1466 loader hydraulic

[Omalley65]

Can you plumb loader hydraulics on a 1466 in such a way that does Not use either of the rear auxiliary connections that run a batwing cutter with?

 

[caterpillar guy]

Yes you need a power beyond block/plate which would bolt to the side of the valves under the seat. IF your left hand valve has a slab on it all you need is the plate. If it does not have a piece on the outside there you then need to change the valve and add the plate for it to work like that. The plate lets oil flow through the plate to the loader valve which in turn make your loader work. Most tractors will just have an end valve. Another words both valves need to look like the inside one so the plate will stack right on the outside. There is a cast piece on the outside under the seat .You can work behind it or remove it. I take it out when working on the valves since it gives a lot more room and easier to get to the bolts holding the valve on. There are only 3 bolts in the valves. If it was me unless the o-rings got replaced recently I would also replace all the o-rings in and on the valves since you are already there. I also remove the seat doing this. IF it has the hydraulic seat it would be a bit more involved doing that.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Here is exactly how you do it:

 

[Omalley65]

Thanks for this valuable info. My books don’t tell me this nor do the young parts and service guys tell me. Thx

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Thanks for this valuable info. My books don’t tell me this nor do the young parts and service guys tell me. Thx

It's not a factory option so none of the factory documentation is going to tell you how to do it.

These tractors are also 50 years old and most of the guys that worked on them with any regularity are retired or have passed on. Nobody working at the dealership knows much about them anymore.

 

[caterpillar guy]

At discount hydraulics you can get extended length elbows to get that front port above the front one so they don't interfere so much and saves so much angling the lines to get into your PTO linkage. I also think there may have been room to put 90's i\on the power beyond block so you would not need to drill the holes through the seat support like in the video. I would have to look at ours closer for sure. I have looked at putting a third valve on ours and the lever would have to be on the left side since there is no place as they are made to put a third lever on the right. Sometimes spending a bit for new fittings works better with fewer fittings than cobbling with old not quite right fittings as this is being done. If he just used a hose to connect the 2 ports from one to the other when the loader is off would solve his concern about the pressure and deadheading the pump. Other wise I would probably do it just the same. If you add the second valve like in the video watch that you don't hit the seat mechanism with the fitting. I had to add a half inch under the seat on our 1466 when I made a change on it .It also has the hydraulic seat on it. As for that check valve shown in the beginning of the video our 806and 1466 does not have that but my 856 does. My 806 has outlets from the remote going up to the left die by the steering casting above the battery. My 856 has front remotes going on both sides under the platform. Those were originally for front mount equipment like front mount cultivators. I use the one on the 806 for the snow plow on one circuit. Never have used the ones on my 856 yet. His leak is why I say just go through the o-rings on the valves while they are off the tractor. they are 50 plus years old and probably the originals. Adjusting the detent is adjusted through that little plug in the back of the valve by popping it out then turn the screw till it is what you want. You can also remove the 3 balls and eliminate the detent on them. Other than draping the hoses underneath I like the way he did it basically.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

By the way if you miss this detail in the video you will need to purchase one additional "middle" valve to replace the "end" valve under the seat if you want to retain two factory valves. Middle valves are not cheap because everyone wants them for power beyond and third valve setups, and end valves are worthless because they're useless for power beyond setups. Last I looked it was around $1000 for the valve.

 

[caterpillar guy]

All State has used ones I just looked for around 500.00 and reconditioned ones for 970.00 plus core. Those are right off ASAP parts web site. That is for the open on both sides valve and a bit less for the close side used and more for the reconditioned closed side valve.

 

[Omalley65]

Thanks

 

[caterpillar guy]

Omalley I for got to mention if you want to be able to remove your loader and not have a problem with the deadheading the pump like in the video if you were to use the couplers to the loader valve as opposites you could just couple the ends together thus keeping the ends and couplers clean and out of the dirt and letting the oil flow as needed through the 2 hoses being connected. You can do it a couple ways either use a short hose for the loop and leave the longer ones on the loader when off or just couple the hoses from the loader on the tractor and couple them. Would just need to gather them up some so they don't drag.

 

[Omalley65]

Great idea. Thx