1928 GP

[Qfyffe]

Hello! Are there reproduction gas tanks? Mine has a leak around the threads at the sediment bowl. Suppose I could braise it or have it welded

 

[DanielW]

I would think that a GP still has NPT threads on the sediment bowl? If so, I'd just buy a tank/scully flange and have it tig-welded on there (after removing the original flange - which is probably rivetted on there if it's like tanks of similar vintage). Or just weld/braze/solder around the original flange if it's still solid and just leaking around the seam.

If I remember right (a big 'if') there was a discussion on either this or another forum about repro tanks for the GP having issues due to (I think?) the lack of magneto pocket? Can't remember the details. But a $3 weld-in flange and a good welding shop should be able to fix you up quickly/cheaply. You might have to do some convincing to make sure they're comfortable welding on a fuel tank. But a couple good rinses with a good degreaser and then dish soap gets them suitable to weld. After it's all dry and welded, pour a cup or two of WD40 in there and swirl it around good to coat all surfaces: It will wick its way into any seams, displace any remaining moisture, and give it some rust protection.

Make sure you check for leaks after cleaning it out: Often on these old tanks after a good cleaning, some other leaks around different seams will be exposed once the accumulated gunkulence of decades is cleaned away. Any good welding shop should be able to patch any leaks up.

Nice shop and GP by the way!

 

[Mark-Ia]

K&K Tractor makes new tanks. You will need to send the fittings off your old tank so he can reinstall them on a new tank. $450.00 for a smooth bottom tank. If you want the indentation for the magneto, add $70.00.

 

[Brownie450]

Want to be careful with heat around that area. Most
tanks have had solder/ lead melted in the bottom to
eliminate leaks in the area around the outlet.
Jim

 

[NY 986]

A good discussion with some alternatives. I won't say that it is impossible to find a GP fuel tank but it has to be quite hard.

 

[Qfyffe]

I would think that a GP still has NPT threads on the sediment bowl? If so, I'd just buy a tank/scully flange and have it tig-welded on there (after removing the original flange - which is probably rivetted on there if it's like tanks of similar vintage). Or just weld/braze/solder around the original flange if it's still solid and just leaking around the seam.

If I remember right (a big 'if') there was a discussion on either this or another forum about repro tanks for the GP having issues due to (I think?) the lack of magneto pocket? Can't remember the details. But a $3 weld-in flange and a good welding shop should be able to fix you up quickly/cheaply. You might have to do some convincing to make sure they're comfortable welding on a fuel tank. But a couple good rinses with a good degreaser and then dish soap gets them suitable to weld. After it's all dry and welded, pour a cup or two of WD40 in there and swirl it around good to coat all surfaces: It will wick its way into any seams, displace any remaining moisture, and give it some rust protection.

Make sure you check for leaks after cleaning it out: Often on these old tanks after a good cleaning, some other leaks around different seams will be exposed once the accumulated gunkulence of decades is cleaned away. Any good welding shop should be able to patch any leaks up.

Nice shop and GP by the way!

View attachment 142994Ah ok! Thank you. Yeah it’s a new shop and I have a few toys in there. My father in laws collection I inherited. Got them all running when they didn’t. I work for a large paint company and have restored them! Got 3 more to do or just sell. Not sure yet. Don’t want my whole barn full of John Deere tractors. Lol thanks again. I may try to find the issue and braise it myself. It’s a very slow leak so it’s not bad. And the metal is all still very good…… for a 28

 

[RedMF40]

I would think that a GP still has NPT threads on the sediment bowl? If so, I'd just buy a tank/scully flange and have it tig-welded on there (after removing the original flange - which is probably rivetted on there if it's like tanks of similar vintage). Or just weld/braze/solder around the original flange if it's still solid and just leaking around the seam.

If I remember right (a big 'if') there was a discussion on either this or another forum about repro tanks for the GP having issues due to (I think?) the lack of magneto pocket? Can't remember the details. But a $3 weld-in flange and a good welding shop should be able to fix you up quickly/cheaply. You might have to do some convincing to make sure they're comfortable welding on a fuel tank. But a couple good rinses with a good degreaser and then dish soap gets them suitable to weld. After it's all dry and welded, pour a cup or two of WD40 in there and swirl it around good to coat all surfaces: It will wick its way into any seams, displace any remaining moisture, and give it some rust protection.

Make sure you check for leaks after cleaning it out: Often on these old tanks after a good cleaning, some other leaks around different seams will be exposed once the accumulated gunkulence of decades is cleaned away. Any good welding shop should be able to patch any leaks up.

Nice shop and GP by the way!

View attachment 142994

"gunkulence" hahahah

 

[rustred]

Hello! Are there reproduction gas tanks? Mine has a leak around the threads at the sediment bowl. Suppose I could braise it or have it welded

best is to take it to a rad shop , it will be hot tanked then repaired with solder and a guaranteed job.