1850 Front crank pulley

rrlund

Well-known Member
I'm just hoping somebody knows, is the outer diameter where the main seal mates up to the pulley on an 1850 the same as it is on a White 2-105? They're splined the same and should fit the crank alright. The White has 3 belt grooves, but I don't think that'd matter.

The dampener went to pieces in the one on my 1850 yesterday. I talked to Joe at Maibach, he said they're awful hard to find. I looked at the parts book and the seals have a different number, but I don't know if the ID of the seal is the same or not.
 
There were a couple different models for the 1850 weren't there?

I think Dale manf. in Oregon used to do rebuilding but I think they're closed down now. Found another perkins thread where this place was recommended, but I have no experience (or rumors of) to be of any help: http://www.damperdoctor.com/

If I was in your shoes I'd try to go with the rebuilding option.... Are your splines still good?
 
Thanks for the link. I'll check them out if I don't come up with something. I'm just in for lunch. I hooked the 2-105 on to the picker right after it happened. I haven't had time to pull it off yet. That engine is out of a White 8700 combine. I remembered that I have the pulley off of that. I went and found it before I came in the house. There's a good chance of rain tonight so maybe I'll get time to pull it off there in the morning and see what we're working with.
 
I got it off this morning. The splines are stripped right out of it. The one from the combine had the same OD for the seal, but it's way shorter. I suspect that would be the case with the 2-105. The front motor mount on the 1850 sits out on the front cover and it has to be long enough to go back in there. If I can't find something, I might have to have a machine shop try to graft the two of them together.
 
Remind me, do any of the Massey or White 2-85/88/105/110 pulleys work?
I doubt it since the front cover is unique to the 1850. I think the tail would be too short on any of them. I just hard back from Mark Korves. He doesn't have one. I'm waiting to hear back from others.
 
I do believe it is.
Ya, it is. He said he has a quote out there on the whole engine. He said he'd let me know if the guy didn't take it. I told him that if he's doing a total replacement, if he'd ask him if he'd sell the pulley off the old one.
 
The wife just sent Justin a check. The other guy backed out on buying the whole engine. He said he'd put it on the "waiting for a check" pile. He said it was as nice as they get. When I widened my CL search, I found one in Iowa and another one in Minnesota. When the guy in Iowa messaged me back and said he said it, I asked him what he wanted for it and he hasn't messaged me back, so I don't know what's going on there. The other one in Minnesota never did message me back.
 
The wife just sent Justin a check. The other guy backed out on buying the whole engine. He said he'd put it on the "waiting for a check" pile. He said it was as nice as they get. When I widened my CL search, I found one in Iowa and another one in Minnesota. When the guy in Iowa messaged me back and said he said it, I asked him what he wanted for it and he hasn't messaged me back, so I don't know what's going on there. The other one in Minnesota never did message me back.

Nice. I hope it's exactly what you need. Even still, it may be worthwhile to have it rebuilt prior to putting it into service.
 
@rrlund not sure where you are but there is a fella out in Marne IA that is kinda an old school blacksmith welder machinist, it might be worth reaching to him and seeing if he could rebuild the trashed one since it seems to be a rather model specific part, I cant tell you his name or business name but I think you can google it. We had him cut some parts for us years ago on an old Buckeye 300 super D, trans parts if I remember right and they were internal splined
 
@rrlund not sure where you are but there is a fella out in Marne IA that is kinda an old school blacksmith welder machinist, it might be worth reaching to him and seeing if he could rebuild the trashed one since it seems to be a rather model specific part, I cant tell you his name or business name but I think you can google it. We had him cut some parts for us years ago on an old Buckeye 300 super D, trans parts if I remember right and they were internal splined
There's a machine shop here that grafted two U joints together for me. I had a good yoke but the center was different where it went on the shaft. CaseIH wanted $400 for it. He cut the yoke off and turned the center part down, then he bored the good yoke, inserted the other center and welded it together for $100. It was in the PTO shaft on the chopper and stood up to 135 horses. I thought I'd take both of these that I have, the one from the tractor with the bad splines and the one from a combine with good splines to see if he could do the same thing with that. I don't know if he'd have done that for what I paid for the one that Justin had or not.
 
never hurts to have a back up plan, I hang onto stuff sometimes thats getting harder to find even if it bad just in case, I know enough machinists and have some abilities myself that you never know
 
I'm just hoping somebody knows, is the outer diameter where the main seal mates up to the pulley on an 1850 the same as it is on a White 2-105? They're splined the same and should fit the crank alright. The White has 3 belt grooves, but I don't think that'd matter.

The dampener went to pieces in the one on my 1850 yesterday. I talked to Joe at Maibach, he said they're awful hard to find. I looked at the parts book and the seals have a different number, but I don't know if the ID of the seal is the same or not.
Here's two on combine motors that we have setting.
One is 8800. One is 8900
I think Jpaydirt on YouTube talks of a rebuilding service for balancers out west somewhere?
GG Wes
 

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So just how does this work exactly? I got that pulley from Justin Meyer, put it on and at idle, it has just a slight noticable wobble. I ground feed today and when it's wide open, no wobble at all. It's as straight as an arrow. It's not just the big weight on the front, you can see between the V pulley and the motor mount that the pulley has a little wobble.

Justin said it's as good as you'll ever find, said he had to use a little persuasion to get it off. When I put it back on, I couldn't tap it on, I had to draw it on with the bolt. You'd think speed might exacerbate the wobble, not take it away.

I took the nine bolts out of the old one and separated the two parts to see how they work, and that weight bolts right solid to the pulley, there can't be any movement there. I guess if it was the other way around and it was good until you speed up, I'd be more concerned. I just don't know how the whole thing works to make it do what it's doing.
 
Its probably still wobbling at the higher speed its just that as the frequency gets higher it gets to a point were you can not detect with the naked eye?
 
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