1586 drawbar hole

[NY 986]

There are used ones on ebay for about 150-300. You can also buy them new, including at this site, for around the mid 300s-400.

I would tend to think good used ones are not difficult to find. Don't think it would be worth screwing around with the old one for 200-300 dollars especially if you have to hire the machine shop work done.

 

[farmersamm]

I do want to sleeve mine. What material should the sleeve be?

I was thinking this morning.......................

If you use any of the Loctite compounds, and have to remove a sleeve later on...........they require heat to break the bond. Around 400*. I don't do any heat treating, so I don't know at what temp you can ruin a temper, or change any other properties.

So, it's probably a press fit candidate. About .001 is fairly solid for an interference fit. Or more.....depends on your press.

The only stuff I ever work with is low/medium carbon steel. Stress Proof, and Fatigue Proof, being the highest tensile strength.........around 100Ksi.. The bonus being that it's easily machinable. I have no experience with the harder steels.

Then, you have to decide whether you have enough meat in the surrounding material to hold a sleeve. If it's terribly elongated, the hole will really have to be widened quite a bit to make it round.

I know it seems like we're overthinking this................but a lot of science goes into heat treated metals..........and we don't even know what the material is.

At the end of the day..........I'd probably go with what I'm familiar with(others might be familiar with the more exotic steels). Besides......if you go with a simple press fit, it's not a huge problem to replace the sleeve every so often as it wears.

 

[Jefd]

I have access to many types of tool steel. I found a piece of H13 that might work. I'll size it for .001" press fit, and may pin it with a roll pin from the side just for fun. I do appreciate all the info. and help!

 

[Ray,IN]

I could do that, but don’t I need the same distance as I have for running the PTO?

Yep, 14" usually.

 

[wore out]

"they require heat to break the bond. Around 400*"

TOTAL "horse puckey", while high-strength Loctite is tough it's still basically plastic and is no match for a press or a breaker bar (if used an a threaded fastener).

In either case, the stuff will let go and parts can be taken apart with mechanical force, and it's not tough enough to gall metal.

 

[caterpillar guy]

Mild steel will bend and not hold the load. I had a mild steel drawbar in my 806 when I got it and it would bend with any load like the disc or such on it so had to go with something else. My brother got something for dad when he had his press repair shop some 30 years ago. Not sure what it is but has never been a problem since. It might have been stress proof or something like that. I do know it is a bit shorter than the regular drawbar by s few inches .Still works fine with PTO equipment.

 

[showcrop]

I just filled in a little weld on the back side of the hole. It served the purpose.

 

[stevieb49829]

A side holding pin makes no sense at all. You are adding a weakening point on an already weakened reamed out hole. Ream it for a bushing, make the bushing a few thousandths too short and run a cool weld bead around the bushing to keep it in the hole. Grind it flush. That amount of weld heat will not take the strength out of the drawbar anymore than reaming out the hole 'till it's round. steve

 

[farmersamm]

"they require heat to break the bond. Around 400*"

TOTAL "horse puckey", while high-strength Loctite is tough it's still basically plastic and is no match for a press or a breaker bar (if used an a threaded fastener).

In either case, the stuff will let go and parts can be taken apart with mechanical force, and it's not tough enough to gall metal.

Won't disagree. Don't use thread locker, so I'm not familiar with it. And, luckily, the bearings pressed on with retaining compound haven't failed during the years I've been using retaining compound, so there's been no need for disassembly.

I guess I'm just a slave to manufacturers specs......................

https://datasheets.tdx.henkel.com/LOCTITE-609-en_GL.pdf

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

That sounds like how the guys on the CET Australia YouTube channel would do it... except... they would probably...

Mill the hole in the drawbar round.
Taper the edge of the milled hole to a point.
Create a plug to match the hole.
Bevel the edges of the plug to match the taper of the hole
Set up some automatic MIG gun thingy to weld about 600 passes from the root of the taper to the surface on each side
Grind and polish from 60 to 6000 grit
Twelve coats of primer and paint wet sanded from 600 to 6000 grit in between each one
Charge the customer a reasonable amount
Make up the rest of their cost on YouTube sponsorship...

Nah, he'd just line bore it using his Sir Meccanica WS2. Line bore it round, weld it back undersize, then line bore it to original spec.

No need to plug the hole. If you can get it round on a mill, just weld beads until it's undersize, and then mill it back round again. Same idea as line boring with the robot, but manual.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

I do want to sleeve mine. What material should the sleeve be?

You start welding on it, what material it is is really immaterial.

Most farmers repair their drawbars with whatever junk they can find floating around the shop.

 

[ss55]

I have access to many types of tool steel. I found a piece of H13 that might work. I'll size it for .001" press fit, and may pin it with a roll pin from the side just for fun. I do appreciate all the info. and help!

If the weldup is easy to machine it might be much softer than the original drawbar ( around HRc 40 ?). Then again a 40 to 50 year old tractor might not see another 5000 hour of heavy tillage work or hauling, so it might not matter.

At around $10 per pound H13 stock would be a very expensive drawbar. 4140 would be somewhat cheaper at around $3 per pound. Add in the cost to machine, heat treat and draw back down to 40 HRc and the $300 for a good use drawbar will seem cheap.