1948 Ford 8N

[jhogg99]

I recently inherited a Ford 8N from my wife's grandfather. He says it's a 1948 but I haven't been able to confirm this because the SN is pretty worn down. Anyway, the push button starter hasn't worked for some time. He has been using an extra piece of wire to jump from one post on the solenoid to the other. I ordered a new push button and installed it today. Checked all the wires and connections, cleaned them off good, replaced ones that need replacing. When I pushed the button nothing happens. I've spent several hours today searching message boards for some kind of answer and have had no luck. I'm hoping someone on here might be able to offer some advice. How do I know if the button is bad (even though it's brand new)? Could the post on the solenoid where the button attaches be bad? Is there some other part of the wiring that I'm missing? I'm really at my wits end. I can still jump across the solenoid and it cranks right up. Thanks in advance.

 

[Mike Groom]

Try cleaning the contact pads with some emery cloth,sometimes they have a film and won't make contact.If you have a meter you can check them before and after you scuff them up.

 

[R Geiger]

If you short the small terminal on the solenoid to ground the solenoid should engage and the engine should crank over. small terminal should face towards the block.

 

[R Geiger]

(quoted from post at 17:28:35 11/03/20) I recently inherited a Ford 8N from my wife's grandfather. He says it's a 1948 but I haven't been able to confirm this because the SN is pretty worn down. Anyway, the push button starter hasn't worked for some time. He has been using an extra piece of wire to jump from one post on the solenoid to the other. I ordered a new push button and installed it today. Checked all the wires and connections, cleaned them off good, replaced ones that need replacing. When I pushed the button nothing happens. I've spent several hours today searching message boards for some kind of answer and have had no luck. I'm hoping someone on here might be able to offer some advice. How do I know if the button is bad (even though it's brand new)? Could the post on the solenoid where the button attaches be bad? Is there some other part of the wiring that I'm missing? I'm really at my wits end. I can still jump across the solenoid and it cranks right up. Thanks in advance.

Did you install the original style push button in the trans cover?

 

[jhogg99]

(reply to post at 19:07:15 11/03/20)

Yes, it's an original push button starter I actually ordered from here.

 

[HCooke]

What R Geiger says. Cold be wrong solenoid.

 

[tractorguy2]

The 8n solenoid has a insulated base. The push button grounds the solenoid. If you ground the terminal on either the push button or the solenoid it should start.
( It will also run over you if it's in gear)

Solenoids for a Ford pickup will not work on an 8n. It is common for an automotive parts house to give you the wrong solenoid. They don't know tractors.

 

[jhogg99]

This is the solenoid that's on the tractor right now. I don't know if it's the right kind or not. Thanks.

 

[jhogg99]

Picture

 

[jhogg99]

I guess I'm dumb but I can't get the picture to load. Geesh.

 

[jhogg99]

 

[warbaby]

First, you have to remove this solenoid from the starter and mount it to a good, solid metal surface that has a good ground. It will need a good ground to operate. Then see if that solenoid works (an audible "CLICK") when the small red wire on top in your picture is also grounded (if so, its the correct type for your tractor) or if it only works when "hot" power is supplied to this terminal (If that makes it click, you have the wrong type of solenoid).

If it is the correct type- the one that is triggered by applying a ground to the small terminal- then you can leave it where it is mounted and simply run a heavy cable from one large terminal to the battery (and also tap a power lead from here to your ignition key switch and through your ampere gauge to your generator/alternator- that yellow wire), and hook the other to the starter motor terminal via another long-as-needed insulated cable- no need to mount it (un-grounded and inoperative) on the starter!

 

[Royse]

That is not the correct solenoid for an 8N.
They mount to the starter and look differently.
Yes, you might make that one work, but you can see the screw holes where the correct one mounted.
Aftermarket ones have a plastic case, but mount the same.

 

[R Geiger]

Do you have 12 volts to the small terminal? If not might try connecting the wire from battery to the other terminal.

 

[Eman85]

First remove the wire from the new switch you installed. Hook a test light from the battery to that switch. If it's positive ground use the negative on the battery, it it's negative ground use the positive on the battery. When you push the button the test light should light. Now that's assuming the battery and it's connections are good. This will verify your switch is working properly.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

First, if it is a 8N it will have a 4-speed tranny and POSITION CONTROL. Otherwise the s/n is unimportant unless you have an early, early one that you plan to restore, not refurbish. Next, "... because the SN is pretty worn down..." Do you mean the starter motor solenoid? If so, how do you determine it is pretty worn down??? Or, do you mean the safety starter pushbutton switch located near the shifter base??? These are two totally different components with two totally different functions. I'm going to go out on a limb here and say I think you mean the safety starter pushbutton. You 'think' it is 'worn' but I'd bet your battery is weak or almost dead and it 'seems' worn because you push the button, crank, and crank, and crank trying to start it but it won't start. You most likely have other issues going on -battery first, wiring second. Are you operating with the OEM 6V/POS GRN electrical system or has it been switched out to 12V? Either way, if the setup isn't wired correctly, you will have starting issues. I highly suggest as newbie you do yourself a favor and get the ESSENTIAL MANUALS. They are the best investment you can make. DO NOT START buying any new parts and begin replacing them until you determine by true root cause problem solving the old part is truly defective. First, have the battery tested at a local alt shop, under their test machine. If only then it is tested defective, won't sustain a full charge under load, then invest in a new one. 6V = GRP 1 AG Type; 12V = GRP 25 or 35. Do Not then install the new one and try to start. Go thru the entire wiring system to verify before you install a new battery and apply power. Read the manuals. I&T FO-4 is a good one to start with. A 6V system will have a generator and a voltage regulator. If you have a 12 system, you will eliminate the VR, eliminate the generator and replace with an alternator. The OEM Manuals do not offer any 12V conversion sections, they simply weren't necessary and still aren't, but some folks think they are better. They have their pros but just because you can't figure out your 6V system and get it running doesn't mean switching to 12V will fix everything; that's Ford Tractor Myth #3. You need to get a copy of "WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR" as it has every correct wiring diagram, 6V and 12V, with pictures in it.


FORD 8N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:

Tim Daley(MI)

 

[jhogg99]

Thank you everybody for the advice. I've finally been able to work on it again. I ordered the "right" solenoid and installed this morning. The push button worked like a charm. Thanks again.

 

[Royse]

Glad to hear you got it running! Thanks for the follow up post.