering

[rmissildine]

Anyone ever done a manual steering gear box overhaul/rebuild?

I'm working on my 1970 MF 135 diesel manual steering. Using the AGCO parts books, there are several items that I can't locate. Also a couple of them were not in my gear box. Some of the items are listed below. I haven't checked with a Massey Ferguson dealer yet, I was hoping perhaps that there may be a bushing and seal kit out there, those are the most important pieces I need. Also the parts diagram shows a "plug" going in the bottom below the shaft and worm gear bearing. Any idea what that is?

Need help finding the following parts. Can't find them anywhere.

1- 180553M1 Pittman shaft bushings, I can find the correct size, but the company has a min. order of 10, and their $10.00 ea.

2- 1090346M1 Pittman shaft oil seals. Can't find them anywhere.

3- 180562M1 Pittman shaft dust seals. Can't find them anywhere.

All help is greatly appreciated...

Thanks,
Roger

 

[hymie2lt]

Hi Roger
All three parts should be available from your Massey dealership. If you need more help get back to me.
Wayne

 

[rmissildine]

(quoted from post at 14:47:32 07/01/21) Hi Roger
All three parts should be available from your Massey dealership. If you need more help get back to me.
Wayne

Thanks Wayne, I plan on calling them in the morning. Do you know anything about these gear boxes?

Thanks again,
Roger

 

[hymie2lt]

Roger
No, I have never done that particular steering box....sorry.
Wayne

 

[restogreen]

Roger
I just worked on my 71 mf 135 manual steering . I was able to use the bearing cup in the bottom and replace the upper cup as well as new multi spherical bearings ; on a new shaft/bearing assy Total $300.

looked like the cup in bottom is a freeze plug

The bearing set is common to ford tractors also (8n,,,,, part number)

You might be better off to order the complete reman steering gearbox /shift cover assy from All States Ag Parts which I think is around $500-600? (since bushings may not be available??)

General failure caused by grease worm infestation over the years as no one ever check the gear oil in the steering gearbox which is under the battery!
I have a 64 MF 35 deluxe also
Restogreen Arkansas

 

[rmissildine]

Thanks Restogreen. I was actually able to find all the parts at a Massey dealer down in Dothan, Al. Well, almost all. They had to order the seals and I'm just waiting for them to come in. My lower race was removable. A small slide inside bearing puller got it out. after cleaning everything up, I refit the pittman shafts in the bushings, no play or wobble so they should be good.

Thanks,
Roger

 

[restogreen]

(reply to post at 13:43:58 07/01/21) [/quo

I found these steps may be helpful when installing the steering shaft in new bearings or if apart etc.

The bearings can slightly mis align when installing steering tube down and onto the shaft/ball nut assy.
HERE is an easy way to prevent this:
1) Remove steady bearing at top of tube temporarily so you can VISUALLY see that the steering shaft is CENTERED within the tube as you lower the tube assy and start to preload the upper and lower bearings. These bearings are spherical and have same races/cups.
2) Lower tube down and tighten all four bolts probably a flat at a time to keep even pressure on bearings (watching shaft remains in center of tube!
Rotate shaft back /forth just slightly thru this process to ensure the bearings DO NOT LOCK ! This will keep seating BOTH bearings to the final preload stage (OR topoint where you are determining a shim pack if new shaft installed.

Install steering wheel and see if you can move shaft up/down.....
You shouldn't be able to BUT the slight preload on the bearings shouls allow about 1-5 ft lbs easy rotation at wheel rim with NO
binding at any point thru the 3 turns lock to lock (1.5 turns being center

3. Look in the hole on RH side and make sure you installed the steering rack to the center so it will mesh with the pittman sectors (OH CRAP MOMENT)
4)When done, installing arms, The mid point of the ie 3 turns lock to lock will allow one steering spoke to point at 6 oclock
and other 2 to be at 10/2 so the max view of gauges and dash visible ; wheels will be straight ahead with 1/4 toe in.

Note steering wheel is keyed; therefore if steering wheel is correct position BUT wheels are slightly turned, then you will have to adjust tie rods to equal lengths as to have wheels travel straight ahead AND a 1/4 toe in. (If someone replaced a ball joint can cause this not to be correct.

So , If you aren't particular, then all is well and I don't care either. But remember "A mans work is his signature"
Doing it otherwise will allow you to learn "Cursive"

Restogreen

 

[rmissildine]

You pretty much described how I did the replacement of the new shaft and bearings. While never have I done a steering box rebuild, being an old retired Navy diesel mechanic has taught me some of those tricks as they relate to a lot of mechanical items. The one I didn't know or had not thought of was the position of the steering wheel which I will keep in mind. My new shaft has two woodruff key slots so I should be able to locate it in the correct position when installing the steering wheel.
Thanks for all your input. Just waiting on the new oil seals and dust shields so I can finish up...

Thanks again,
Roger