1947 2N project and question

M. Tolliver

New User
I am now the proud owner of a 1947 2N. It belonged to my great-grandpa, and my grandma checked with one of her brothers and give it to me.
I'd really like to get it running, and then make it look good, so nay advice/help would be helpful. Here's the down lo.

- Found it with carb (TSX241B) and starter off. Bought a used starter. Going to rebuild it and the carb.
- My grandpa said last time it was used it started knocking, so he made it to the barn as quickly as he could and shut it off and hasn't started it since.
- Has a fairly new distributor on it.
- Not locked up
-No visible cracks
- No water in the oil
-All valves move (no major issues seen - removes inspection plates)
- Manifold was on but loose, took off and found two acorns in the exhaust port of the block in cylinder #1.

My only issue it this:
the clutch pedal moves with pressure (normal), put i can freely turn the engine (I'm watching the flywheel) while the tractor is in gear, no matter what gear I put the main trans or the aux. trans.

Any help, thoughts, or advice?

Thanks and God bless!
 
I guess you mean that you can turn the engine by rocking the tractor wheels while in gear? If so, that would be a stuck clutch
 
With both transmissions in gear AND the PTO lever engaged, can your see the PTO shaft move when you spin the engine?
 
Tollie........you write......"My grandpa said last time it was used it started knocking".......and......"put i can freely turn the engine (I'm watching the flywheel) while the tractor is in gear"........surprizingly enuff, ONLY MOVING PARTS KNOCK........so yer dizzy and carb have 'nuttin' to do with the knocking. .......howsomevers...... it is not unknown for the clutch plate to "disintegrate". The ONLY CURE is a the dreaded "tractor split". ........Dell
 
well, I'm fixing the carb and starter because it couldn't run, knock or not, without them. I plan on getting these put on and maybe a test fire before I tear into it.
 
(quoted from post at 13:22:36 11/10/11) I plan on going back to the tractor Saturday, I'll check it out.
hat will help you determine whether the disconnect is at clutch (input to transmission) or possibly the connecting tube between differential & transmission or even the differential itself.
 
Just curious, what will the results indicate?
If the PTO does spin, then that would rule out the clutch as the culprit, right?
And if it doesn't spin, then it could be the clutch.
Am I right in all this?
 
Well, I made it to the tractor a day early, and here's the results:
I marked the PTO and began to turn the engine (backwards, because forwards I hit a hard spot)and the PTO turned with the engine. I tested it again in gear and i noticed I could seemingly "wind it up," meaning as i turned the crank, it got harder and when I let go, it kinda sprang back a little when in gear. I noticed it didn't do this in neutral. I did it again in gear and this time I noticed I couldn't put it in neutral until I had turned it back a little ways. Then I "wound it up," held it, made sure the shifter wouldn't go into neutral, and pressed the clutch...letting the tractor shift into neutral. Sounds like everything's in order!
 
I could seemingly "wind it up," meaning as i turned the crank, it got harder and when I let go, it kinda sprang back a little when in gear.

Probably just taking all the slack out of the gear train.

How are you turning the engine over? If by the fan, you can't put a lot of torque on it before the belt slips. So when you say "it hit a hard spot" that could be engine compression.

Your grandpa may have hucked a few teeth in the transmission or rear differential. That could be the "knocking" described earlier.

I'd proceed with getting it cranked in order to do more troubleshooting.
 
I'm using the fan to spin, but the hard spot is only if I turn it
clockwise. If I turn it the other way I can spin the fan many times
around, so I don't think It's compression.
 
the hard spot is only if I turn it clockwise

Sounds like something jambed in the transmission - Have you tried different gears to see if the hard spot is still there. I'd try reverse then the other gears.
 
Well now that the clutch is in order I'm concerned about the knock.
If I can remove the oil pan without splitting the tractor, I'll probably check out the knock before starting it. So that said, what does dropping the oil pan entail?
 
Well now that the clutch is in order I'm concerned about the knock. What does dropping the oil pan entail?

We can usually get to the problem with several posts - You state the problem, we provide some troubleshooting tips, you post back with the results and the pursuit ensues until you have it fixed. You're monkeying with the process and have gone straight to disassembly. :)

What were the results of turning the engine with the transmission in different gears?

You may consider doing some more diagnostics before jumping into pulling the oil pan - There could be something hay wire in the rear differential causing the hard spot you mentioned.

But if you want to "Easter egg" the problem - To drop the pan you must pull the hood, radiator, front axle. Not quite as simple as an auto because the block and oil pan are part of the tractors frame work.

Above all, please make sure the tractor is properly supported for your safety and that of the tractor.

One other tip, If you're going to get personal with these tractors, do yourself a huge favor by purchasing 3 very necessary books, Master Parts Catalog, Operators Manual, and Shop Service Manual. All three for around $55 and will help you tremendously as you delve into any repair project.
 
(quoted from post at 23:09:47 11/13/11) Well now that the clutch is in order I'm concerned about the knock.
If I can remove the oil pan without splitting the tractor, I'll probably check out the knock before starting it. So that said, what does dropping the oil pan entail?
'm not sure what brings you to draw the conclusion; "Well now that the clutch is in order I'm concerned about the knock. ", since there is nothing in that simple gear-train that is 'oneway'....bi-directional all the way around. ???
 
Taking it apart isn't about the clutch or hard spot, but about a knock that I wasn't concerned about before.

The hard spot only happens when in gear; when I hit the hard spot in gear and try to shift, I can't shift into neutral
until I turn it back the other way or press the clutch. If it's in neutral, then there isn't a hard spot.
 
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