1948 DC4 questions

[BBQChef]

I have been searching but there doesn't seem to be any engine overhaul kits out there. I am most definitely in need of one.

I recently purchased this tractor with hopes of doing a restoration. I was told that the engine was free, and it did turn over using the hand crank, but very hard. After getting it home I pulled the plugs which made it turn over much easier, but still not real easy.

Upon checking the compression, cylinder 1-3 were 0. #4 was 35. This seriously worried me, so I pulled the lower covers off and had a look-see. There was oil in there, maybe 2 quarts tops. But no pieces or parts, and all pistons were attached to the crank and working as they should.

So i pulled the sheet metal off and made my way thru all the grime and other things that needed to come off so I could pull the valve cover off. There is where my problems lie. I have 5 valves that are stuck open, and the rest move hard and are sticky. Also I have three bent rods.

I pulled the head to get a look at the top of the pistons and cylinder walls. There is some carbon on the tops, but other than that they look fine. The walls look decent too. But I figure as I have it torn down I might as well overhaul it now rather than take a chance on anything.

So, after all that I can't seem to find what I need, any help would be appreciated.

 

[chuck machinist]

Do you have a realistic $ figure that you want to spend first? Restore to see her work ,or parade queen?.John Saeli 315-585-9826 in Geneva NY.
can help you with new parts, and Don Livingston 507-433-0073 of Preston Mn.can help you with used and new components.Be patient with them
returning your call. Have as much info ready for them ,so they can get you started. The DC will be a fun project. Best of luck CM

 

[LPakiz]

You could start by disassembling the head, clean up the valve stems and faces (an electric drill in your bench vise makes a poor mans lathe), straighten up the push rods (for now) as best you can (chuck them in the aforementioned drill) , check and clean the valve seats, set the valve clearance roughly, and reassemble it. You probably can even use the old head gasket, for now. A teaspoon of heavy oil on top of each piston to re-establish the ring sealing capabilities would help.
Crank it over and check compression now. If you have acceptable compression, you might find that an overhaul kit is not necessary, at least not right now.

 

[Pastor John]

You should purchase a manual which will direct you with a lot of maintenance procedures

Removing the head and rebuilding it ($500) a good start)

The two guys mentioned by y Chuck will have all that you need

Easy tractor to work on I should know

 

[BBQChef]

Thanks guys, I'll keep those guys in mind for sure.

Got the valves pulled today, all but 2 are rusted and the seats are rusted too. Being in the middle of nowhere, there are not any machine shops around that anyone knows about. Would a sandblasting help? I have access to one.

 

[wilson ind]

When I have the head off A case of D or S and L series Case engines I pull sleeves, and clean block of rust
and scale. Also replace O rings on bottom or sleeves. O rings are not a problem with me as I bought out M&W

O ring stock years ago. Wholesaled to both John Salia ( sorry John I can never rember how to spell your
name) and Don L. There are now the go to guys for o rings

 

[BBQChef]

Well, I got the valves all out and several I believe are rusted beyond repair.

I pulled the water pump out and the engine is full of rust flakes. I also managed to get the oil pan off and from down below, it looks good.

I have not pulled the pistons yet, but the measure 4" diameter. The top outter edge of the sleeve measures just shy of 4 3/4".

I called YT and they have no pistons or a source for any. They also said the pistons should be 3 7/8" and it should have a 5" stroke. Mine is 5 3/4".

I'm assuming at this point that someone in the past put bigger pistons in it, but maybe I'm wrong.

The inside of the sleeves actually looks good. No scratches or marks of any kind.

The valves are 1 3/4 X 5 3/4

I didn't want to break it all down, but after seeing what is inside after pulling the water pump, I have decided to split it and send the block out to have it cleaned up along with the head.

My delema now is finding pistons, rings, sleeves, bearings, valves and springs. I live in the U.P. Anyone have any sources for those parts?

 

[ShakerPrairie]

Chef you may be able to hone the sleeves and put it back together with new rings and orings.
A machine shop can mic your parts and tell you if they're still usable.
If you're not going to work the tractor hard for years that would probably work out. As far as the cylinders are concerned.
Do check the babbitt in the big end of the connecting rods for chunks that have broke loose or are fixing to. Then have the machine shop check them to see if they are wore beyond service manual specs.
The machine shop may not have the specs but several people here can post that info. I don't have it here with me right now.
There are a couple of forum members here that can supply you with connecting rods if you need any.

 

[BBQChef]

Thanks for the info. My biggest problem being in such a remote part of the state is there aren't any machine shops anywhere close.