1935 f-12

[xsurveyor]

I'm guessing dry , but would anyone know if an f-12 has wet or dry piston sleeves?
Getting to the end of a 5 year restoration but seeing possible (possible) water in the oil.
The head was magnafluxed during valve work with no cracks.

 

[DeltaSteve]

Pretty sure wet sleeves.Your repair manual will tell you.My book is out in the shop,I'm not going out into the blizzard to get it.LOL If you dont have one,get one!You will need it for torque specs,clearances and other useful and important info.You would hate to have it not run (or blow up) because something wasn't right because you 'winged it'.Get it from these guys,YT. Less than 40 bucks.

 

[Dave S.]

They are wet sleeves with o ring at bottom.

 

[rustred]

yes, they are wet. why did you not remove them in the first place. what happens is the o rings dry out and the o ring grooves get rusty, and the bore gets pitted. when assembling them you pretty much need to give the new o rings a smear of silicone gasket maker. that o ring is about 1/4 inch thick.

 

[gene bender]

You mean when you removed the head for refreshing you could not see the sleeves what kind of engine does it have

 

[DMartin9N-2N]

Good morning: I think the O.P. knew he had sleeves, but was asking if they were wet or dry.

Dennis M. in W. Tenn.

 

[xsurveyor]

Hi guys:
I really appreciate the feedback.
I have to tell you that I am not very knowledgeable on this stuff (I am a retired land surveyor).
This was a tractor my dad had back about 1956. Steel wheels all the way around.I managed to rescue it back in 2005 when we sold the farm.
A long story but it sat down in the pasture for 50 years. Engine in terrible shape,locked up,cracked block, etc. I found a good replacement for the engine in 2010. Decided it was on my bucket list to get it restored. It has been at 3 different places now getting worked on. I don't think the first two knew any more about mechanic work than I do. The head was taken off about 4 years ago under "mechanic" # 2. I took it to the machine shop for valves and magnaflux. Finally figured out #2 was pretty much worthless.
I admit the whole thing should have been rebuilt at the time but what did I know?
Took a couple more years to find #3.He really knows his stuff I think. When we were discussing the project Friday night he gave me a lesson on wet and dry sleeves while the engine was running. He is hoping we don't have to go into the block but you know how that is.
So I thought I would ask the experts. #3 might have the shop manual , I didn't ask. We were just talking about possible places for water to get in and he posed the topic of sleeves. Maybe I got ahead of him on the sleeve question. I'll ask about the shop manual and I really appreciate the feedback. It looks like the concensus is wet sleeves.Thanks again - Rich

 

[rustred]

i rebuilt my w-12 from complete tear down . rebuilt motor from bare block thats why i said what i said about those sleeves. reground the crank, resized the rods. replaced all brgs. head totally done. that thing starts with one mag click. 1/4 turn on crank.

 

[James Williams]

Wet sleves,Use a kit that fits a A,B or c.Ive redone a dozen of these.Ive pulled sleeves,replaced the O rings cleaned up the sleeves and never had any problem.And ive installed a new kit in some.There low RPM engines and very forgivable.The carb,timmind and fuel pumps are critical.Kits can be purchased through this forum and rice equ.Ive never turned a crank

 

[xsurveyor]

Hi James:
Thanks for your help also.
Mechanic #3 says sometimes the water surrounding the "wet" sleeve can eat through the metal
in spots and allow water in. He is used to dealing with diesel engines so I'm not sure if this would be true of
this 85 year old engine but will probably find out.
Thanks again
Rich

 

[xsurveyor]

By the way I've posted a before pic and about a month ago.
What would this unusual front wheel have been used for?
Rich

 

[rustred]

yes, he is correct. its called cavitation. whole different situation and cause. likely not in this case though, but its as i said. block bore where o ring sits and sleeves get pitted then you have a leak.

 

[Longknife]

Surveyor. Thats really not unusual to find an F12 with a single front steel wheel. IH had three options of steels wheels. The two (regular type steels, a single steel , and a wider single steel. It appears that you have the widest one offered and is probably hardest to find. At one time they were demanding a premium. You are missing the steel band though. These wide single wheels were used mostly in the south in softer soils. What may be more rare is the mud scraper attached to the yoke. I haver never seen one of those. If I can find my f 12 manual I may be able to give you more info,,,Ed

 

[Longknife]

I found my manual. IH offered the single steel wheels in 8 inch widths and 10 inch widths. I could not find the mud scraper in my manual.

 

[Longknife]

[url=https://ibb.co/kK4GQHd][img]https://i.ibb.co/K625F01/F-12-wheel.jpg[/img][/url]

 

[xsurveyor]

Hi Longknife (Ed);

I've got the parts manual but thank you for your reply.
I've got the skid ring although it is broken into two pieces.
We have replaced it anyway with a rubber tire band for traction when
loading on a trailer (see newer photo). That skid ring really tore things up
on wood. It makes sense that the wider wheel would be used in soft soil.
To my knowledge this tractor has never been out of central Illinois. Thanks.
Rich

 

[xsurveyor]

Hi again:

Sorry , I guess we didn't have the rubber mounted to the front wheel yet
when this photo was taken.