Ken Christopherson
Well-known Member
Well everyone... It seems I always pick the "basket cases" to work on. I'm beginning to feel the squeeze that this old M is putting on me. I have been sitting in limbo lately, doing small things like cleaning parts and priming the small pieces that I can... Nothing really "video worthy". But I figured since I don't have a press and a system to ream the wrist pin bushings, I might as well stop at the machine shop where the head and block are to see if they can tackle the job.
Here is what I have learned during today's visit:
1) The block is too big with the cylinder head studs in place to fit in their hot tank/rotisserie. They made a short attempt at removing the studs, but after turning on two decided to stop before they break one to see what I wanted to do. They informed me that they can get them out, but would have to bill me at an hourly rate of $85/hour, and some may break thereby needing more machine work. Otherwise I could take the block home and clean it up as best I can (still needing to install new cam bearings, since I already bought them). My dilemma is what to do. I don't have any oxy/acet setup to heat the studs but am sure if I did, they would most likely come right out.
2) The head looks real good EXCEPT... There are two very minor cracks - which they do not seem at all worried about. One in the surface leading from a coolant passage hole, and the other between two valve seats in combustion chamber 1. They are going to magnaflux/pressure test it after they get the new seats installed to see where we are at. They stated that they were not at all worried about it... I guess we will see where it goes from here. I know it is expensive to weld/repair cast (at least not from what I have heard), and cylinder heads for these M's aren't cheap either. Let's hope for the best on this.
3) Received the new bearings for the water pump today. Still waiting on seals, packing, and my gasket material. That will probably be the next video I do - Water Pump Rebuild.
4) I was going to purchase a governor rebuild kit (found one for about $85 with governor throttle rod), but I think I will wait to figure out what happens with the machine shop - wouldn't hurt to tear into my governor to see what is worn as well before spending the money on a kit.
5) On the connecting rod/wrist pin bushing press out/in & reaming.. My machine shop does not have a large enough ream, but I did find one local to me that can do the job. I'll be bringing the rods/bushings/wrist pins to them tomorrow afternoon.
I guess I am looking for opinions here on what to do. Do I just pick the block up, use oven cleaner & a pressure washer to get it as clean as I can and put the cam bearings in myself?
OR:
Do I have the machine shop remove the studs, hot tank, and install the cam bearings for me (potentially breaking some of the studs which may happen to me as well).
I'm beginning to feel the stubbornness of this old girl. Progress is probably going to slow significantly now.. Just gotta keep taking those baby steps.
Here is what I have learned during today's visit:
1) The block is too big with the cylinder head studs in place to fit in their hot tank/rotisserie. They made a short attempt at removing the studs, but after turning on two decided to stop before they break one to see what I wanted to do. They informed me that they can get them out, but would have to bill me at an hourly rate of $85/hour, and some may break thereby needing more machine work. Otherwise I could take the block home and clean it up as best I can (still needing to install new cam bearings, since I already bought them). My dilemma is what to do. I don't have any oxy/acet setup to heat the studs but am sure if I did, they would most likely come right out.
2) The head looks real good EXCEPT... There are two very minor cracks - which they do not seem at all worried about. One in the surface leading from a coolant passage hole, and the other between two valve seats in combustion chamber 1. They are going to magnaflux/pressure test it after they get the new seats installed to see where we are at. They stated that they were not at all worried about it... I guess we will see where it goes from here. I know it is expensive to weld/repair cast (at least not from what I have heard), and cylinder heads for these M's aren't cheap either. Let's hope for the best on this.
3) Received the new bearings for the water pump today. Still waiting on seals, packing, and my gasket material. That will probably be the next video I do - Water Pump Rebuild.
4) I was going to purchase a governor rebuild kit (found one for about $85 with governor throttle rod), but I think I will wait to figure out what happens with the machine shop - wouldn't hurt to tear into my governor to see what is worn as well before spending the money on a kit.
5) On the connecting rod/wrist pin bushing press out/in & reaming.. My machine shop does not have a large enough ream, but I did find one local to me that can do the job. I'll be bringing the rods/bushings/wrist pins to them tomorrow afternoon.
I guess I am looking for opinions here on what to do. Do I just pick the block up, use oven cleaner & a pressure washer to get it as clean as I can and put the cam bearings in myself?
OR:
Do I have the machine shop remove the studs, hot tank, and install the cam bearings for me (potentially breaking some of the studs which may happen to me as well).
I'm beginning to feel the stubbornness of this old girl. Progress is probably going to slow significantly now.. Just gotta keep taking those baby steps.