1520 problems UPDATE

[OregonAaron]

So, I have been having problems with my 1520's fuel system as I have posted about a few times. Today while getting everything back together again I fired it up and it ran good for a few min then it died. I had plenty of tools nearby so I started it again and it ran for a short time and started to die again but I was waiting with a screwdriver and I loosened the cover on the injection pump as I was advised to do by dieseltech and it ran just fine with the cover loose and fuel leaking out. I tightened the cover and it tried to die again. So, I assume by what I have been told that this is a sure sign that my injection pump is toast. So, what are my options? Seems like a new pump is around $1200- can I send out my pump for rebuild for a lower cost? How difficult is replacing this pump for a guy who is not a diesel mechanic? I have done plenty of mechanical work on gas vehicles and rebuilt engines and spent years as a machinist/welder so I have some skills. This is the stayndyne injection pump.

 

[Dieseltech]

You don't need a new injection pump, yours can be repaired. The pump timing marks are under the cover you loosened for the test, with the cover off turn engine by hand to
align the marks after the fuel stops running out. Remove/replace the pump after needed lines and hardware are removed. E-mail is open on Classic view if you have more
questions.

 

[OregonAaron]

I will definitely email you, probably tomorrow. These injection pumps are a mystery to me and I know not to mess with them unless a guy knows what he is doing. Can this repair be done by me or will it need to be repaired by a pump tech?

 

[wore out]

It is very likely you have internal I.P. issues the (originally clear plastic) governor damper ring gets hard and brittle and discolored from heat and fuel exposure and breaks up into little "coffee grounds" sized and colored chunks that plug the return discharge fitting/housing pressure regulator on the pump causing increased internal pressure that causes the pumping plungers not to be able to extend and take in a "charge" of fuel to inject, so the engine "dies".

If you noticed any coffee grounds-looking debris coming out with the fuel at the timing port that would confirm the problem, for sure.

On the other hand be aware that if the fuel return line from the I.P. and injectors to the fuel tank is restricted, plugged or smashed that will cause the same issue.

So NOT a bad idea to confirm the return line is "clear" before removing the I.P. for repairs.

 

[OregonAaron]

Email has been sent. Thank you.

 

[OregonAaron]

I will check this return line, thank you for the suggestion.

 

[Tx Jim]

With engine operating you should be able to see/hear fuel returning into tank when fuel cap has been removed

 

[OregonAaron]

I will check that out before I remove the pump. Sure would be nice if it was an easy fix.

 

[Jim.ME]

(quoted from post at 11:39:29 01/18/22) I will check that out before I remove the pump. Sure would be nice if it was an easy fix.

The line itself may be clear, but it doesn't hurt to check it. There is a check valve in the fitting the return line from the pump connects. When the ring comes apart, those little bits often plug the check valve. Don't knock the ball out of the check valve if that has happened, get the pump repaired.

 

[Dieseltech]

My E-mail is [email protected] as the YT E-mail may not be working, none has come through recently.

 

[OregonAaron]

Okay, I will send one your way in just a bit

 

[OregonAaron]

Emailed with dieseltech and my pump is going to him for repairs. From reading on this forum he comes highly recommended. Many thanks to him for helping a guy out!