1935 John Deere B

Is there a way on a 1935 John Deere B to jet the carb? It seems to be running Rich. I cannot lean it down with just the idle screw. Thank You for Comments
 
Check your float level, 1/2" below the top of the carb bowl, and condition of the float. Immerse the float in warm water to check for holes allowing the float to sink in the carb allowing for over fueling.
 
If you can screw the idle screw in and it doesn't seem to make much difference, there is a decent chance that the idle circuit is blocked and it is just pulling fuel off the load side.
 
If you can screw the idle screw in and it doesn't seem to make much difference, there is a decent chance that the idle circuit is blocked and it is just pulling fuel off the load side.
I can screw in the idle jet without much change , I had the carb completely dismantled and cleaned everything? Thanks
 
Check your float level, 1/2" below the top of the carb bowl, and condition of the float. Immerse the float in warm water to check for holes allowing the float to sink in the carb allowing for over fueling.
I will need to check the float level. Thanks
 
Did you drill out the idle passages while you had it apart?
If you mean did I make sure all passages were clean ? Yes, removed all Brass plugs and cleaned all passages. I did not drill them Open more just found the drill that were the right size for the passage. Thanks
 
If you mean did I make sure all passages were clean ? Yes, removed all Brass plugs and cleaned all passages. I did not drill them Open more just found the drill that were the right size for the passage. Thanks
I hate to admit it but more than once after rebuilding a B carb and putting it on the tractor it didn't run as well as I thought it should. After a second time through of cleaning passages and blowing out with compressed air the issues were fixed. A big test is to get it idling well then screw the load needle all yhe way in. You should notice no difference. Then open the load up to about 3/4 turn.
 
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I hate to admit it but more than once after rebuilding a B carb and putting it on the tractor it didn't run as well as I thought it should. After a second time through of cleaning passages and blowing out with compressed air the issues were fixed. A big test is to get it idling well then screw the load needle all yhe way in. You should notice no difference. Then open the idle up to about 3/4 turn.
I'll echo UnstyledB's comments. I thought maybe it was just me, but I have had carbs as well I have had to have off more than once and found the idle passages with junk in them again after even a few minutes of run time. The one you have to remove the brass plug and stick the drill bit through across the bore of the carb to clean out seems like I always get gunk out of no matter how much I clean them.
 
Yup, Most people say they cleaned the carb, but miss some jets or don't actually get them clean. IF YOU CAN CLOSE THE ADJUSTING SCREWS AND IT DOESN'T MAKE ANY OR VERY LITTLE DIFFERENCE THERE IS A GOOD CHANCE THE CARB IS NOT CLEAN. Good Luck! John
 
Yup, Most people say they cleaned the carb, but miss some jets or don't actually get them clean. IF YOU CAN CLOSE THE ADJUSTING SCREWS AND IT DOESN'T MAKE ANY OR VERY LITTLE DIFFERENCE THERE IS A GOOD CHANCE THE CARB IS NOT CLEAN. Good Luck! John
On a DLTX10, at idle, you should be able to close the load screw completely to verify the idle circuit is functioning properly. Then open the load 3/4 of a turn and adjust more lean or more rich based on how the tractor performs when pulling a slight load or going up an incline. Always stop the tractor and set the brakes before dismounting to adjust the carb.
 

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