1947 Ford 2N Engine side covers

[Dwd14329]

Can the side covers be removed without removing manifold or governor? Will I need replacement gaskets to re-install covers?

 

[old]

Yes they can be but it is not a real easy to do job

 

[Dwd14329]

(quoted from post at 13:53:47 12/27/23) Yes they can be but it is not a real easy to do job

Of course! Just like front mount distributer. Do I need to purchase gaskets?

 

[Jim.ME]

Yes

 

[Dwd14329]

(quoted from post at 18:57:18 12/27/23)
Yes

Thanks Jim

 

[old]

Yes

 

[Factotum]

If you're planning on checking the valve clearances, You need gaskets for the exhaust manifold, 2 gaskets for the valve covers and a gasket for the carb to intake flange. Since you have a 2N, the adjustment may be a bit more involved unless someone installed adjustable lifters at some point.

 

[Dwd14329]

(quoted from post at 05:05:49 12/28/23) If you're planning on checking the valve clearances, You need gaskets for the exhaust manifold, 2 gaskets for the valve covers and a gasket for the carb to intake flange. Since you have a 2N, the adjustment may be a bit more involved unless someone installed adjustable lifters at some point.

Factotum

I'm not sure what type of valves I have in it yet. (Rotating, non rotating or adjustable)? I hope to remove the covers without removing the manifold if possible. The manifold looks a little rough and I don't want to take a chance in breaking off bolts. My intentions are just to inspect the valves for operation at this time, bent valve stems, carbon build up, up and down motion as im bumping starter. Is it possible to bump starter to check valve operation? ? If i can do it that way without spraying oil all over the place, i would prefer to bump it rather than remove the dist and manually rotate the cam. My compression tester is due to be delivered today so I may not need to remove side covers. I will definitely get the these gaskets on hand before I remove the manifold. Thanks for the tip!

FYI, I'm not against removing or disassembling parts, its just a little tougher than normal, I have a Dearborn 19-23 frontloader installed and it's a pain to get into that front end, let alone any other side engine parts. Example; to remove dist, I have to remove altenator. I've done this 7 times within a couple days. Gets old so I'm trying to eliminate any steps I can. Make sense?

This post was edited by Dwd14329 on 12/28/2023 at 05:27 am.

 

[wore out]

IMHO, the chances you will find a unicorn in your broom closet are greater than the odds that you will find a bent valve stem in your flathead/sidevalve engine, ESPECIALLY since it is an engine that hasn't sat out in the weather unused for 40 years and was then forcibly cranked!

Of course, the odds are never ZERO!

Good Luck!

 

[Jim.ME]

You do not pull the distributor and rotate the cam. The cam gear is driven by the crankshaft gear. If you can rotate the cam without turning the crank you have larger problems than a misfire. You leave the distributor in place and rotate the entire engine by using a method to turn the crankshaft.

 

[Factotum]

I'm not saying it'll be impossible to check valve clearances without removing the exhaust manifold but it will make the job WAY less frustrating. If you can remove the loader until you get this sorted would be a good idea. When I checked and adjusted my lifters (which are the adjustable type) it was hard enough without any extra obstructions. Resealing the valve covers would be difficult at best with the exhaust manifold on the engine. I know you just want this fixed, but sometimes the long road is the faster way to a better repair. Good luck

 

[Dwd14329]

IMHO, the chances you will find a unicorn in your broom closet are greater than the odds that you will find a bent valve stem in your flathead/sidevalve engine, ESPECIALLY since it is an engine that hasn't sat out in the weather unused for 40 years and was then forcibly cranked!

Of course, the odds are never ZERO!

Good Luck!

Good to know! I will

IMHO, the chances you will find a unicorn in your broom closet are greater than the odds that you will find a bent valve stem in your flathead/sidevalve engine, ESPECIALLY since it is an engine that hasn't sat out in the weather unused for 40 years and was then forcibly cranked!

Of course, the odds are never ZERO!

Good Luck!

Good to know! I have to do the compression test this morning. Hopefully, I don't have to remove the side covers. At worst, if its just a sticking valve that can be fixed, I would be happy. Then I the summer, I can do a valve job.

 

[Dwd14329]

You do not pull the distributor and rotate the cam. The cam gear is driven by the crankshaft gear. If you can rotate the cam without turning the crank you have larger problems than a misfire. You leave the distributor in place and rotate the entire engine by using a method to turn the crankshaft.

Good deal! I know what not to do, now I have to find out what to do....the method.

 

[Dwd14329]

I'm not saying it'll be impossible to check valve clearances without removing the exhaust manifold but it will make the job WAY less frustrating. If you can remove the loader until you get this sorted would be a good idea. When I checked and adjusted my lifters (which are the adjustable type) it was hard enough without any extra obstructions. Resealing the valve covers would be difficult at best with the exhaust manifold on the engine. I know you just want this fixed, but sometimes the long road is the faster way to a better repair. Good luck

I hear ya! My delema is that I can't budge the loader unless the tractor hydraulics are running, let alone reposition the tractor. I agree, after reading several topics and tips, I need to remove exhaust manifold to inspect and go from their. Gotta be careful how I word things, I'm starting to upset a well known member. Me terminology and diagnosis is awkward compared to an experienced mechanic.

 

[Jim.ME]

Good deal! I know what not to do, now I have to find out what to do....the method.

Best to always turn the engine in the same direction it turns when running, which should be clockwise when standing in front of the tractor, counterclockwise if viewed when setting on the seat.

Some Methods to turn the engine: (remove the spark plugs in all methods to prevent any compression allowing easier turning)

If the fan belt is tight and the engine turns easy, sometimes you can turn them by pulling on the fan.

I am not sure there is an opening on your tractor where you can see the ring gear, if there is you can use that to pry on the ring gear.

You can pull the starter to access the ring gear, then pry on the ring gear.

You can jack one rear tire off the ground and with the transmission in high gear turn the tire that is off the ground.

If you can get on the shaft to the front pump, you might be able turn that.

You might be able to turn it from the PTO shaft , if you put the PTO in gear, with the transmission in neutral.

 

[Mad Farmer]

I adjusted the valves on my N when I had to replace the manifold. The best time to do that.

If you have adjustable lifters............you'll need the tappet holders.

It's a good time to clean the carb also.

Reusing the old gaskets is like reusing toilet paper.......

 

[Dwd14329]

I adjusted the valves on my N when I had to replace the manifold. The best time to do that.

If you have adjustable lifters............you'll need the tappet holders.

It's a good time to clean the carb also.

Reusing the old gaskets is like reusing toilet paper.......

Thanks Madfarmer! I will know which direction to take after compression test. Appreciate ya!

 

[Ed S.]

Maybe five or six winters ago before I retired and we moved south from our Middle West farm, I started having problems with sticking valves on my '50 front-mount. Really hard to start and would only run on two or three cylinders until it warmed up - would still "hit and miss" some even after warmed up.

I think I used brake cleaner to de-gum them (through the side covers), and someone on the board here suggested adding a little ATF to my gas (forget how much, it wasn't a lot). That seemed to help, and the problem was gone by Spring. I suspect it had something to do with the gasoline quality.

 

[Dwd14329]

Maybe five or six winters ago before I retired and we moved south from our Middle West farm, I started having problems with sticking valves on my '50 front-mount. Really hard to start and would only run on two or three cylinders until it warmed up - would still "hit and miss" some even after warmed up.

I think I used brake cleaner to de-gum them (through the side covers), and someone on the board here suggested adding a little ATF to my gas (forget how much, it wasn't a lot). That seemed to help, and the problem was gone by Spring. I suspect it had something to do with the gasoline quality.

Thank you for your reply. I've checked ignition circuit and fuel delivery so that's my last guess....sticking valves.

 

[Dwd14329]

Thank you for your reply. I've checked ignition circuit and fuel delivery so that's my last guess....sticking valves. Did you notice excessive fuel smell from exhaust when valves were sticking?

Maybe five or six winters ago before I retired and we moved south from our Middle West farm, I started having problems with sticking valves on my '50 front-mount. Really hard to start and would only run on two or three cylinders until it warmed up - would still "hit and miss" some even after warmed up.

I think I used brake cleaner to de-gum them (through the side covers), and someone on the board here suggested adding a little ATF to my gas (forget how much, it wasn't a lot). That seemed to help, and the problem was gone by Spring. I suspect it had something to do with the gasoline quality.