1610D head gasket replaced. Still cylinder pressure in coolant

[1610WA-HT]

I bought a reconditioned 1610D 2 years ago. It immediately blew a head gasket. Had bubbling water in the radiator fill neck. Tractor ran fine but would end up pressuring the radiator and catch can. Replaced the head gasket and put 200 hrs on the tractor. The other day I parked the tractor for a minute after some work and fired it back up. Started running rough. From idle to high revs it ran rough. Let it cool down and popped the radiator cap and had major bubbles and rusty water. No coolant in oil and no oil in coolant. Tore it down, cleaned head and engine deck. Checked it all with machines flat bar. Cylinders looked good. I had one out of 11 head bolts that looked like it got hot, the rest looked the same with oil on them. Put it all together and fired it up and it ran rough. Though it was fuel needing purged the fuel lines and didn’t fix it. Had cap off radiator the whole time and no major bubbles just turbulence from water pump. After a few minutes the motor did not smooth out and started getting big bubbles and rusty water come up at radiator. I’m so frustrated. Any suggestions? Can an issue in the block or internal crack in the head cause this? Anyone been here? I’m so disheartened . Thanks

 

[winston-HT]

Just asking, did you torque head to specified torque? It really doesn't sound like a cracked head since it runs for a period of time before starting the bubbling. Not sure the manual calls for it but I know some people retorque after running a short time. I have never done that and never had one leak after that short period. Overheating is the worst thing that can happen to these little engines. They just won't tolerate it very well. Is your cooling system in good condition, wondering where the rusty coolant came from?

 

[1610WA-HT]

<QUOTE author="winston"><s>

</s>Just asking, did you torque head to specified torque? It really doesn't sound like a cracked head since it runs for a period of time before starting the bubbling. Not sure the manual calls for it but I know some people retorque after running a short time. I have never done that and never had one leak after that short period. Overheating is the worst thing that can happen to these little engines. They just won't tolerate it very well. Is your cooling system in good condition, wondering where the rusty coolant came from?<e>

/e></QUOTE>

I only ran it for a few minutes and by then it was bubbling. It ran rough immediately and started bubbling within a few minutes. The coolant system in general doesn’t look good. I’ve flushed it a few times and it always taints the coolant brown. I’ve got a manual mechanical auto meter temp gauge threaded into the sensor port. It’s not been over heated with me. It actually runs pretty cool. I torqued the head bolts in the pattern and steps according to the manual up to 80lbs main bolts and 30 lbs for the three small support bolts. The cylinders looked clean and smooth. I had 1 main head bolt out of the 8 that looked different. It looked dry and hot. The others had oil on them.

 

[winston-HT]

For what it's worth, the 220/226 manual with basically the same engine specs out 22 ft lbs. on the assist bolts.

Just wondering if the one hot dry bolt could be cracked down in the block. No idea how you could check that. When you pull the head back off is there any visible evidence on the gasket of just where the leak was.