1486 powering steering hand pump

[darvin hartmann]

i had a powering steering hand pump from a IH1486 resealed at a hydraulic shop. when i put it back on the tractor and started the engine , it about tore the steering wheel out of my hand, maxing out all the way to the left . have taken it back twice and they keep saying that it checks out fine any ideas as to what it may be . thanks in advance

 

[Bob]

They are IDIOTS.

And not hydraulically inclined.

The gerotor is connected to the valve with a shaft that's splined at both ends.

The parts have to be "timed".

Which obviously they DIDN'T.

The procedure is in the shop manual.

The shop manual is at the shop, 25 miles away, so I can't give you specific timing details tonight.

 

[the tractor vet]

Ah yep they IS IDIOTS . More then likely they did not have to take it apart as the seal at the end of the shaft was the problem and it COULD HAVE been replaced while still in the tractor.

 

[Jim Naden]

(quoted from post at 21:17:06 12/06/14) Ah yep they IS IDIOTS . More then likely they did not have to take it apart as the seal at the end of the shaft was the problem and it COULD HAVE been replaced while still in the tractor.

Not possible to reseal the input end of a hand pump on an 86 series tractor without removing the hand pump.

 

[pete 23]

I won't use the word Idiot because I guess I may have done something similar years ago on a Char Lynn unit. They are just not up to snuff on their assembly procedure. Yes, it has to be timed in the gerotor end. Most likely they didn't need to take it that far apart in the first place to reseal both ends. Lot of intricate parts in that hand pump that are better left alone unless absolutely necessary for a reseal. Live and learn I say.

 

[dirtyoily]

They are IDIOTS.

And not hydraulically inclined.

The gerotor is connected to the valve with a shaft that's splined at both ends.

The parts have to be "timed".

Which obviously they DIDN'T.

The procedure is in the shop manual.

The shop manual is at the shop, 25 miles away, so I can't give you specific timing details tonight.

Speaking of steering pumps! My 1486 has suddenly begun spewing hydraulic fluid up and out the steering wheel. What has gone bad to cause this and how easy is it to repair?

 

[caterpillar guy]

The seals for the top should be able to be fixed without removing the hand pump .Just the steering wheel and then turn the shaft with the wheel on just enough to turn it without it being stuck. This should push the seal up out of the housing so it can be replaced with the new one. Not a bad job on the 66 series and should be very much like that. IF the hand pump is down in the dash then it may be a bit more involved to get at it.

 

[caterpillar guy]

As for the one resealed by a hydraulic shop they need to cover your cost to have it done right since it is not right, by them not paying attention to the timing on them. Will be more work for somebody to do it all over again. The reason I mention the timing on them when I reply to these .Some do need to be timed and some not so much. But most do.

 

[dirtyoily]

The seals for the top should be able to be fixed without removing the hand pump .Just the steering wheel and then turn the shaft with the wheel on just enough to turn it without it being stuck. This should push the seal up out of the housing so it can be replaced with the new one. Not a bad job on the 66 series and should be very much like that. IF the hand pump is down in the dash then it may be a bit more involved to get at it.

Thanks so much. I will report back if a cab makes it more of a job than an open station 66.

 

[used red MN]

The seals for the top should be able to be fixed without removing the hand pump .Just the steering wheel and then turn the shaft with the wheel on just enough to turn it without it being stuck. This should push the seal up out of the housing so it can be replaced with the new one. Not a bad job on the 66 series and should be very much like that. IF the hand pump is down in the dash then it may be a bit more involved to get at it.

Well Caterpillar Guy hit the high spots for sure. To clarify a bit, pull the wheel then the snap ring that holds the seal in. Set the wheel back on and turn it to push the seal out. Sometimes you have to give it a quick twist to get it to push out.

 

[used red MN]

As for the one resealed by a hydraulic shop they need to cover your cost to have it done right since it is not right

CG, that was in 2014. You should be able to tell this was a revived post when you see a reply by the Tractor Vet.

 

[caterpillar guy]

I don't always look down the replies before answering and didn't see TV's on there till you now mention it. And yes you are right on the older post. I do try to look at the date on them but sometimes I believe some of the posts are either enough alike or a question is asked about one that it brings it back up to the top again one of the things I don't like about this new change they have done now.