1951 8N 12 Volt Conversion - starter button

aquifer

New User
New member here, and new to the 8N world. I've been lurking and learning from the forum (thank you!) but this is my first post. I grew up on a farm, and restoring cars is a hobby that I enjoy, so I'm somewhat familiar with mechanical and electrical things, but I'm not an expert by any means.

I am helping a friend with a 12 volt conversion on a 1951 8N. The safety starter button was bypassed by a previous owner, and when we did the conversion, we also bypassed it. There is a starter button in the dash now. What we have now is a 12 volt, negative ground system instead of the original 6v positive ground. We installed a new 12 volt coil and new 12 volt lights. We ran all new wiring because the old wires were crispy and looked like a rat's nest. We cleaned the spark plugs, adjusted the gaps and adjusted the point gap.

We also had to install a new three post starter solenoid because the threads on the battery side were shot and the nut wouldn't get tight. The small post on the new solenoid is being supplied with positive 12 volts from the starter button, which is on the dash (not the original safety switch).

Everything works as it should and the tractor starts up easily. But I'm concerned that the safety starter switch is not being used. The safety switch is still in place by the shifter, but it is not wired in our new circuit. Instead, our aftermarket two pole key switch provides 12 volts to a starter button installed in the dash. The starter button then sends 12 volts to the solenoid when pressed, and the tractor starts fine.

I can't quite figure out what to do to put the safety switch back into the starting circuit. The old system was positive ground, so if we run our 12v positive wire to the safety switch and push the button, it's going to send the current to ground and bad things will happen.

Here is what I think we need to do, please feel free to correct me or confirm:

I think we need a 4 post solenoid. In my mind, a positive wire would run from the key switch to the small positive solenoid post. A ground wire would run from the other small solenoid post to the safety switch, so that when the safety switch is pressed, it would complete the negative circuit to ground, and the starter would spin. I know very little about solenoids, so I want to be sure I buy the right one, if such a thing exists for what we need to do. The starter itself is grounded to the engine block, so in my mind the small ground post would have to be isolated ONLY to the circuit inside the solenoid. I'm sure they make such a thing, but any guidance would help. Maybe there is a simpler way?

If you know of a specific link to the solenoid we need, please let me know. Thanks in advance!
 
Last edited:
New member here, and new to the 8N world. I've been lurking and learning from the forum (thank you!) but this is my first post. I grew up on a farm, and restoring cars is a hobby that I enjoy, so I'm somewhat familiar with mechanical and electrical things, but I'm not an expert by any means.

I am helping a friend with a 12 volt conversion on a 1951 8N. The safety starter button was bypassed by a previous owner, and when we did the conversion, we also bypassed it. There is a starter button in the dash now. What we have now is a 12 volt, negative ground system instead of the original 6v positive ground. We installed a new 12 volt coil and new 12 volt lights. We ran all new wiring because the old wires were crispy and looked like a rat's nest. We cleaned the spark plugs, adjusted the gaps and adjusted the point gap.

We also had to install a new three post starter solenoid because the threads on the battery side were shot and the nut wouldn't get tight. The small post on the new solenoid is being supplied with positive 12 volts from the starter button, which is on the dash (not the original safety switch).

Everything works as it should and the tractor starts up easily. But I'm concerned that the safety starter switch is not being used. The safety switch is still in place by the shifter, but it is not wired in our new circuit. Instead, our aftermarket two pole key switch provides 12 volts to a starter button installed in the dash. The starter button then sends 12 volts to the solenoid when pressed, and the tractor starts fine.

I can't quite figure out what to do to put the safety switch back into the starting circuit. The old system was positive ground, so if we run our 12v positive wire to the safety switch and push the button, it's going to send the current to ground and bad things will happen.

Here is what I think we need to do, please feel free to correct me or confirm:

I think we need a 4 post solenoid. In my mind, a positive wire would run from the key switch to the small positive solenoid post. A ground wire would run from the other small solenoid post to the safety switch, so that when the safety switch is pressed, it would complete the negative circuit to ground, and the starter would spin. I know very little about solenoids, so I want to be sure I buy the right one, if such a thing exists for what we need to do. The starter itself is grounded to the engine block, so in my mind the small ground post would have to be isolated ONLY to the circuit inside the solenoid. I'm sure they make such a thing, but any guidance would help. Maybe there is a simpler way?

If you know of a specific link to the solenoid we need, please let me know. Thanks in advance!
pF4UkLj.jpeg


Here you go!

Needs ignition switch to be "ON" and OEM starter button pressed to crank.
 
What you are thinking would work. But, if your going to get a new solenoid anyway, why not get the original 3 post one and wire the small post to the safety start button which supplies ground. The solenoid doesn't really care about polarity but you do have to wire the battery cable to the correct post.
Here is a link to that solenoid on this site.
Good Luck.
 
What you are thinking would work. But, if your going to get a new solenoid anyway, why not get the original 3 post one and wire the small post to the safety start button which supplies ground. The solenoid doesn't really care about polarity but you do have to wire the battery cable to the correct post.
Here is a link to that solenoid on this site.
Good Luck.
With the 4-terminal solenoid there's the added safety feature of no cranking without a key in the ignition switch and the switch turned on.
 
As Jim L says: The internal connection to the solenoid coil may be on the left lug or the right lug. The battery cable needs to be connected to the lug that is internally connected to the solenoid coil and thus to the small terminal that connects to the starter safety switch. If the battery cable is connected on the correct lug the battery voltage can be measured at the small solenoid terminal and at the starter safety switch terminal. When the safety starter switch is pressed the circuit is completed to ground causing the solenoid coil to close the solenoid switch and energize the starter side lug. Before installing the solenoid, test for continuity from each large lug and to the small wire terminal to verify you are connecting the battery cable to the correct lug.
 
As Jim L says: The internal connection to the solenoid coil may be on the left lug or the right lug. The battery cable needs to be connected to the lug that is internally connected to the solenoid coil and thus to the small terminal that connects to the starter safety switch. If the battery cable is connected on the correct lug the battery voltage can be measured at the small solenoid terminal and at the starter safety switch terminal. When the safety starter switch is pressed the circuit is completed to ground causing the solenoid coil to close the solenoid switch and energize the starter side lug. Before installing the solenoid, test for continuity from each large lug and to the small wire terminal to verify you are connecting the battery cable to the correct lug.

I think I understand how this would work, but wore out mentioned the added benefit of a 4 post solenoid being that the starter wouldn’t turn without the key being on. That’s what makes sense in my head, so I think we’ll go with a 4 post solenoid.

Which brings up two follow up questions:

1. Google told me that there are two kinds of solenoids; intermittent and continuous. I understand why you’d never use an intermittent one in a continuous application. But can I use a continuous duty solenoid for the starter? I ask because steel bodied solenoids seem to all be of the continuous variety, and I want a steel one.

2. The existing switch is loose in the shifter cover. I need to remove the cover and secure it better. Is it as easy as it looks to remove the cover? My question would be about the shifting fork or whatever is on the end of the shift lever. Anything I need to be careful or watchful for when removing the cover?

Thanks for all the help and guidance!
 
I think I understand how this would work, but wore out mentioned the added benefit of a 4 post solenoid being that the starter wouldn’t turn without the key being on. That’s what makes sense in my head, so I think we’ll go with a 4 post solenoid.

Which brings up two follow up questions:

1. Google told me that there are two kinds of solenoids; intermittent and continuous. I understand why you’d never use an intermittent one in a continuous application. But can I use a continuous duty solenoid for the starter? I ask because steel bodied solenoids seem to all be of the continuous variety, and I want a steel one.

2. The existing switch is loose in the shifter cover. I need to remove the cover and secure it better. Is it as easy as it looks to remove the cover? My question would be about the shifting fork or whatever is on the end of the shift lever. Anything I need to be careful or watchful for when removing the cover?

Thanks for all the help and guidance!
#7 in drawing is a spring and ball.................don't let it fall into transmission when you remove top cover
 
I too switched to a 4 post insulated solenoid. I ran a wire from my "hot" terminal to one of the small posts and the other small post was connected to the safety starter switch. This way if desired, I can use the starter button to bump the engine with the ignition key off.
PXL_20240326_174042944.jpg
 
There may be another reason the safety shifter switch was bypassed. You will need to check it. You have a reasonably safe setup already as the push button start switch goes through the ignition switch. Just be sure you are always in the tractor seat when you try to start it. If you pull the key kids can't accidentally engage the starter. I have my Ferguson TE-20 wired this way.
 
There may be another reason the safety shifter switch was bypassed. You will need to check it. You have a reasonably safe setup already as the push button start switch goes through the ignition switch. Just be sure you are always in the tractor seat when you try to start it. If you pull the key kids can't accidentally engage the starter. I have my Ferguson TE-20 wired this way.

Yes, there may have been a problem with the switch, and bypassing it was the easiest solution at the time. I haven't even done a simple continuity test on it yet, but we'll check it out pretty thoroughly when we dig into it. Either way, I think we need to determine why the button is loose (wobbly) in the hole so that whatever is supposed to hold it tight doesn't fall down into the transmission. :)

Another follow up question:

JMOR said to be careful that the spring and ball doesn't fall down into the transmission. My question is, how eager is the spring and ball going to be to drop down in there? Are they teetering dangerously, so when we pull off the cover they will immediately fall? Or is it not quite that bad? We'll be careful, but exactly HOW careful do we need to be? I can't tell from the diagram what they're for or what's holding them in place.

Thanks again everyone!
 

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