140 Front End

[Skip Burney]

The front axle on my 140 moves back and forth when I am mowing with it not left to right but front to back. The tie rods and steering are tight but the entire front axle moves. There are no radius rods or anything to keep it tight I was just wondering if this was normal or not. It looks like it is rotating underneath the steering box.

 

[khouse6]

not normal. something is wrong

 

[used red MN]

Probably something wrong with mounting, loose or worn with the pivot pin 19 in subsection 14-2 of the diagram that O have linked. Jack up the front end and check it out.
CNHI Farmall 140 part diagram

 

[fastfarmall]

Look close for play on the Horizontal shaft,you need to get some machine bushings,with the closeing tab if possible.You got to figure out what size shaft it is first though, measure it with a caliper, or look it up in parts manual.

 

[caterpillar guy]

Replace the pivot pin and bushings then shim it front back or center if no grease fitting then drill for one.

 

[gene bender]

YES THATS where you need to get some new parts take it apart so you can find where the worn areas are. Then get the new parts and you are good to go

 

[Brownie450]

Our A had a broken pivot pin which meant a lot
of play like yours. It is an inch pin, & we made
our own. Grind a groove where the tightening bolt
goes through the pin.
Worst case is if the casting is broken.
Jim

 

[Skip Burney]

I will get it apart and turn me a new pin on the lathe I have some 2 inch round stainless so I will turn a new pin and make some bushings

 

[Skip Burney]

There is a horizontal shaft that has some slop in it and it looks like it has a clampon each end does anyone possible have a drawing of the pivot pin I cant find it in the parts section

 

[gene bender]

THE ONE FOR AN A is 1inch at each end but a little smaller in the middle where the bushings goes for grease to lube the joint. So you only need the 1 inch at the end where the bolt goes to hold the pin. Your bushings are at each end of the tube on the axle turn down the pin some so there is room for lube in that area. I made the bushings out of steel even though the original was brass

 

[Jim Becker]

Are you saying the axle has some play front to back but that both ends ONLY go the same direction at the same time? If the bushings in the axle are still reasonably tight on the pivot pin, maybe all you need is to add a flat bushing (shims if you prefer) between the axle and the housing that holds the pivot pin.

The pin is a plain pin with a notch at each end where the clamp bolts go through. To remove the pin, the bolts have to be completely removed. You need to jack up the front of the tractor and thoroughly block it up for complete stability. Get some support under both sides of the axle and pull the pivot pin. (Partial removal may give you enough visibility to check for any damaged or worn parts.) Repair any parts (as described by others) and reassemble. If there is fore-aft slack, add shims to the pivot pin.

While inspecting, carefully check the area of the axle where the pivot pin goes through. Sometimes that area is cracked.

 

[Skip Burney]

Is the pivot pin the horizontal pin that runs front to back? I see
the clamps you are talking about. The way the front axle pivots
is one side will move forward and the other towards the back
and vise versa. The axle moves about 3/4 to 1 inch when it
moves. I can Jack it up and block it really well and then pull the
pin to see if its worn . I have some brass stock I can make the
bushings with and freeze them and put them in and then turn a
new pin to work with them. From what you are saying it sounds
like all I need to do is make new shims for the front and rear of
the pin to take up the slop am I correct?

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

(quoted from post at 21:51:09 05/08/22) Is the pivot pin the horizontal pin that runs front to back? I see
the clamps you are talking about. The way the front axle pivots
is one side will move forward and the other towards the back
and vise versa. The axle moves about 3/4 to 1 inch when it
moves. I can Jack it up and block it really well and then pull the
pin to see if its worn . I have some brass stock I can make the
bushings with and freeze them and put them in and then turn a
new pin to work with them. From what you are saying it sounds
like all I need to do is make new shims for the front and rear of
the pin to take up the slop am I correct?

You're really going to have to take it apart and see what it needs. Right now everyone is guessing at your problem based on your descriptions.

 

[Jim Becker]

(quoted from post at 07:18:43 05/09/22)
You're really going to have to take it apart and see what it needs. Right now everyone is guessing at your problem based on your descriptions.

Absolutely. Based on your added explanation, you can probably forget about my speculation about shimming at the pivot pin. 3/4 to an inch of movement makes me think that the problem is beyond worn bushings and pin. You will probably be doing some welding on the center section of the axle.

 

[Skip Burney]

I am wondering if the axle is worn and the hole wallowed out can I ream a bigger hole and turn a bushing and
weld it in and then go back with a new pivot pin and I can add a grease fitting to it also