1816 b uniloader

spooky

Member
I have purchased a 1816 b and I know it has to be warmed up pretty good to operate correctly, that having been said ,I read that it take 10-40 motor oil. I would like change the hydraulic filter and hydraulic oil in the event that there might be something else in there. Is there a proper way to do this besides changing the filter and draining the tanks or do I have to drain lines and hydraulic motors and cylinders. My problem is that when I engage the belt tensioning lever it will almost kill the engine and take right off either forward or backward , there is such a small amount of movement in the levers that it is very hard to keep it from going in either direction or stop moving at all. I don't think I could get any work done with it like that. Any tips or help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks PS. and it moves very fast when only at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. You can't sneek up on anything the way it is.
 
I had to check the barn, make sure the one here was still here after reading that(that close to description).

Do you have a manual for it? If not find one, very helpful.
First what engine is in it? The original (possibly on last leg) 16hp Tecumseh or a replacement(ours has a 20hp Onan), Are you just jumping the engagement or are you easing into it(think like a clutch on a manual transmission).

The manual says only to drain the tanks and change the filter, my thoughts too. If you really want to tear the whole machine apart to go through the lines(and other stuff) then your on your own.

The other thing(creeping) could be out of adjustment linkage/neutral position. Manual says some creeping is fine.

Take it out back and pay with it to get use to it. That size of skidsteer is really useful.
 
Thanks Cory for your answer. Mine is a 16hp Tecumseh and as you stated it might be on its last leges. It does have some blow by and maybe even a fair amount. but starts right up and and never misses a lic.I played with it some yesterday and yes after ten minutes of running the engine and tryig to engage the belt tenion lever it would finally not kill the engine.And yes just fearthing the drive handels slightly and it jumps like a jack rabbit and off you at a good rate of speed then finding that little area in the handle where you can actually make it stop and just set the with out moving.I have ordered a new hydraulic filter and will change the oil, 10/40 is what people say to use so I will do that and see what happenes. Thank you for you info..now I need to find out how much oil to buy . Thanks again.
 
10/40 is right 15qts for just tanks and filter, 7 gallons for complete system, if I recall what the book said.

I was only wondering about the engine since every time the conversation comes up (about the "new" engine in ours) my brother makes the point of saying "that gutless Tecumseh". Heard from a few others that, that engine never was much in those machines.

Have fun with your new toy.
 
Thanks Cory for your info on the oil. So I will change oil and filter and play a little more. I also have an old bob cat 500 that I had pick up that needs work. Well I know you will say why didn't I buy something decent to use a little instead of a couple old ones, but here's the thing. I am 71 and retired at 65 and have keep from getting bored to death to have something to do thats why I buy old Sh%# that needs work. Thank you so very for your input !!!
 
I have 10w-30 engine oil in the hydraulics and it can be a little touchy getting it going in the cold. I've got the 20hp onan in it and I have to leave a little choke and rev it up to keep from killing it when I first pull the lever back to get the hydraulic pump going.
 
Thanks John for you input on the hydraulic oil, was wondering what would happen if a guy was to put a lighter grade oil like 10/20 or something like that just for the winter months ?
 
I've also got a 610 bobcat that I don't use near as much as the 1816b not near as user friendly for me. Anyway it uses dexron ATF in it's hydraulic system, all year long. It's a lot quicker getting the oil warmed up in the winter pushing snow. I've always wondered if ATF would work in the 1816 never been brave enough to change it.
 
I would also be temped to try ATF but I wonder how ATF would mix with the engine type oil that would be left in the lines and hydraulic motors. If I could find something on it or talk to some that could say if they mix or not I would be temped to try it !!
 
I got to thinking earlier today when I was away from the computer about the setup of the 1816b. I've had the hydraulic motors out of the bottom to put seals and O-rings in. They are the same motors that run the reel on the 200 series John Deere flex headers. I've ran 2 different Deere combines, 1 I used the regular deere hydraulic oil but in this case cheaper oil from a farm supply store would probably work and the other Deere combine uses 10 weight engine oil in it's hydraulic system, there again can be bought cheaper than deere and still be fine, both are heavier than ATF but lighter than 10w-30. Food for thought.
 
Well John the last we talked about oil and you were mentioning 10/30 I thought it over and decided you had a good point about using a grade lighter oil so as I was thinking about it I decided to go all the way down to 10 weight but when I went to the napa store to get the filter he thought I would be better off with multigrade oil for dfferent temperature or weather conditions so I went with 5/30. Kinda wish I would have stayed with the 10 weight idea. Well anyway It did make some difference in pulling the motor down when I engaged the belt tightener but not enough to write home about because the oil come rite from the store already warm and dumped in. What your thoughts on 5/30 verses 10 weight?? Thanks John.
 
Boy that's a tough 1. I think 10 weight would work fine in all temps but whether of not it'll help with winter functions over 5w-30 is the big question. Have you got a little 5w-30 left? You could pour it in a pan cold and get a quart of 10 weight and pour it in and see which 1 runs easier. Let me know if you switch to 10 I'm curious to know if it'll make the cold weather start easier and make the lift and dumping faster.
 
I think you have a good idea to experiment with #10 and 5/30. I will pour some of each in a pan at room temp and see how it pours and then leave it in the shed overnight so it is cold oil and see how each one pours cold. I might wait a day or two as it is 9 above right now and will be colder in the morning so think I will wait a day or two for that till it gets at least a little bit warmer. ps. My old a$$ don't get along with cold like it used to.!!! Thanks Iowa John
 
Hi again Iowa John, Well as luck would have it, things didn't work out so good. As said before I change oil in the engine and changed hydraulic oil and filter to 5/30. Warmed the engine up some put belt tentioner in gear for abut 5 minutes to warm up hydraulic system drove it around for a couple minutes in the shop. Came back couple days later about a 4 ft. or more puddle of oil underneath it...Never leaked a drop before.. oh crap! now what... blew seals in one of the motors or blew hose or something.It,s been blow zero for a few days now and to cold to monkey with it.
 
Hopefully it's a hose and not a motor, the motors take awhile to get out. You can take the cover off the battery and look in there and taking the seat off will help you too. Let me know what you find out, I'll help you where I can.
 
Thanks John, I appreciate you taking time out to talk with me. When it gets warmer I will tell you what I found. Thanks again ..Morris
 
Hi John, Well it got warmer today, almost 40 so it took a look at the 1816b. And SHAME, SHAME, on me !!! I did exactly what I have harped about to the boys. The 0-ring for the old filter was stuck up in there. Picked it out and the problem went away. I think what made it leak so much well I was gone for a couple days was that there might have been some pressure in the lines or some where and it just kept oozing out the leaky filter. So I ran it out of the shop and played with it for a while but as I mentioned before it is nearly I'm possible to make it stop moving, about a red hairs worth of moving the sticks and you may make it stop. As soon as I pull the belt on it will jump forward, backward, or sideways in either direction no matter where I think neutural might be on the levers. I don't park close anything because you will be going in an unknown direction by the time the belt tension lever is 3/4 engaged. If I could only get that problem of being so jumpy fixed I would be a happy camper. Sorry for making this so long but thought I would tell it like it is...Thanks for taking interest John !!
 
Mine is that way, I just start pulling the belt tightener back slowly to see which way it's going to go, then try to move the levers into a somewhat neutral position. Something I guess I've gotten used to. I, like you try to park it a little ways away from other things too, It works better when it's warmer. As far as keeping it in place when I stop I push the tightener lever forward and drop the bucket. PS, this is the loader my wife uses around the yard as a motorized wheelbarrow. ;-)
 
Same system I use for operating ours, engage slow and see what moves to stop. Ours gets parked in the barn in a nice little corner for it, not much room for creeping.

All you really can do to stop it completely is drop the bucket and maybe add a little pressure(weight off front wheels). If you get lucky it stays put even in "gear".
 
Thanks for the input Cory. Sounds like it will be a good idea you have for creeping, keeping some weight down on front wheels. Now if I can just get it quit take off like a jack rabbit and not knowing which direction it will be heading in it will be a great little machine. Thanks again.
 
I have an old bobcat 500 that I use to push snow around the yard with a much bigger bucket. The 1816 I want to use in the summer mostly like you said as a motorized wheelbarrow to move small amount of dirt around the dooryard to fill in little sink hole in the lawn and thing if that nature
 
Yesterday's Tractor Forums

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top