190XT lift link clevis

[NewHeart]

I'm trying to replace a frozen lift link on my '69. I've tried heating with a map torch, soaking w/P BBlaster, tapping all over with a hammer, etc, over and over everyday multiple times for over 2 weeks, and can't get it to so much as budge using a 4ft cheater bar on my big pipe wrench. So I'm giving up and replacing it. However, all I can find online (from multiple sources) is a clevis that is 7-3/4" long. Mine are 11-3/4" long. Anyone know where I might find the proper clevis, or even an entire used adjustable link assembly that isn'tfrozen up?

 

[ramblineagle]

I'm trying to replace a frozen lift link on my '69. I've tried heating with a map torch, soaking w/P BBlaster, tapping all over with a hammer, etc, over and over everyday multiple times for over 2 weeks, and can't get it to so much as budge using a 4ft cheater bar on my big pipe wrench. So I'm giving up and replacing it. However, all I can find online (from multiple sources) is a clevis that is 7-3/4" long. Mine are 11-3/4" long. Anyone know where I might find the proper clevis, or even an entire used adjustable link assembly that isn'tfrozen up?

 

[ramblineagle]

You need to get the frozen part of the clevis red hot, may take a couple of times with cutting torch.

 

[NewHeart]

Sorry, I've been out of commission for awhile. I went in for my 1 year checkup for my heart transplant and they had some complications with the right/left heart catheterization procedure and I had to spend a little more time in the hospital than expected.

Are you meaning to literally use my cutting torch to heat it up? Or my rosebud on my oxy-acetylene rig? If you are talking about using the cutting torch, surely not with the cutting oxygen engaged. My cutting torch will cut up to 8" thick steel. Which also raises the question: have you actually done this before? I have read on other posts not to heat the clevis to red hot as you might ruin the temper on the threaded link rod. Not trying to be a jerk, just would like some clarification.

 

[m16ty]

Mapp gas isn't going to cut it. You need a oxy/acetylene torch to get it red hot.

You can use the cutting tip to heat a small area, just don't hit the oxygen lever while hot. Rosebud works even better. It's not tempered steel, you won't hurt it by heating it red hot. I think those links are actually forged steel. You probably weaken it a little by heating it red hot, but I've never had a issue. Lets face it though, any replacements you'll find are likely either stuck as bad as yours or the threads are about worn out. They aren't making these parts anymore, sometimes we just have to work with what we have.

Yes, I've done this many times. I don't even try a propane or Mapp gas torch, they are inadequate for things such as this. You've got to get it hot enough to swell the outer enough to provide some room for it to move and also to somewhat "burn" the rust out of the joint. Often this is at least dull red. Even if you happen to get it hot enough with Mapp gas, it takes so long to get it hot a whole lot of heat has transferred to the inner part and swelled it too.

 

[Bob Bancroft]

Mapp gas isn't going to cut it. You need a oxy/acetylene torch to get it red hot.

You can use the cutting tip to heat a small area, just don't hit the oxygen lever while hot. Rosebud works even better. It's not tempered steel, you won't hurt it by heating it red hot. I think those links are actually forged steel. You probably weaken it a little by heating it red hot, but I've never had a issue. Lets face it though, any replacements you'll find are likely either stuck as bad as yours or the threads are about worn out. They aren't making these parts anymore, sometimes we just have to work with what we have.

Yes, I've done this many times. I don't even try a propane or Mapp gas torch, they are inadequate for things such as this. You've got to get it hot enough to swell the outer enough to provide some room for it to move and also to somewhat "burn" the rust out of the joint. Often this is at least dull red. Even if you happen to get it hot enough with Mapp gas, it takes so long to get it hot a whole lot of heat has transferred to the inner part and swelled it too.

I learned on oxy/acetylene. When I got my own outfit, they talked me into MAPP gas. I hated it. I didn't think I was ever going to get that tank used up! As soon as I did, I switched back over to acetylene.
I was taught if using the cutting tip to heat, open the cutting tip knob wide open and set the oxygen with the main valve. Then if you do hit the handle, you won't get that same cutting blast.

 

[NewHeart]

Thanks for the replies. I have a Smiths WH200A torch with an ST603 rosebud heating tip running oxy-acetylene through industrial grade high flow Smiths & Union Carbide Purox regulators, do you gentlemen think that will do the trick? or do I need a bigger rosebud?

 

[m16ty]

Thanks for the replies. I have a Smiths WH200A torch with an ST603 rosebud heating tip running oxy-acetylene through industrial grade high flow Smiths & Union Carbide Purox regulators, do you gentlemen think that will do the trick? or do I need a bigger rosebud?

That should do it.

 

[NewHeart]

Thanks for all the replies.