1586 spun bearings

[d9gdon]

My son and I got a 1586 International at a real good price because the engine was locked up in it. They had just spent a bunch of money on the rear end and they kept up maintenance on it.

We took it apart and found that it had spun rod bearings, more than likely from antifreeze getting into the oil somewhere since we found some when we drained the oil.

I'm splitting the tractor since the crank is toast. I've already bought a STD/STD crank from the local salvage place.

I know the engine is gonna have metal in it from the oil. I guess I need to clean out the oil filter housing along with new filters, the oil cooler will need flushed, the block will need cleaned, and what else? Can I disassemble the oil pump to clean it up for reuse?

The sleeves have almost no wear and the pistons look good. I think I'll go back with an engine kit. I'll have the crankshaft checked and rods resized.

Might as well completely disassemble the engine and take it in for a hot dip at the machinist...I don't think I can flush the oil passages in place, prolly not a good idea anyway.

What about the injection pump, I guess the drive gear is the only thing exposed to engine oil.

Have I got it all covered?

I've rebuilt several diesel engines including Deere, Mercedes truck engines, but mostly older Caterpillar engines.

I've still got to find out where the antifreeze got in the oil.

 

[ben brown]

well i say the water in the oil is from bad o-ring around the sleeve or very well could be from the engine oil cooler over last several years when i do a ih engine i just replace the engine oil cooler when i rebuild it. and the injection pump is lubed by the engine oil pump so it could have a had bad oil through it you may want to have it redone if you know how long it was getting water in the oil you might go with out a rebuild, but if your going to keep it i say have it rebuild

 

[Janicholson]

Your 5th statement is confusing. If you find the pistons and cylinder sleeves to be good, why put in a kit? I agree, a professional cleaning and oil gallery flush is needed. Be sure to have all gallery plugs replaced! Jim

 

[Dieseltech]

Look CLOSELY at the sleeves, they MAY have cavitation erosion pinholes causing the coolant into oil. I have a 1466 M100 injection pump apart now for the same coolant in
oil trouble, it's a mess inside...

 

[caterpillar guy]

I'd fill the empty block with water if in a heated building with a cardboard under the block. Or just watch it at the bottom of the sleeves to see if it leaks by the o-rings. If you could put about 10 PSI on just the engine with the water in it you would probably find your leak in a few minutes. You would need the pan off for this test. The oil cooler would normally put oil in the coolant since the oil pressure should be higher than the water pressure. At least it did on my semi when it went bad. I think I would pitch the oil pump. It may be good but in this case where you may not know anything about the reason for the spun bearings. Spun bearings are caused by a few things some of are to tight to the crank not enough oil pressure to keep them lubed,loose in the rod Rod not round.

 

[Mrfred54]

Going this far into the engine, don't cut any corners. Send injection pump and
injectors to reputable shop. Make sure you get suction tube for oil pump clean. Would
also send crank in to get checked coming from salvage yard.

 

[560Dennis]

Start over ,youre kidding yourself that prior work was done correctly or reusable. Measure everything.

Unless you want a Craigslist overhaul , put back together and paint with a rattle can .

 

[d9gdon]

(quoted from post at 21:50:35 03/14/23) Your 5th statement is confusing. If you find the pistons and cylinder sleeves to be good, why put in a kit? I agree, a professional cleaning and oil gallery flush is needed. Be sure to have all gallery plugs replaced! Jim

Well, I plan on cleaning them up and inspecting them for reuse but cavitation pinholes are a concern. I don't have the sleeves out yet. A kit may be cheaper than piecing the stuff that I need together.

 

[d9gdon]

Pretty sure the antifreeze in the oil caused the spun bearings, it was very creamy so they ran it that way for a while.

I'll see if I can find a leaking liner seal before I pull them. I pulled the oil pan already and the head's off.

It's been a year or more since we pulled the engine apart and we stopped when we found the spun bearings.

I'm working on splitting the tractor now though.

This post was edited by d9gdon on 03/15/2023 at 05:33 am.

 

[560Dennis]

Very good suggestions
Right with the oil pump .
https://www.batescorp.com/1802666c92-oil-pump-1-rotor.html

 

[d9gdon]

(quoted from post at 11:02:12 03/15/23) Very good suggestions
Right with the oil pump .
https://www.batescorp.com/1802666c92-oil-pump-1-rotor.html

Yep, prolly don't wanna cheap out on the heart of the engine without knowing the history.

 

[d9gdon]

(quoted from post at 08:04:44 03/15/23) Pretty sure the antifreeze in the oil caused the spun bearings, it was very creamy so they ran it that way for a while.

I'll see if I can find a leaking liner seal before I pull them. I pulled the oil pan already and the head's off.

It's been a year or more since we pulled the engine apart and we stopped when we found the spun bearings.

I'm working on splitting the tractor now though.

This post was edited by d9gdon on 03/15/2023 at 05:33 am.

Got it split finally after working on my splitting stands for better part of two days to adapt them to this row binder.

#5 liner o-rings leaking 26 drops per minute. That's a pretty good leak...

Pulling the accessories and going to pull the block and get it to the machine shop.

 

[d9gdon]

(quoted from post at 20:42:04 03/14/23) My son and I got a 1586 International at a real good price because the engine was locked up in it. They had just spent a bunch of money on the rear end and they kept up maintenance on it.

We took it apart and found that it had spun rod bearings, more than likely from antifreeze getting into the oil somewhere since we found some when we drained the oil.

I'm splitting the tractor since the crank is toast. I've already bought a STD/STD crank from the local salvage place.

I know the engine is gonna have metal in it from the oil. I guess I need to clean out the oil filter housing along with new filters, the oil cooler will need flushed, the block will need cleaned, and what else? Can I disassemble the oil pump to clean it up for reuse?

The sleeves have almost no wear and the pistons look good. I think I'll go back with an engine kit. I'll have the crankshaft checked and rods resized.

Might as well completely disassemble the engine and take it in for a hot dip at the machinist...I don't think I can flush the oil passages in place, prolly not a good idea anyway.

What about the injection pump, I guess the drive gear is the only thing exposed to engine oil.

Have I got it all covered?

I've rebuilt several diesel engines including Deere, Mercedes truck engines, but mostly older Caterpillar engines.

I've still got to find out where the antifreeze got in the oil.

Well, didn't take me long to figure out that you need to remove the suitcase weights when you pull the engine lol. That is not in the service manual either.