Thanks for the info !get it running then check the compression. checking it on a sitting engine is not real accurate but still tells you if you have enough to start it, or will show if valves are stuck with next to 0 zero compression. should have at least 100 psi. warm engine at cranking speed with 5 puff's per cylinder. readings should be within 10 percent difference. did you find the engine serial number ?
Did you read through the old thread I linked for you the other day? It has some pictures.Thanks for the info !
I am still in la-la land for the hunt of engine #. I would like an exact pic. of where it might be! Like a copy that shows #s
Thanks
Yes Sir I did, I am not the smartest tool in the crib on all this stuff.Did you read through the old thread I linked for you the other day? It has some pictures.
get it running then check the compression. checking it on a sitting engine is not real accurate but still tells you if you have enough to start it, or will show if valves are stuck with next to 0 zero compression. should have at least 100 psi. warm engine at cranking speed with 5 puff's per cylinder. readings should be within 10 percent difference. did you find the engine serial number ?
Yes Sir I did, I am not the smartest tool in the crib on all this stuff.
I have some good people by the farm that are into tractor stuff.
They not big on the numbers
Maybe if I show pic. They might look too.
Thank U
My 1938 B serial # 11284 has a starter & Magnetoirregularities
Mine was S/N 2527, with a crank and a Fairbanks FMJ mag. Whether bent stick or battery, the compression ratio was the same.View attachment 142395
Mine was S/N 2527, with a crank and a Fairbanks FMJ mag. Whether bent stick or battery, the compression ratio was the same.View attachment 142395
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