1950 VA case

Just partially rebuilt the 143 case motor and am getting 10 to 12 lbs steady. Changed to new gauge,still the same. Rockers are getting plenty oil and no rattling so guess if it " aint broke,dont fix it" ? Any ideas?
 
That is not horrible for a tractor that age. What is a "partial rebuild"? Does it stay the same idling and operating RPM? Same cold and warm? FWIW my '59 611B runs at 19.
 
Since you are getting adequate oil to the top deck that will probably get you by if pressure is measured at op temp with load. I like to see a little more oil press especially if main & rod brgs were renewed.

Check that the inlet tube is still in your oil filter. Also you might want to check the oil pump relief valve.

Joe
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cvphoto43928.jpg
 
make sure the little oil tube is still in place inside the oil filter housing. My VAC has GOOD oil pressure but my 300 would always drop
after it got warmed up. I checked the oil filter housing and the tube must have gotten stuck in the filter and went with it into the trash at
some point in its life. The VAC still had it's tube. So, I got some brake line and made a new one for the 300 and now it holds better
pressure.
 
I had a similar problem after rebuilding the motor on my VAC-14 tractor. So, I removed the oil pump and installed some new parts in a kit that I purchased from John Saeli. I'd suggest you contact him and purchase the kit for your tractor. It improved the oil pressure a great deal and likely saved my VAC.
 
I got some tubing from old refrigerator that fits
tight in the filter base.i leave a small hole at
top end and drill 2 real small holes just below
top of tube.they do seem to stay in the filter
too
 
IT was my understanding these Case motors are low pressure. That is why they come with a 30lb guage. Your pressure
seems to be close to normal. As far as that tube in the filter goes. I bought 2 tractors, both had low pressure,
both were missing the tube. Replaced it with a home made one and all is good.
 
(quoted from post at 01:00:48 12/08/19) Must have been typing at the same time Joe!

Hey connor9988 I do the same thing often. Takes me so long to type something, find, & download pics bound to step on other's post sooner rather than later.

Joe
 
My VA has carried the same psi since I got it in the 70's cold/hot, idle or wide open 10-12 psi depending on what gauge I tried I have at leas 2500 hours on it since I bought it but really I would say well over 3000 hrs,, engine never has been touched,, does not use a drop of oil,, other than a very small leak at the rear main,, and mine gets used and worked hard, I have never seen a VA series with 20 psi,, not saying there not some out there just never seen one here and I have owned a lot of them through the years,,
cnt
 
When I worked for Don L I made them out of car brake line, tight fit and drilled the small holes. Once we found one with a wooden dowel in
it. Dave K
 
When I worked for Don L I made them out of car brake line, tight fit and drilled the small holes. Once we found one with a wooden dowel in
it. Dave K
 
I have 3 VAC's and none of them ever had more than 13 lbs. oil pressure since I've owned them. Having said that, I don't think any of mine any longer have the tube in the oil filter. I think I'll try and make tubes on the next oil changes. Anyone want to fabricate some for sale? You could get rich selling them on eBay. :) Failing that, I believe I saw a thread here once with the specs to make one.
 
My 51 Vac runs at about 18 PSI.
That is perfect.
I just put a new 0-15 PSI gauge on it and it pegs the gauge at 15.
The old 2 cylinder JD tractors ran from 7 to 15 PSI.
I ran a Massey Harris 101 SR 6 cylinder on my sawmill for years and it ran 15 when cold and 7 when hot.
High volume, low pressure.
Anything above 10 PSI on your tractor is good.
You are good to go.
Richard in NW SC
 
Thnks to All of your ideas, and will surely look at some of the ideas, not sure why I didn't get a notice when you all replied thus being later for my response. Thnks again And Merry Christmas to all of you. Don
 
Runs like a top,very smooth. I did not change the mains,oil pump, lifters. Just didn't like the 10 to 12 lbs on the oil but am going to live with it, Thnks again
 
I took all your suggestions and made a tube with the specs and didn't make a lb difference. Did I do something wrong?[as a 4.5} wouldn't let filter go all the way down} Tube is 4 inches long,one 1/16 hole in top 4 1/16th diagonally.
 
I took all your suggestions and made a tube with the specs and didn't make a lb difference. Did I do something wrong?[as a 4.5} wouldn't let filter go all the way down} Tube is 4 inches long,one 1/16 hole in top 4 1/16th diagonally.
 
There are several different tubes used in these by-pass oil filters. By-pass oil filter systems are typically designed to recirculate 10-15% of oil pump output capacity directly back to the sump.

Two factory original filter tubes I have measured:

1. Tube O.D. 0.252", tube height above press socket 3-3/16", one hole at the tube top 0.061". This hole would be a restrictor in addition to the filter element restriction. This filter base is a typical configuration of VA & 300 series tractors I have worked on but not necessarily these exact dimensions.

2. Tube O.D. 0.25", tube height above press socket 3-3/4", 3 holes in upper end of the tube, top hole = 0.081", side holes 5/16" down from the top and 180 degs apart = 0.093" each. The total cross-sectional area of these 3 holes exceeds the ID of the tube indicating they are used only as directors and not as orifices or restrictors. The design is for the filter element to be the restriction.This filter housing was bought new from a Case dealer for my 1959 311B tractor but I have seen similar on Case VA's & an AC WD-45.

Some of these by-pass filter housings have an orifice in the base, not very common, wasn't on a Case tractor engine.

If the oil pump is up to capacity, the fact you haven't renewed the main & rod bearings is the most likely reason for the low oil pressure. However you state that there is sufficient oil to the rocket arms (which is the end point of the pressure oil feed) indicates the oil pressure is adequate provided the oil run off from the top deck going down the pushrod holes is sufficient to lubricate the mid and aft cam bearings (fwd cam brg is pressure lubed from a branch circuit).

If you really want to know if your oil filter is a factor in the current oil pressure, unbolt the filter housing from the block, make up a blind gasket, bolt the filter back up and run the engine. Alternately plug the tube socket with a golf tee or similar and run the engine. A standard Mason jar will screw on in place of the filter, it won't be oil tight at pressure and I wouldn't trust it to remain intact at any pressure build up.

The bottom line for me, considering you current oil pressure, is the top deck running gear and cam bearings lubrication.

Joe

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1. Tube height in this paragraph 3-3/16" is an error:

Correction

1. Tube O.D. 0.252", tube height above press socket 3-11/16", one hole at the tube top 0.061". This hole would be a restrictor in addition to the filter element restriction.
 
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